Spray on floor insulation

[Joe Flanagan]

I know we've talked about this before but has anyone yet discovered a decent spray on floor cover like Rhino Liner that goes on thick like the original and doesn't cost an arm and a leg? Tim Adams was experimenting with some brush on stuff a while back. How did that work out, Tim?

[Plymouthy Adams]

Joe..my experience with the stuff is well beyond anything I hoped for..it has the factory look about it and is super cost effective...I did not do the entire floor as it was not required on the 54 but the area about the drivers footwell and a few other small spots I touched up..it looks fantastic..easy to work with might I ad...paint it as you wish...takes a could days to "firm up" but still pliable like the original was supposed to be..can dent it with your fingernail...there is no odor after it skins over either...self seals right nicely..

[Joe Flanagan]

OK you got me hooked. How do you get it, or make it, or whatever you did in your laboratory down there?

[Norm's Coupe]

I don't know what Tim used. However, you can use an emulsion roof coating as the insulating material. It is a water based asphalt coating and will dry/cure as Tim mentioned. Use to have a body shop in Fond du lac, WI that use to order from us all the time in the 70's and 80's that used it for undercoating and inside on the floors. It can be sprayed on with the right spray tip, or brushed on. If you want to spray it on, just contact a contractor that sprays the coating onto outside of new basement walls. They use the same material for that too.

You can buy the stuff at your friendly local hardware store in 1 gallon or 5 gallon containers. Coverage is usually about 1 1/2 to 2 gallons per square (100 square feet) on a roof. So.........you don't need much for a car.

[jimainnj]

Will it go on over surface rust ?

[Norm's Coupe]

Will it go on over surface rust ?

Just scrape or brush off the loose stuff and it should bond just fine.

[Joe Flanagan]

What's the brand name of this stuff?

[Norm's Coupe]

What's the brand name of this stuff?

We no longer sell roofing materials. But.......most of it's made by just a few companies today. If you buy it from the hardware store it could have many different names, including the store brand name. Or, you can buy it from a local roofing material supply house. Just tell them you are looking for a water based emulsion asphalt (generic name) roof coating/basement waterproofing wall coating.

Different places will carry different manufacturers brands. As for the store brands. It's hard for me to say who made it without looking at the can. I can usually tell by the address of the manufacturer, or the packaging/labeling. I can't tell you who made the off brand without seeing that.

However, the basic formula's are all the same, so any brand should do ya. That said, you will usually get the best formula's from a specialty roofing supply house.

[John Mulders]

Sorry to jump in but would this be for insulation purposes only?

My floor is really hot after a while (I also need to close the interior cover properly so hot air won't come in), especially on the passenger side (exhaust).

I like the idea of an insulation, would that also be a possibility for the roof?

Or would I run into problems once the headliner fabric is installed?

Thanks

John

[Rodney Bullock]

Hey John , I tried to use a product on the roof and it soiled my headliner. I thought that if I insulated the roof area I would not hear rain and hail. I use a material that is gluded to the roof now and it insulates. When I go to the junk yard I take it out of cars with good head liners and bring it home and clen it. I then glue it to the roof. You have seen this stuff before it's in all old cars. As far as insulating my antique floors after the POR-15 I use a heavy Jute under the carpets however the under floor gets a thick undercoating from the eastwood company. I am very careful because I have to remove my floor (P-9)when I work on my brakes,clutch,trans so access must be easy:D

[Bingster]

Okay, the Eastwood stuff I am interested in, Rodney. I was going to spray it on the underside of the front floor pan. Maybe the inner fender wells? Do you use their magic wand or from the can?

[Rodney Bullock]

The wand is new(wish I had one) I used the can. As you know there products are very pro level. It makes a novice look real good.

[Plymouthy Adams]

the insulation value of the flooring is that of the jute backing on the carpet..the sealer is used for purpose of preventing condensation during normal use of the vehicle..as for the roof insulation..I do not recommend any spray/trowel material there..all my cars had paper faced insualtion from the factory..

[John Mulders]

Thanks Rodney & Tim.

Totally different purpose here , no hail here

For me the main purpose would be temperature isolation and sound reduction.

There is a coating on the inside of the roof which seems pretty solid.

Perhaps better not to put anything on it and concentrate on the floor.

Thanks for the advice!

John

[PatS....]

Lizaed skin is supposed to be pretty good.

My buddy has the local Rhino dealership and after seeing this stuff in action in the multitude of non box liner uses, I will pay the freight and have the inside floor and inside roof of my Chrysler done in rhino, and if I take the body off the frame, I'll have the underside done too.

It really is amazing stuff, with a bazzilion uses.

[grey beard]

My own low budget recipe worked very well for me, and I'm pleased with the results. I first painted all the metal with ZeroRust, which I learned about from our own GTK right here on this forum. It really adheres well to rust and makes a nice surface to work with. I've used nearly two gallons of this stuff on my B1B, and it is much cheaper and user-friendly than POR. Cleans up with lacquer thinner, but the same thinner won't budge it when it is cured.

Next I used Peel 'n Sel roof valley butyl rubber from Lowes. Comes in several widh rolls with paper backing. Just cut it to size with a scissors and peel the backing off and stick it downl. Helps insulate and sound deadens the panels. I put this stuff everywhere in my cab, even inside the door skins. On overhead places, I used 3M's best spray adhesive in addition to the adhesive already on the butyl rubber.

Next I sued duct insulation, also from Lowes, of the sort that has plastic air bvubbles inside and foil on the outside., Just glued this to the sound deadener stuff.

Lastly I installed 1/2-inch thick foam carpet padding for sound and temp insulation. Everything is glued into place. Makes for a very quiet cab. On picku0s, the greatest difference in sound deadening came from the material I put on the back of the cab and roof. Amazing how quiet it is with the windows rolled up. Total cost for the entire job - less than one hundred bukkz. Go figure . . .

[Joe Flanagan]

I've used Zero Rust on my entire project. It's great stuff. I've had POR 15 lift off of surfaces so I won't use it anymore.

[PatS....]

I used Peel and Seal on the doors of my 88 Dodge Ram because they were so tinny.

A large hunk on the door skin and then I covered the door where the door panel is and also the back of the plastic door panel itself.

Made a world of difference...the doors now have a high quality sounding thud instead of a twang when the doors are closed and the truck is noticeably quieter.

There was an asphalt smell, especially if the sun was beating down on the door, but that went away after about a month.

Total cost for a 50 foot roll of the Peel and Seal was about $30 bucks and there is a whole whack of it left.

I won't use it in the Chrysler, though, because I have read in several places that the stuff will dry out after a few years and become like potato chips.

The Dodge Ram won't last that long so it doesn't matter, but I don't want to use something in the Chrysler that will be buried under upholstery and such that I am pretty sure will fail and need to be removed before it's time.

I think especially for the roof, which will get very hot over and over, the chances of the adhesive failing under the headliner is worrisome. The Rhino is more expensive but it won't come off for a very very long time if ever.

For the floor, the rhino will bond well enough to stop any rust from causing the classic floor rust these cars get, the moisture can't penetrate the rhino or get under IF the prep is done correctly.

[PatS....]

I've used Zero Rust on my entire project. It's great stuff. I've had POR 15 lift off of surfaces so I won't use it anymore.

Joe, did you use primer on the POR15?

On the Bronco before pic above, the grey on the surface is a special primer for the rhino that is used on older surfaces to guarantee bonding and prevent lift-off. They don't use primer on new truck boxes because they can get proper bonding by scuffing and then cleaning with acetone twice...that won't work on and older finish. (no, i don't work there, the stuff is just very fascinating in its toughness and versatility)

I wonder if the POR15 would bond better to older surfaces if primed??

[Plymouthy Adams]

POR15 comes with very specific instructions and is not recommended to be applied to good clean metal..used as its name implies (Paint Over Rust) and per their instructions only..thier special primers and thinners etc..get to be quite expensive system and I assure you their marketing results are based on those EXACT instructions..

[jimainnj]

What is Zero Rust and who makes it or sells it ? Jim

[Joe Flanagan]

I used it on a surface that had spotty rust throughout. There were some relatively free areas and some that had stable rust. I cleaned everything well and used their Metal Ready solution as instructed. I'm willing to admit I might have missed cleaning a little area or two and maybe that's where the peel off happened but I've also found areas that look like rust is forming beneath the POR15 and lifting it off. Anyway, I had heard some similar criticism of POR15 around that time and I decided to try Zero Rust just to see what would happen. I've never had a problem with that stuff and it's tough as nails. That's all I needed to know. Could be I did something wrong when applying the POR. But I have prepared all my surfaces the same way when I've used Zero Rust and never had a problem. You don't have to use any primer or metal prep and it's not anywhere near as difficult to work with.

[Joe Flanagan]

Jim,

Go to www.autobodystore.com. Click on "store" and go to the section on metal prep or rust treatment. They sell it in gallons, quarts, and aerosols. I believe either or both JC Whitney and Harbor Freight sell it too. Check out their web site. I don't have anything to do with them. I just have used the paint and have had good results. There have been times when I had to remove some of it because I discovered an area that needed some extra welding. I took a stiff wire brush to it and it does NOT want to come off. It's used like POR. You paint it directly over stable rust but it does not require any chemical first and you can paint clean metal with it too. I did my whole floor and the entire underside of the car in it.

[Rodney Bullock]

Hi Joe, I have used POR-15 for years and I have never had it lift up on me. I am sure that the early formulas was not as good as the later stuff. I have had my cars lined with it. I am told that if it is used on a surface that is in direct sun light It could cause problems. I have seen your rust inhibitor and it seems to work well for you. The rust billit product that I use now can be sanded , primed over and base coat/clear coated is the best I have used. The hawk is coated with it from top to bottom:D

[moparalltheway]

Spray on bed liner works great both inside and underside of car. You can tint it to any color you like. I like the spray on better than the brush.