blueskies Posted January 24, 2009 Report Posted January 24, 2009 Pete I think your interior looks a litte more comfy Just a little... Is that a tach where the rear view mirror was? Never seen one like that before... Pete Quote
igor@dcharged Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 Yesterday I drove about 2 hours to get to Fred's place in the south-western part of Holland. Great guy, he inspected the manifold the day before and he even painted it! But... when we took a look at my manifold we saw that some bolts had already snapped off. It would take us to much time to fix this problem within a day. So we filled in the crack with 'Gun Gum paste' for the time being. Fred and I agreed that we would bolt on the manifold later on in the year. I'll keep you updated. Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 Just a little...Is that a tach where the rear view mirror was? Never seen one like that before... Pete Looks like the tach is on the steering column. Not sure what is hanging in the windshield. Quote
Fireball Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 I checked my magazine article of High and Mighty. It is electric tach hanging in there, "Borrowed" from chryslers dyno room back then already. Shiftpoint is set to 5500 rpm redline at 6000. And to answer to myself in the question above, yeas it was Tom Hoover Quote
blueskies Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 Looks like the tach is on the steering column. Not sure what is hanging in the windshield. Not sure why they would run two tachometers, but the one hanging where the rear view mirror would be looks like it says RPMs on the face. Pete Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted January 25, 2009 Report Posted January 25, 2009 Igor.....happy it worked out and you will be able to have a replacement manifold. Just shows what some teamwork can do. :) Quote
igor@dcharged Posted January 26, 2009 Report Posted January 26, 2009 Igor.....happy it worked out and you will be able to have a replacementmanifold. Just shows what some teamwork can do. :) Thanks Bob! The support on this forum is great! Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Posted January 26, 2009 Don't be a stranger, Igor. Send a post when ever you feel like it....maybe some pictures of the car and from shows you attend. Always interesting to see old cars in other countries. Quote
Brendan D25 Posted January 27, 2009 Report Posted January 27, 2009 Charlie, good for you to bring this up on the forum. Again it shows what great people hang out here. Cheers, Brendan. Quote
igor@dcharged Posted January 29, 2009 Report Posted January 29, 2009 I decided to change the manifold myself, because I drive my car daily and I really need transport to my work. I was lucky: none of the bolts that attach the manifold to the engine snapped! Only the four bolts that keep the two manifolds together had snapped off. But by heating and gently twisting them I could get them off. As expected the manifold was broken in two !! Probably because the valve that controls the hot air intake collapsed. This provented cylinder 4,5,6 from releasing their heat. Yesterday I ordered gaskets, they will be in on tuesday. That gives me time to clean up some parts. Quote
greg g Posted January 30, 2009 Report Posted January 30, 2009 I would think the more likely cause was over tightening the bolts hoolding the maifolds together. This joint is supposed to be allowed to have some movement to provide for expansion and contraction of the two pieces. Whe they go back together, assemble the two pieces together with the 4 bolts in but loose. then put the manifolds on the engine and snug up the attaching nuts and bolts. These fasteners should only be tightened to 10 to 15 puond feet of torque as the whole assembly should also be allowed to move through heat cycles. When the manifolds are then snuggly attached to the block, then tighten the four bolts holding the maifolds together, again do not over tighten. The position of the heat riser does not restrict it that much it just redirects it through the cavity in the intake. After you run it through a couple heat cycles, then check and retighten any that may need attention. As long as thee are no leaks, it's tight enough. Quote
Normspeed Posted January 30, 2009 Report Posted January 30, 2009 Glad you had such good fortune with the studs and bolts. This shoudn't be needed, but if you have any doubt about the sealing surfaces on the manifolds, I highly recommend a light application of Permatex Red high temp gasket maker on the gaskets. Quote
igor@dcharged Posted January 31, 2009 Report Posted January 31, 2009 Thanks for the specifications and tips! A guy I ordered parts from told me to take out the valve in the exhaustmanifold and put a copper plate between the two manifolds. This way it stays shut. It's simular to a split manifold I guess. Anyone tried this before? Quote
blueskies Posted January 31, 2009 Report Posted January 31, 2009 Do you have the correct nuts and washers for the manifold? These help everything expand and contract without cracking the cast iron... Pete Quote
greg g Posted January 31, 2009 Report Posted January 31, 2009 I have my heat riser welded in place in the open position (horizontal) Has been this way for 8 years with no apparent problems. I don't do much cold weather driving, so it is't an issue. I am running a aftermarket intake manifold and have a sheep metal plate mounted on top of the gasket, bolted in place with counter sunk tapered head screws. Quote
igor@dcharged Posted January 31, 2009 Report Posted January 31, 2009 Do you have the correct nuts and washers for the manifold? These help everything expand and contract without cracking the cast iron...Pete Yes, got them, thanks! Quote
igor@dcharged Posted January 31, 2009 Report Posted January 31, 2009 I have my heat riser welded in place in the open position (horizontal) Has been this way for 8 years with no apparent problems. I don't do much cold weather driving, so it is't an issue. I am running a aftermarket intake manifold and have a sheep metal plate mounted on top of the gasket, bolted in place with counter sunk tapered head screws. Glad to hear you've had no problems with your setup. I think the way I'm going to fix it, is almost the same as you've discribed. Except I'm using the 4 bolts (that keeps the 2 manifolds together) to keep the copper plate in place. (I'm going to use copper instead of sheetmetal because it's more heat resistant.) Quote
greg g Posted January 31, 2009 Report Posted January 31, 2009 Should be good to go, again don't over tighten. the copper will act as a gasket also. If you are doing cold weather driving, you might want to add some heat to the intake manifold. This can be done by clamping or zip tying the heater hose tot he intake maifold. This will warm the manifold when the heater is on. Might give you some cold running stumbles till the engine heat gets up to normal but should provide good heat tot he menifold when warmed up. Quote
Olddaddy Posted January 31, 2009 Author Report Posted January 31, 2009 Thanks for the specifications and tips!A guy I ordered parts from told me to take out the valve in the exhaustmanifold and put a copper plate between the two manifolds. This way it stays shut. It's simular to a split manifold I guess. Anyone tried this before? I remove the plate from the exhaust manifold when I make it into a dual exhaust. The idea is to increase the flow rate of the exhaust gases by removing the restriction created by the plate. Strictly speaking it isn't duals, it's doubling the exhaust opening area with the second dump. I like it because it doesn't require a balance tube between exhausts like on true duals. However, in my case I usually run a two in/one out muffler of large diameter tube since I don't want all the extra plumbing under the car. The car flows better, sounds better, and for me that is enough. Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 31, 2009 Report Posted January 31, 2009 My plate is welded solid making my dual exhaust a true split. George Asche deal............. Quote
igor@dcharged Posted February 4, 2009 Report Posted February 4, 2009 Yesterday my gasketset arrived, so today I could finally start assembling the manifolds. I tightend (10 pound/feet) everything as described on this thread and used coppergrease on every bolt. After filling up the coolingsystem I could finally start the motor at 5.00 pm. It ran immediatly (left it running idle for about 20 minutes). Then I made my first testdrive; it has never been this quiet before!! So I suppose there was a small crack when I bought the car 8 years ago and it became bigger within the years and eventually cracked in half. The next couple of days I'll drive the Plymouth to my work (about 40 miles a day) after that I can check if the bolts need to be tightened again. Quote
greg g Posted February 4, 2009 Report Posted February 4, 2009 Glad it went together well. Was going to suggest you recheck tightness but you have it covered. So know that you can other noises, you will probably need to fis other stuff.... Quote
rearview Posted February 4, 2009 Report Posted February 4, 2009 Igor, Glad to hear it is running good. Remember, if you need the other manifold... just let me know. Bob Quote
Jim Yergin Posted February 4, 2009 Report Posted February 4, 2009 Igor, Are those ear protectors in the picture of the manifold? Was the car that loud? Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for sharing your pictures. Looks good. Jim Yergin Quote
DutchEdwin Posted February 4, 2009 Report Posted February 4, 2009 Hi Igor, In what part of the country are you in? Check your privat message, Edwin. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.