If it weren't for bad luck . . .

[Jim Yergin]

Here's a tip, don't ever buy fuel line hose from Rankin's hardware in Warrenton, Virginia. I bought some there that was marked fuel line and used it when I installed my new electric fuel pump. I ran it from the frame to the carb, bypassing the mechanical pump. Today when I went for a drive after a while the car started bucking and then died. Just like when the other two pumps failed. I could hear the electric pump running so I decided to check the carb. I removed the top cover and it was dry. Further investigation showed the inlet check valve into the carb was blocked with thin rubber material. Apparently my new fuel line couldn't tolerate gasoline and the insides were dissolving and blocking the valve. In an attempt to get to town to get new hose (I was closer to town than to home) I tried driving as far as I could (100 to 200 yards) before I would have to get out to clear the valve. I got the proper hose and installed it however I must have damaged the check valve because now it no longer shuts off the flow of gas and the car flooded and stalled. Ended up having the car towed home. Second time in two days. The tow truck driver mentioned that I seemed to be making a habit of this. No thanks.

Jim Yergin

[Frank Elder]

The last time I was stationed in Virginia it was dogs and sailors off the grass!

Back to the original post I bought a FUEL line from Big A Auto parts quite a while ago[dating] and found out it was a vaccum line instead!

It sure did'nt last very long, just enough gum up the Rochester I was running!

Frankie

[Frank Elder]

Country Song: Everyone dies famous in a small town. At least you have his NO#

[oldmopar]

The best thing would be to take off the top of the carb and take a look maybe some of the rubber crud is blocking the needle valve or the float

[Normspeed]

I agree, you can probably take the lid off the carb, remove and clean the needle and seat and solve the problem, unless bits of the crud got into the jets too. Jim, if you need to re-use the top gasket and don't want leaks, Hylomar Blue gasket sealer is the way to go. It's resistant to gasoline.

[Frank Elder]

Hylomar Blue, splain?

California Brand?

Purchase at?

Frankie?

[Normspeed]

It comes in a tube. For fuel related sealing this stuff is great. It stays a bit soft, is totally fuel resistant and a little goes a long way. I found it at Racer Parts Wholesale but I'm sure it's available at other shops, even motorcycle shops. Here's a link.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/valco.htm

Edit, I'm not selling this stuff but here's the description from the site that sells it: Hylomar Universal Blue is a polyester urethane based sealant that is non-setting and non-hardening even at high temperatures. The compound is resistant to all industrial fuels, oils, water, water/glycol and methanol mixtures. Hylomar Universal Blue is effective for the sealing of metal to metal and plastic to plastic surfaces. It is used by Formula One and NASCAR race teams. The temperature range is -60 degrees F to 480 degrees F. 75ml tube

[Jim Yergin]

Actually, that is how I determined that the inlet fitting was blocked. I took the top off the carb and saw that it was dry even though I could hear the pump was running. That is when I removed the inlet fitting and removed the blockage, repeatedly. Beyond the inlet fitting it is clean. The crud is all out of the fitting and I have the correct fuel line but I had to pop the check ball out of the fitting a number of times and I think I must have damaged it because now it will not seal unless I push it shut and hold it with my finger. I plan on replacing the fitting and seeing what happens. Before this the flow would shut off even with the electric fuel pump so I am guessing that the problem is not the fuel pump putting out too much pressure and overcoming the check ball.

Jim Yergin

[Don Coatney]

Jim;

Does this mean I will see your car when we meet for brunch in the morning? I think Rodney will be there too. I want a ride in your car.

[Jim Yergin]

Don,

Unfortunately the car will not be making the trip. I hope that doesn't keep you and Rodney away. As my 10 year old daughter said when I told her the woodie was undriveable right now, "well look on the bright side, at least we know we will make it home." However I do promise you a ride in the car, when is your next trip to the area?

Jim Yergin

[Don Coatney]

I will be here for a couple of weeks in December.

[Chester Brzostowski]

Don,

Unfortunately the car will not be making the trip. I hope that doesn't keep you and Rodney away. As my 10 year old daughter said when I told her the woodie was undriveable right now, "well look on the bright side, at least we know we will make it home." However I do promise you a ride in the car, when is your next trip to the area?

Jim Yergin

Jim,

Sorry to hear about your problems. On the bright side once you run out these bugs you will have a fine and reliable automobile? Years ago I refurbished an old boat from the early 50’s original Johnson engine. In the beginning we would breakdown a lot but once we worked the bugs out, the boat ran great for many years. The good news is that at least you were on dry land. Being stuck on the water can be a little troubling.

Keep at it and don’t get discouraged, it’s all part of deal.

No pain, no gain, Chet…

[Jim Yergin]

Thanks for the encouragement Chet. The fun I had driving it when it ran is a big incentive to keep working at getting the "bugs" out.

Jim Yergin

[Rodney Bullock]

Don't feel bad Jim, I am having carb problems as well. My Stude will not back into my drive way. It will not back up hill. It's funny I took the wife to the retirememt home show and it ran fine. I even drove it a couple of times after however now I have changed plugs thinking something was wrong with them(they were gapless) so I got some plugs with a shorter reach. I than drove it and after I got home the same thing. I took the top of the carb off and found that the floats were uneven. one side was closed and the other was open. I also found alot of stuff in one side.

As has been mentioned before it takes alot of patience to build cars and even more to get all the bugs out. What surprizeds me is the things you will learn while the desperation sets in, I have never seen the insides of an Edelbrock carb now I know it backwards and forwards.

So Jim:) keep up the good work as the next time Don comes down you and I both will race up and down RT29 so Don can get his speed thrilll:cool:

I think Don was surprized to see the Rockville show as he is always showing us hot rod pic, I wish I could have gotten away from the show I was at to meet up with you guy's however I will not miss the next time. I am so tired that I slept all day yesterday all theis running around is aging me:mad: December will be a good time as all that car crap will be over. I will be going to Leon's next week I might be able to give you a call, look out for me.

[Tim Frank]

Gapless plugs?

Do you mean they are surface fire type?

I have had outboard motors that used these, and know that they are used in aviation, but have never heard of using them in autos.

[De Soto Frank]

Hang in there, Jim !

Some vehicles seem to take more coaxing than others...

I've had some old jalopies that seem to go back on the road just fine, and other "nice cars" that balked and broke-down and really tried my patience !

The business about alcohol in modern fuels and its effects on rubber is a pain... we didn't start getting ethanated fuel around here until abotu a month ago... I'm waiting to see which vehicles don't like it.

I haven't any fuel-system problems with my '41 De Soto; that went back into service in 1998, and I think the only part of the fuel system I've touched involved replacing a leaking fuel-pump back in '98.

Now, my "pretty nice" '64 Valiant convertible, and my '60 Chrysler Windsor (with a freshly rebuilt engine) both gave me fits with "no-fuel" situations out on the road... (oh, they'd idle all day just fine, or putt around town okay, but get 'em out on a lonely piece of highway...)... in both cases, it turned-out that excessive rust in the gas tank blocked-up the fuel pick-up pipe, which has a 90-degree bend in it near the tank floor... and the nylon strainer screen was gone...

Had to drop the tanks on both cars, clean the "red dust" out, use a coat-hanger to clean-out the fuel tube (packed-tight with rust!), and so-on.

Etcetera... it took me more time spent on the side of the road than I cared for before I got those situations straightened-out... but that's been about three years ago, and I've had no such trouble with either car since then.

There's a lot of swell looking trailer-queens out there that only seem to manage to crawl from the trailer to the show-field and back; try and drive them on the road and they start overheating, "vapor-locking", whatever...

Take your time and chase those bugs... you'll wind-up with a reliable, fun car that you can actually drive !

Good luck !

De Soto Frank

[Jim Yergin]

Thanks Frank. I am committed to making it driveable and reliable. I have a new float valve on order and hope that it will solve the current problem. In the meantime I am installing seatbelts in the car. Now that proves I intend to get it back on the road.

Jim Yergin

[Rodney Bullock]

Gapless plugs?

Do you mean they are surface fire type?

I have had outboard motors that used these, and know that they are used in aviation, but have never heard of using them in autos.

I'm sorry Tim gapless means that the thingy that is supposed to be gapped is pressed down on the other thingy. I don't know how it happened but you know:) all is well now.