Barrow Ammco brake too?

[Alexander]

Hello guys

I bet I have exhausted everyone with my Brake project, but I am in the home stretch and wanted to thank everyone with all the help.

I have one last long shot question: Anyone on the forum willing to let me barrow their Ammco brake tool? I am located in Monroe NJ and could pick it up if preferred or pay for 2 way fright.

Thank you,

Alex

[blueskies]

PM sent...

Pete

[hucks 50]

wish i had one around here . thats where im at.

[greg g]

Check out the tech section of the Graham-Paige club wesite. There is a homemade deal there that is simple and effective. Wood att thread and some other hardware store stuff.

I think there is a less rustic version a forum member made and it might be posted on the main page ot this host site for this forum.

Both allow you to get the shoes mounted concentric to the drums with the the major adjusters, leaving you to fine tune with the minors after you get the drums back on.

[Alexander]

I have see these home made tools before, but I could never undersnad how you would transfer the drum diamerter to the shoes?

[greg g]

measure the drum diameter, add the static clearence from the maual, then divide by 2 and set the tool accordingly. Orset the tool to the D/2, and add the spec clearence.

Here is what the poster says about using the tool on his early Dodge.

With the Dodge jacked up I turned the top ADJUSTING NUTS until the shoe just touched. Then I took off the brake drum and swept the brakes shoes with the device using the distance at the top of the shoes as the radius. I had to loosen the bottom anchor bolts on each side and turned them individually until the device just touched all the way around. I then knew that the shoes were in the correct position because they were forming a perfect circle. I did this all the way around the car. Excellent brake pedal and excellent brakes. I assume that there may be other Dodge and Chrysler owners out there that may be interested in this idea. Please pass it along. I have made several extra devices if anyone might be interested. I was very lucky to have a drill press and a 3/4 inch spade drill bit. That size holes really fits snugly on my axles; the original nut holds the device on. Because my device was about 7/8" thick there was not room enough on the back axle shafts for the nut to be put on; I simply countersunk a hole so more threads were sticking out. Because the nut on the back was much larger than the front, I temporarily use a nut from one of the front wheels to hold the device on. I would not be too surprised if many of the other models and years of Dodges, Chryslers, etc. probably have that same 3/4" diameter measurement. Let me know what you think. You will probably will write back and say many others have thought of this idea. I just had never run into anyone that had.

[JIPJOBXX]

Did anyone say to use chalk in the final fit of the shoes? I used my cheap little plastic tubing idea and then checked to see how they fit by chalking the shoes and seeing how they fit to the drum. And as far as I'm concerned my brakes work great. I think there has been made a big mystery out here as to how set the shoes and it isn't that hard.

[BobT-47P15]

Not very scientific, but I took a piece of stiff wire, put a loop in one end

and a 90 degree angle on the other. You can tell with that if the brake

shoe is equal distance all around.

[Norm's Coupe]

Actually, switching to disc brakes solves the problem. Then they are self adjusting and stop faster and better.

But.........as mentioned there is no big mystery adjusting the original brakes, nor is that tool needed as I've said time and again. Just use the Cylman method (explained in tech section) and you don't need the tool, chalk or wire, etc. Just your hands, ears and a wrench. That's the way I adjusted mine before switching to disc brakes and had no problems. In fact the rears are still original and used no tool to adjust them either. And, when I pull the drums off the shoes were wearing evenly, even the fronts prior to the switch.

[Mark Haymond]

Here is another approach that has worked for me. I cut a clean straight screwdriver slot on the threaded end of the brake adjusting bolts. This way I can do the major adjustment with the drum on. I adjust the bolt from behind the backing plate until I can feel a slight dragging as I turn the drum and then I back off until there is no dragging. I don't have to take the drum off again.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lenscaptain/2913585826/

[Alexander]

Thanks,

these are all great ideas. Some one from the board was nice enough to lend me the the tool. I am excited to finally finish the brakes.