Bob Riding Posted September 7, 2008 Report Posted September 7, 2008 I am just starting the rebuild of a P29 engine for my '40 Plymouth wagon. Don C. had asked in a previous thread about who was going to do the rebuild. When Don visited me a couple of years ago he commented on the quality work that my builder had done. (His name is Tex Davis and he was in his mid-seventies a few years ago when he did my 230 for the '40 Dodge.) I figured that he'd retired by now, but I just spoke with Jerry Turner of Turner's Auto Wrecking http://www.turnersautowrecking.com/ and found out that Tex is now working under Turner's roof. Tex is the real deal. He started working at a Chrysler dealership in Kingsburg, CA the late 1940's and absolutely knows his stuff. He rebuilds all kinds of flatheads, and loves the Ford V-8s too. (As an example, if you look closely in the photo of the previous engine he did for me, you can see where he hardened the exhaust valves.) He will do just about anything you want, except he won't warranty the engine if you want him to install a radical cam, or if you push the tolerances too much i.e., overbore the cylinders or shave too much off the head, etc. Here is my engine from the 2004 rebuild. He quoted me a price of $1,400 to do a complete rebuild on the P29, including all new Egge parts. So...if you are in or near California (Fresno to be specific), and need it done right, Tex Davis is still working hard at keeping the flathead alive. For how much longer is anybody's guess... Bob Quote
Don Coatney Posted September 7, 2008 Report Posted September 7, 2008 Bob; I thought you may be going with this guy. Next trip I would like to meet him. His price is very much in line and his work looks terrific. Quote
Bob Riding Posted September 7, 2008 Author Report Posted September 7, 2008 When are you comin' out to sunny (and hot) California? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 7, 2008 Report Posted September 7, 2008 Reg..the seat are already hardened..it looks like he may have installed new seats and then staked them to be certain they stay in place.. Quote
Bob Riding Posted September 7, 2008 Author Report Posted September 7, 2008 Could be, I don't remember, but that makes sense. Thanks Bob Quote
Don Coatney Posted September 7, 2008 Report Posted September 7, 2008 I agree with the staking. I have not seen this done before? Anyone ever have a hardened valve seat pop out? There must be a reason an experianced flathead guy does this. Whey back in the 70's I once bought an early 50's dodge truck with a covered bed. This was a big truck bigger than a pickup but I dont recall the size. Had a single carbutetor and I dont know if it was a long or short block. This truck was being driven from California to the east coast. It severly burned an exhaust valve somewhere in Indiana and the owner limped it to Columbus, Ohio. He gave it to a U-Haul dealer in return for a deal on a rental truck. I bought the truck from the U-Haul dealer. I drove the truck home on 5 cylinders and pulled the head. The exhaust valve was burned so badly that it "ate" a chunk out of the engine block under the valve seat and the engine block was not repairable. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 7, 2008 Report Posted September 7, 2008 Don..outside of the standard machine shop...the removal of the seat would entail drilling the seat..then using a chisel crack it and remove it...then you can get either oversize seats and machine fit, heat the block..freeze the seat and insert..it will sielze like no one''s business...or else you do it backyard style..and maybe try to flash the block a bit..freeze the seat..position..drive seat in firmly..then stake it.. Quote
Don Coatney Posted September 7, 2008 Report Posted September 7, 2008 Don..outside of the standard machine shop...the removal of the seat would entail drilling the seat..then using a chisel crack it and remove it...then you can get either oversize seats and machine fit, heat the block..freeze the seat and insert..it will sielze like no one''s business...or else you do it backyard style..and maybe try to flash the block a bit..freeze the seat..position..drive seat in firmly..then stake it.. Tim; I understand the back yard style but I would think by staking as pictured a carbon build up hot spot is coming into play. That is why I ask if anyone has had a hardened seat pop out??? I have used the heat/dry ice method to install several "tight" fit pieces on my lifetime. If this procedure is done correctly the pieces are there to stay. Quote
Bob Riding Posted September 7, 2008 Author Report Posted September 7, 2008 I will ask Tex about it next month, when I take in the motor Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.