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Showing results for tags '1952'.
Found 8 results
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I picked up this 52 Windsor deluxe about 8 months ago. cars mostly complete but unfortunately was blinded by the pure awesomeness of the car that I overlooked some glaring issues Car smokes terrible to the point its embarrassing, transmission doesn't want to shift after being driven for more then 10 minutes. pervious owner had stated the brake lights stopped working when he added brake fluid turns out it was because the brake light bulbs were missing. I've done little work to the car just replaced the shocks and added headlight and brake light bulbs and bought a carpet kit and cowl vent seal. enough ranting onto the questions. I was quoted about 4.5k to rebuild the motor(265) complete top to bottom not sure if that's reasonable I cant seem to find rebuild kits to get a idea. the car has a lot of body roll when corning not sure if that's normal for a car of this era. was looking for a replacement gas tank as someone had previously "restored" the gas tank then drilled a whole in the top to run fuel line, seen several options but wasn't sure what one was a direct swap. I was spit balling the idea if the rebuild costs to much that i would just buy a donor mustang gt and take its guts and turn the Windsor into a cruiser. If anyone's done anything like that I would appreciate a reply.(any reply is appreciated)?
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So I've started working on my next project - a '52 Plymouth Suburban. It's in remarkable shape except for some small rust-through spots under the accelerator pedal. My plan is to use a working P20 218 I recently purchased for $300 (local Craigslist), mated to a TH200-4R automatic overdrive transmission (also Craigslist). The guy I bought the motor from had it set up that way on a '50 Plymouth wagon, using a Wilcap Adapter, which came with the engine, and said it ran great. He felt that he wanted more power, so he pulled it and replaced it with a SBC. The 200-4R is an overdrive tranny and from my measurements, I don't think I'll need to modify the firewall. I will need to add a support for the rear of the tranny, however. In order to get the most hp/torque out of the 218, I plan to run the 2bbl carb NiftyFifty recently posted about, with spilt exhaust and electronic ignition. I also plan to shave the head, and I've been told I could boost the compression ratio even more by using a thinner head gasket. In looking on ePay, and the usual vendors, thickness is rarely if ever listed. I haven't found a gasket reference chart to compare. How can I find a thinner gasket, and is it really worth the trouble?
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Three questions about shocks for my 1952 Plymouth Suburban: Does anyone know what aftermarket shocks one should use for this car. Related question, does anyone know if Suburban shocks are same as on Sedan? Finally, something i heard at the recent Plymouth meet in Michigan - a fellow 52 Suburban-owner said the the floaty nature of the car comes from the fact that the front shocks run from lower control arm to the upper, and that he made a bracket welded them in to the frame, and all is well. Anyone heard of this? Ned Foss, Albany NY..
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Hey, curious I f anyone knows the correct color of the primer for a 52 Dodge Wayfarer. It's hard to tell on my car. I think the inside of the trunk is a dark green color, is that the primer? Thank you all very much! Greg
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Howdy friends, I ordered a new fuel pump for my 1952 B3C, 218 flat head. The pump i received visually matches the Dodge parts catalogue for the 218 flat head that's in the truck, but it doesn't look anything like what I pulled. The old pump looks like it came out of a Dodge or Plymouth car (Roberts shows one that looks like the one I pulled and it's listed for cars). The new pump has the same mount pattern but the bowl on the old pump is inline with the pump and the rocker arm is inverted. I checked my block serial number and it looks correct for a 1952 B3 engine (T306*II0686*). I've posted a photo of the two side by side (the pump at left is the one I pulled), I want to be sure that the new pump will work without ruining something, but I'm also thinking about just ordering the other one from Roberts. If anyone could share any info they have, it would be much appreciated, Roland
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Well- don't look through the P15 D24 classifieds if you aren't willing to pull the trigger! I have a '51 Suburban project car, and didn't realize that i needed a parts car for it. Actually my '51 has floor and rocker tin-worm issues and this '51 (actually a '52 with a Cambridge passenger car front clip) is solid. A California car, last registered when Jimmy Carter was in the White House, is in remarkably good shape.The folks that owned it reupholstered the seat, not once, but twice. The original Bedford cord with blue piping is still intact, under the layers of 1960's chintz and vinyl. The engine turns over and the brakes have been re-done. I plan to install a modern motor (SBC or baby Hemi) AT, air and probably a MII clip. Those of you that know me are probably wondering how I could have strayed so far from stock, but actually, my '40 Plymouth woodie wagon has a number of modern upgrades (radials, disc brakes, turn signals, dual carbs, split exhaust, etc) but still retains it's somewhat vintage appearance, which is what i hope to achieve with the '52 Suburban, but with more modern running gear. Besides, my wife would only drive it if it had AT and A/C. i will keep you posted.
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Looking for help on my 1950 panel. Looking for body parts and hopefully pics of one with good floor braces and door jambs. Needs lots. Any and all help appreciated thanks in advance.
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Hey Guys, Im in the process of doing the diesel swap into my '52 B3b 1/2 ton and I've been fiddling with the front suspension. Its all torn down and i got new leaf springs from St. Louis Spring. Now im in the process of collecting the necessary parts to put it all back together when the time comes, king pins, shackles, tie rod ends, drag link, etc. This got the gears turning in the old brain... since the diesel is heavier (750 lbs dry) than the flat head 6, would i be better sourcing a 1 ton or 1-1/2 ton front axle and spindles? Also would it be a good idea to get a steering box from one of those trucks in order to provide greater mechanical advantage when turning? Im not familiar with the heavier spec trucks so any help would be greatly appreciated. I decided to make this a separate thread instead of in bedding it in my "1952 B3b with Cummins 4bt" so that people can search for it in the future easier and hopefully it will help them out. Thanks, -Chris
