Jim Gaspard

I want to keep my shaft resolution in the right string so I'm re-posting here.

I also have a B3B. I'm down to the frame for sandblasting and needed to remove the engine to get it away from all the grit. I had earlier tried to remove the pedal shaft from the bellhousing in the frame but couldn't get much leverage nor movement. Today I lifted the bellhousing out (w. engine/tranny attached). I then removed the tranny and was able to blast lubricant on shaft inside the bellhousing as well as outside. I was able to grab the shaft with a pipe wrench and twist it several 360 deg turns. The shaft finally twisted out. I have the pedals in a machine shop to punch in new bushings. Now I can replace the shaft with new 7/8" steel rod stock.

Thanks to all for walking me through the steps.

I also have a B3B. I'm down to the frame for sandblasting and needed to remove the engine to get it away from all the grit. I had earlier tried to remove the pedal shaft from the bellhousing in the frame but couldn't get much leverage nor movement. Today I lifted the bellhousing out (w. engine/tranny attached). I then removed the tranny and was able to blast lubricant on shaft inside the bellhousing as well as outside. I was able to grab the shaft with a pipe wrench and twist it several 360 deg turns. The shaft finally twisted out. I have the pedals in a machinge shop to punch in new bushings. Now I can repalce the shaft with new 7/8" steel rod stock.

Thanks to all for walking me through the steps.

Last week I lifted out the engine with bell housing and transmission attached. For me this is new territory. I've tried to follow this string but I am stumped on how to disconnect the bell housing from the engine. I removed the transmission easily, but after romoving all the bolts holding the bell housing to the engine they will not seperate more than an inch. I see see the two bolt guides, and underneath I can see the fly whell bolted to the engine shaft. Do I need to unbolt the nuts conecting the fly wheel and then separate them? Thanks

And what some of us would give for near-perfect front-end sheet metal and a straight bumper. Priceless! We look forward to following your project.

It just goes to show, the more interesting a subject line, the more interest from members. And thanks Merle for the photo posting graphic. I learned something new. The conflicting ID numbers on the frame are still a mystery.

Here's the Pilothouse link that breaks out some of the numbers.

http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/vin/model.htm

Front frame number definitely is a 1950 B2C 116 built in California. But front frame and rear frame numbers should be the same.

I put the shaft support back on for the photo. I do have fluid drive. The shaft still won't budge but now that I know it will slide out, I will be a little more persuasive this weekend. Where did you find your replacement shaft, or di you have it milled?

Thanks,

Can the brake and clutch pedla shaft be removed and easily. I have new bushings being pressed into the pedals and the shaft is a little worn. While everything is apart, I want to change the shaft too if its possible to remove. Has anyone been down that road?

Thanks for everyone's input. It was quick and easy to remove the mounts from the frame. As Dave predicted, it was not tension but dried up rubber that kept the shock from simply slipping off. I was afraid to use the BFH for fear of more damage. It's best to be patient and solicit the wisdom of the Forum.

Well I'm at this point. Does anyone have an update on availablilty of bushings for the brake and clutch pedals for a B3B 1/4 ton with Fluid Drive. I have mine removed because there was some slop. Both pedals have bushings similar to Merle and I would like to replace them to tighten rotation. Is this a machine shop job? Source of bushings? VPW has a kit but I'm not sure it fits. Sent them an e-mail tonight.

Thanks,

.....I am trying to remove my front shocks to sandblast. The two rear shocks came off easy. What's the secret to relieving the tension to remove the two front shocks from the mounts?

Check out this WSJ article, compliments of the truck side.

http://online.wsj.com/article_email/...TAxMDEwWj.html

Here's a great Wall Street Journal article that touches our love for our Pilothouse trucks. For me I learned to drive on a long desolate stretch of Galveston beach highway all to myself.

I haven't found that truck but my project B3B will fill the void.

http://online.wsj.com/article_email/SB120000007479681853-lMyQjAxMDI4MDEwMTAxMDEwWj.html

I have two B3B's and one B3C parts trucks. All have the serial number stamped on front frame as shown in this stream as well as behind the rear tire on frame. Light sanding with steel wool or emory paper will remove paint and light rust. Good luck. Someone must have switched your VIN plate.

Thanks for the information. I 've been looking for this cork gasket for some time. I glued my old brittle gasket back together with rubber glue but it will certainly desintegrate the next time I remove it. Does anyone have a souce for buying this gasket?

I just don't think I could get used to a 100 plus degree Christmas in December.

Dodge trucks pop up ocassionally locally in Dallas area. This one is in McKinney near Denton 30 minute suburb, so it may be the same disassembled truck.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/car/464267610.html

My pull was similar, wouldn't budge. There are numerous posts on this issue in P15-D24 Forum Tech Archives. Go here:

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=695

It's mostly sludge and crusty rust that is holding the sleeve in place. When I finally got mine to budge ever so slightly, I just kept working at it and it finally broke free. I could not believe all the crud in the tube and wonder how the water ever flowed through the engine. Good luck.

Jim in Dallas

Dodger Codger, go to this link for most Pilothouse B parts suppliers.

http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/pilothouse/phpage/links.html

For sure Bernbaum (www.oldmoparts.com) has thermostat and housing.

For replacement floorboards you may need to find a boneyard or parts truck.

How did you engrave the data onto the plate, jeweler or trophy shop. Cost?

I have two spare 15" rims that came off my B3B. Now that I have replacement 16", 5-bolt rims, I can part with 15's. Flying to NYC on 19th Oct and return on 22nd. Staying north of city in Westchester Cty. FOB to Westchester.

Jim

Perfect for roadtrips:

http://www.trulyvintagetrailers.citymax.com/page/page/4156146.htm

Jim

Eureka! Not many Dodge Pilothouses in Texas, at least as known members of the Pilothouse Forum. However this weekend I attended the annual Arlington/Dallas Swap Meet and came upon a trailered 1949 B1B from Tyler (good clean Easst Texas body) in good shape and appeared complete with all chrome grill intact. If interested, the seller is Pat (esteff_martinez_90210@yahoo.com).

Today, I came across this B3B on Dallas Craigslist.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/car/424783784.html

Check it out and make contact if interested.

Hoping to seed the Pilothouse population in Texas.

Jim

We're not sure if they are 15" or 16" rims at this point. The five bolt is confirmed. When we make exchange I will post photos, and we can probably check one as baggage as they're under 50 lbs (sans tires).

Jim

Thanks, I'll take rims and buy you a tank of gas. I have hubcaps for my two

B3B's but rims are in sad shape. If you bring mount too, I will be traveling to Westchester County New York next month and Mario can drive over from Connecticut and pick it up.

Jim in Dallas