Jim Gaspard

Norm, do you have the JC Whitney part number for your water pump. I have a late 1952 B3B 218 ci engine that suppssedly rebuilt in 2001 by previous owner. I am putting the truck back together and noticed that my water pump (states rebuilt on 2001 invoice) is for an external bypass engine, probably a 1950 B1B or 1951 B2B engine. I need an internal bypass water pump that has the additional port near water distribution tube opening.

Last year Merle posted a Napa part NWP55713 for an internal bypass water pump but I have looked on Napa Online and they do not have that unit in stock, and have substituted a TFW42554 water pump for $70. Can anyone confirm the NWP is no longer available in your markets, or additional comments on the TFW model.

Thanks, Jim in Dallas

Gotta make-do with what you have. I rolled my cab off the frame onto this lansdcape cart using several 4 inch X 5 foot wide pvc tubes. (I watch Discovery Channel. If the Egyptians could do it, I could do it) The cart has outriggers to prevent tipping. I can wheel the cab around my yard as needed with the effort of a wheelbarrow push.

Jim in Dallas

Try this thread....blast from the past.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=5398&highlight=remove+front+clip

Doesn't answer all your questions but it's a good start.

Jim in Dallas

I was rummaging through boxes and came upon this John Jerome peperback I bought on-line several years ago as I was starting my B3B restoration. Now, three years later, I can appreciate it even more. A hilarious story about restoring an old 1950 Dodge truck in New Hampshire, Lots of laughs, particularly for those of you dealing with extreme weather restoration. I believe I was first introduced to it through GTK's old format Pilothouse forum in 2005, and don't recall any mention since. My copy is up for grabs. I bet other used copies can be found on http://www.amazon.com/books-used-books-textbooks/b?ie=UTF8&node=283155. I believe it is out of print.

Jim in Dallas

Anyone have a source for these washers for our Pilothouses? Photo from Jim Shepard DEPTCA gallery. Thanks, Jim

This is a re-post from the Technical thread a couple of days ago. There wasn't much traffic on the thread so I thought I would post it here.

I pulled my water distribution tube in 2006 as part of cleaning up my flathead and a frame off resto. The engine is out of the truck and I'm finally starting to reassemble. The far end of the tube is very narrow and was full of rust and gunk from 55 years. I have a new tube to go back in but before I re-install I want to make sure I have done everything possible to clean out and maximize the water flow beyond the tube, short of tearing down the block. What is the best way to clean out the water circulation cavities in the block. Are the channels large or small, and will a strong water flush do the job, or do I need to insert a pressure nozzle or a wire brus or ???

Anyone been here?

Jim in Dallas

I pulled my water distribution tube in 2006 as part of cleaning up my flathead and a frame off resto. I'm finally starting to reassemble. The far end of the tube is very narrow and was full of rust and gunk from 55 years. I have a new tube to go back in but before I re-install I want to make sure I have done everything possible to maximize the water flow beyond the tube, short of tearing down the block. What is the best way to clean out the water circulation cavities in the block. Are the channels large or small, and will a water flush do the job, or do I need to insert a pressure nozzle or a wire brush.

Anyone been here?

Jim in Dallas

Santa Koch, thanks for the another great PilotHouse calendar. It's already on my office wall. What a good idea to include the business cards for DPETCA. I am always telling folks about our PilotHouse Forum but can't seem to get the address right. I'll be sure to carry these to swap meets. And the member list is a real bonus for all of us. I'm sure it took a lot of personal time and effort to pull these together and mail to all members, so thanks for taking the lead.

Jim in Dallas

Go to 'Visit DPETCA' link above or go here:

http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/wiring_harness/wiring.htm

for B2 to B4 PH trucks.

Jim in Dallas

Wasn't the late 1953 truck series with the new-styled bed fenders considered to be the next generation B4?

Jim in Dallas

I realized today my 2008 PilotHouse calendar has only 23 days left. I've asked Santa Koch to send me 2009 calendar for Christmas. I've been a good boy and just renewed my DPETCA membership to be on the safe side. My Pilot-House forum visits are one of the highlights of my day. Thanks GTK & Bob Koch.

Jim Gaspard in Dallas

I believe the 9 digit number starting with 113 refers to the engine number which sequences to the casting order and date.

The 883xxxxx eight-digit number refers to the vehicle number which today we associate as the VIN (stamped on frame), and the earlie posted table provides sequencing for either a Detroit or California (or Canadian) assembly.

Jim in Dallas

While I'm heading down the stock-only resto road, I also enjoy stories about rodding our trucks.....another soul saved from the crusher. Here's a super rodded B2B where he at least kept everything Mopar. The only thing stock is the body.

http://www.hotrodhotline.com/feature/rrow/2008/08giglio0509/

Jim in Dallas

I assume you are using a sawzall to cut your sheet metal, but what kind of welder are your using to get such clean weld lines. I guess practice makes perfect but seems like it would take a wire welder with some gas option to make these smooth welds. Please enlighten us novices. This has been a great show and tell.

Jim in Dallas

Sounds like he may have had an abusive past and just needs patience and some TLC. There is no better place than this forum to work out the issues. We've all been there at one time or another.

Jim in Dallas

Reg makes a good recommendation for Steele Rubber. There has been lots of threads about rubber suppliers for our PilotHouse trucks. There seems to be less angst (or none) about Steele as a source even though they are probably the priciest.

For rubber, or any other questions about your truck, the 'search' function in the masthead will give you hours and hours of great feedback history on a endless number of subjects.

Jim

I sent you an e-mail this morning to the e-mail listed on your profile. Just resent it. Let me know if you don't get it.

Jim

I look forward to installing on my truck. e-mail on the way. Jim

Ken, this may be a long drive but it appears sound and all there. Probably negotiable.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d148/JimGaspard/Dodge%20Truck%200406/100_0355.jpg

No rush. Thanks. I'm in year three of five year plan. Just need one, rear-most driver side or passenger side. Jim

They're riveted three places to frame. I used an air cutting wheel. It came off quickly.

Thanks.

Thanks Dale. On second look, the struts are not all the same. It appears the rearmost driver and passenger side struts are the one I need. It has two slots in the long arm versus three slots for the others. I assume the B1B fits B3B. Size is 16 1/2" long end and 7" short end. The outside tip width is 2 1/4" and the width at bend is 2 3/4".

You're correct for the B3B Fluid Drive, only the driver's side forward strut is angled. On the passenger's side, they are all the same non-angled type. I need one of the non-angled struts.

I have one support strut that is badly bent (there are 3 struts that hold up passenger's side running board). Does anyone have a parts truck that can spare one support strut? Dallas, Tx 75214 Thanks,

Dave, I'm ready to do my rims and want to be correct in original factory color. I thought getting the right powder coat yellow was almost impossible. How close did you get to the original stock color?