Bob Riding

Don, that is something that I need to do. I'm running dual Carters, using George Asche's linkage and dual intake/ exhaust on my 218. Right now I only have a single tailpipe, but will soon take it to a muffler shop to add the second. After that's done I want to do the testing and adjustment. Can you buy the tool new or do you have to find one on eBay, Craigslist, etc?

I just took a 1941 woodie body and attached it to a 1940 woodie frame- it fit perfectly. I also have a 1940 P10 parts car frame+ body that you can have if you pick it up- I'm near Fresno, CA

I checked my eBay history and the seller is elwickedo. Good luck. He was very fair with me.

It looks like it was made by REM...see pic for details. I like the flocking-it's very close to the original texture.

Also you might not want to use it in an overdrive?Almost sounds too good to true

Saw this on Jay Leno's Garage...seems too good to be true...ran some searches and only positive comments came back, mostly from diesel owners. Anyone try it in our vintage flatheads?http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/other/nano-lubrication/index.shtml

Thanks Jim...somehow I knew you'd support my plan!

Thanks. I hope to get the motor running, clean it up a bit and sell it with a new oak floor and all the wood from the original, so someone can use them for patterns.

I've been making good progress in the last month on what started out to be my 1940 Plymouth wagon project and now has turned into a '40-'41 wagon hybrid. A year ago January I found a '41 with great wood, but on a chassis that would need a ton of work.I wondered if it would fit the 1940 chassis/cowl that I had been working on since 2003. The differences between '40 and '41 wooden bodies (made by US Body and Forging Company) were minimal, so I did the frame measurements between the 2 years and asked around (thanks Jim Benjaminson!) and decided that the swap would work. I pulled the wood off the '41 and spent the summer applying 10 coats of varnish, hand sanding etc, between coats. I think it's looking pretty good. Right now I'm sorting out the mechanical and electrical systems, and the George Asche OD. I've upgraded some components - front disk brakes, dual master cylinder, OD, turn signals, Coker WW radials and halogen dash and headlights. I got the P20 engine from a guy in N. CA that runs his own auto repair shop and used to race the Mopar flathead 6s, so this one purrs like a kitten. I kept it 6 volt and as stock looking much as I could. I hope to put the wood to the metal in the spring. The hardest thing was choosing the color. They only came in Hampton Beige, with yellow brackets and trim - which I didn't care for. The color is the same green that Chevrolet used in the 1941-46 pickups and if you didn't specify a color- you got this green. It's all about the wood, and I think the green will enhance the look. I will be powder-coating the brackets and trim a dark bronze with just a hint of metal flake in it. The top will be black vinyl, the seats leather. I'll post more pictures as I go Bob Riding

I had the same problem with the horn honking continuously during my initial wiring of the '40 Plymouth wagon and couldn't figure out why. After checking and double checking everything, I found the problem...it turned out to be the screws I replaced that held the brass T to the steering wheel were too long and were making contact with the internal metal of the wheel, hence grounding it out and honking continuously. Once I ground down the points, the horn would only honk when I pushed the horn blowing ring. (quote name="greg g" post="356982" timestamp="1389626762"]horns blowing continuously (assuming the wiring is stock and intact) usually indicates an improper ground in the wire going up the steering column. Usually due to cracked or missing insulation connecting with the column assembly below the hron button At the bottom side of the steering box, the wire exits the column and there should be a butt connector to the wire that goes from there to the relay. unplug that connector and make a jumper wire to test the circuit. Connect a jumper wire tot he relay side of the connection, turn on the ignition and ground the other end of the wire, The horn should sound when grounded and shut off when the ground is disconnected. If that works, the fault is in the wire going up the column to the horn button. This wire can be replaced by tying a new wire to the end that goes into the steering box and then pulling out the old wire (which will feed the new one through) out of the column from the top with the horn button off I suppose you could also do it by connecting the new wire to the old one and pulling it through from the steering box end also. But DO NOT just pull the old wire out under any circumstances.

I'll join you guys - let me know what time...I work in Fresno.

Why not have it powder coated? Clovis Powdercoating ( in Fresno!) does a great job and it will last virtually forever.

So if this is such an improvement over the stock carb, why haven't more Mopar flathead fans done the switch?

Ah, George Asche's 1929 Desoto...never had the pleasure of meeting George in person or riding in his car. Sold me my overdrive and spent some time on the phone with him. He is a legend.

I am getting to the point where I may be putting the '40 wagon on the road soon, and ran across this post from Nov 2012 on the HAMB. I had never heard of Plymouth substituting the Chevy W1 Carter in 1947. The poster, Jon "carbking", seems pretty knowledgable on the subject. Can anyone validate his claims? He said Plymouth called it the Carter 574. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "Since you have already decided to put on a two-barrel, the following may be moot; but you may find it interesting. The really easy and inexpensive way to dramatically improve both power and economy on those old Plymouth 218's is to simply bolt on a Carter W-1 built for Chevrolet. Plymouth actually did this in 1947 when the plant producing the BBR carb went on strike. The Chevrolet carb with no other changes is good for 5~10 percent increase in horsepower, and 20~30 percent increase in fuel economy. The W-1 used as factory equipment by Plymouth was the Carter 574s. During this time period, Carter offered 3 different levels of one-barrel carburetor: (A) BBR series - cheap, worked, but never worked well ( W series - inbetween price, worked excellent, but manual choke and power circuit © WA series - most expensive, worked a tiny bit better than the W, with auto choke and vacuum power circuit Of course, simply bolting on a different one-barrel is not as "cool" as putting on duals, but if no other mods are made to the engine; it would probably function better. Jon."

Hi Lurker,Not sure what your appetite for restoration is, but I will soon be selling a 1940 Plymouth two-door sedan. The car interior is almost museum condition. Original seats, headliner, door panels, all in excellent condition. Not sure if the engine turns over-I'm using the car as a guide for restoration of my 1940 Plymouth wagon. Once that's completed (hopefully within the next six months), I will be looking to sell it at a reasonable price. Let me know if you want more details. Bob

In working to restore my '40 wagon to some semblance of stock, I tried very hard to peel off the maintenance sticker from the inside of the glovebox, with no luck! Seaplym has had various decals for sale on ebay over the years, at reasonable prices. I had never seen a the black and white '40 sticker before, and asked him about it. He said he would offer some soon and they are now posted for $ 7.50. Here is the item number 221207054604. It may be correct for other years- both my P9 and P10 had it. Seaplym is Neil Riddle, and he sells high quality Mopar stuff from Seattle.

Rodney, I can try my source again for the steering post pad.

I purchased what I thought was a replacement for my glove box in my 1940 Plymouth wagon. When it arrived it was obviously a different shape and allthough similar, in no way would fit. I contacted the eBay seller and explained what was going on. He was concerned and after sending him some measurements he determined that the factory did not make a correct 1940 Plymouth glove box and was obviously shipping the wrong shape and size. He offered to have them create a new correct glovebox if I had an old pattern to send back to the factory. I did and they will receive it this week. I am anticipating that they will want to know how many additional folks out there would want to purchase the correct one. I think I paid less than $30 and the construction is a heavy duty cardboard with the correct threaded fastener inserts and staples etc . Any interest you '40 guys?

I have an intact one on my P9. I'll see what I can do.

I used POR 15 manifold gray paint and after getting the motor up to operating temp, it seems to cure and stays a medium gray color. I can post pics if you like.

Rodney, Are you referring to the one that is internal to the steering column or external nearer the steering box? Bob R