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David Conwill

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    21
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  • Last visited

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About David Conwill

  • Birthday 06/15/1982

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  • Website URL
    https://www.hemmings.com/stories/u/david_c
  • Biography
    Married father of three, enamored with the '20s through the '60s.
  • Occupation
    storyteller

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bennington, Vermont, United States
  • Interests
    Old stuff.
  • My Project Cars
    ͚

Converted

  • Location
    Bennington, VT
  • Interests
    Old cars, old clothes, old stuff; 1919-62.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,632 profile views
  1. I've been combing the Internet today trying to glean all I can on this one. I love it. It's what I'd build, given the opportunity!
  2. You're about 45 minutes from me so I'm following this just to see what (if anything) you come up with.
  3. If you look at my older posts, you’ll see that I joined up for a different reason, but I’m glad I did. Late last fall, I purchased a 1960 Dodge D200 Utiline pickup from a friend. It was running when he bought it, but a broken weld on the radiator support dropped the radiator into the fan and it has been sitting since. It’s nothing fancy, but it will make a solid transportation/work truck for me—preferable to a used Dakota, S10, or Ranger and all the associated electrical gremlins of older late-model vehicles. To get the truck back on the road, I need to troubleshoot the rear lighting (I have taillights, but no brake lights), replace the fuel tank, fix the radiator, and re-do the shift linkage. That last bit has proved to be the biggest hurdle. The column shifter on the T85 was removed by a previous owner and discarded. I have most of the missing pieces gathered up, but I’m still in need of a control rod and a shift lever before I can replace the floor shifter. I know the Power Giants are a little late for this forum, but as the last of the flatheads, I figure the folks here will appreciate them a bit more than the Sweptline folks. This one is going to remain all stock unless some deviation aids keeping it on the road. The only possible exception is if I get a wild hair someday and decide to attempt putting a Megasquirt EFI system on the 230, and perhaps an Edgy high-compression flathead. No questions currently, I just wanted to say hi. Thanks for looking!
  4. Alas, this one is on indefinite hold. I still love the concept, but fate has handed me Model T and '31 Chevrolet parts, so I'm on to other projects for the time being.
  5. As a slight update, I was able to gain access to some better Dodge Brothers historical resources and learned that the body I actually need to find is a second-series ’22 or ’23 roadster body. Wish me luck!
  6. A speedster would be another cool direction. Maybe with DB disc wheels and a Fast Four engine. A little earlier flavor than I'm shooting for. My inspiration is Ed Iskenderian's pre-war roadster, but scaled up to the DB body. I'm contemplating the potential for expanding my search to include a '23-'26 touring car and fabricating a "turtletank" exterior fuel tank modeled on the 1915-'21 roadster turtledeck to replace the rear half of the body.
  7. I probably will start one once I have a body. Not much to see until that point.
  8. I heard a fellow refer to the arrangement as an "eight springer". Here's the 1931 Miller V16 Speedster as an example: Not yet, but I'm fairly confident I can find one once I really start looking (no room yet). They're probably the second-most-common roadsters from the era simply by virtue of their all-steel bodies. The wood-framed bodies of their competition fell apart, but the steel bodies stayed together and survived.
  9. Given that there was some interest in this project, I thought I’d show off a couple drawings a good friend of mine, Clayton Paddison, worked up for me last night. This is an excellent representation of what I have in mind for this build. The only deviation from what’s shown here is that I’m planning to run eight quarter-elliptical springs like a Miller race car instead of the stock parallel leaves. Front axle will be '38 PlyDo tube, and the rear axle from a similar-era MoPar - hopefully with a 3.54 gear ratio. Oh, and I plan on '37 MoPar bullet taillamps and no Motometer.
  10. Chris, I’m starting from scratch on this, but my plan is to dig up a ‘15-‘22 roadster body and mate it with the cowl of a ‘23-‘26 roadster or touring for a body that looks like this: The engine plan is to get a pre-war 218 block and stroke it with a 230 crank and rods (though I have a friend who is trying to talk me into a DeSoto / Chrysler six with an F-head). I’m taking inspiration from pre-war Ford hotrods, but using all MoPar pieces and some hop-up goodies from Edgy Speed Shop. I want the whole works to look like it rolled off the lake bed at Muroc in 1942. -Dave
  11. I started a thread on this topic over in the truck section, but haven't come up with all the info I need yet. I hope it's ok if I cross post over here:
  12. I found a helpful old Plymouth shop manual, circa 1942 that covers cars back to 1936 and here’s what it had to say: 1936-40: 1st - 2.57 to 1; 2nd - 1.55 to 1; 3rd - 1.00 to 1. Rev. - 3.48 to 1. 1941-42: 1st - 2.57 to 1; 2nd - 1.83 to 1; 3rd - 1.00 to 1. Rev. - 3.48 to 1. The transmissions seem to be nearly identical in most other respects with the following exceptions - 1936 used a bronze bushing on the idler shaft, and 1937-42 used a roller bearing; 1936-39 had no bearing or bushing on the transmission extension, whereas the ‘40-‘42 boxes had ball bearings; lubricant capacity increased by ½ pint after 1939 to 2-3/4 pints; and the obvious change from floor-shift in 1938 to column shift in 1940 (1939 was the first year for column-shift, but only on P-8 models; P-7 retained floor shift). Additionally, by some accounts the synchros on the 1939 P-7 box are superior to the slower-shifting ‘36-‘38 transmissions, so this would seem to be the ideal box. Unless, that is, you can put 1940 passenger-car gears into a 1941-47 pickup case. Still not clear on whether that can be done.
  13. It's not entirely off the table, but my ideal is to do a 100% period-correct build using no parts newer than 1948. Think of it as a restoration of a car that never existed, but could have.
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