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13 GoodAbout David Conwill
- Birthday 06/15/1982
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Website URL
https://www.hemmings.com/stories/u/david_c
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Biography
Married father of three, enamored with the '20s through the '60s.
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Occupation
storyteller
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Bennington, Vermont, United States
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Interests
Old stuff.
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My Project Cars
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Converted
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Location
Bennington, VT
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Interests
Old cars, old clothes, old stuff; 1919-62.
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I've been combing the Internet today trying to glean all I can on this one. I love it. It's what I'd build, given the opportunity!
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David Conwill changed their profile photo
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If you look at my older posts, you’ll see that I joined up for a different reason, but I’m glad I did. Late last fall, I purchased a 1960 Dodge D200 Utiline pickup from a friend. It was running when he bought it, but a broken weld on the radiator support dropped the radiator into the fan and it has been sitting since. It’s nothing fancy, but it will make a solid transportation/work truck for me—preferable to a used Dakota, S10, or Ranger and all the associated electrical gremlins of older late-model vehicles. To get the truck back on the road, I need to troubleshoot the rear lighting (I have taillights, but no brake lights), replace the fuel tank, fix the radiator, and re-do the shift linkage. That last bit has proved to be the biggest hurdle. The column shifter on the T85 was removed by a previous owner and discarded. I have most of the missing pieces gathered up, but I’m still in need of a control rod and a shift lever before I can replace the floor shifter. I know the Power Giants are a little late for this forum, but as the last of the flatheads, I figure the folks here will appreciate them a bit more than the Sweptline folks. This one is going to remain all stock unless some deviation aids keeping it on the road. The only possible exception is if I get a wild hair someday and decide to attempt putting a Megasquirt EFI system on the 230, and perhaps an Edgy high-compression flathead. No questions currently, I just wanted to say hi. Thanks for looking!
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You know I love that car, Moose! I look forward to seeing it in person one day.
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Alas, this one is on indefinite hold. I still love the concept, but fate has handed me Model T and '31 Chevrolet parts, so I'm on to other projects for the time being.
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As a slight update, I was able to gain access to some better Dodge Brothers historical resources and learned that the body I actually need to find is a second-series ’22 or ’23 roadster body. Wish me luck!
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A speedster would be another cool direction. Maybe with DB disc wheels and a Fast Four engine. A little earlier flavor than I'm shooting for. My inspiration is Ed Iskenderian's pre-war roadster, but scaled up to the DB body. I'm contemplating the potential for expanding my search to include a '23-'26 touring car and fabricating a "turtletank" exterior fuel tank modeled on the 1915-'21 roadster turtledeck to replace the rear half of the body.
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I probably will start one once I have a body. Not much to see until that point.
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I heard a fellow refer to the arrangement as an "eight springer". Here's the 1931 Miller V16 Speedster as an example: Not yet, but I'm fairly confident I can find one once I really start looking (no room yet). They're probably the second-most-common roadsters from the era simply by virtue of their all-steel bodies. The wood-framed bodies of their competition fell apart, but the steel bodies stayed together and survived.
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Given that there was some interest in this project, I thought I’d show off a couple drawings a good friend of mine, Clayton Paddison, worked up for me last night. This is an excellent representation of what I have in mind for this build. The only deviation from what’s shown here is that I’m planning to run eight quarter-elliptical springs like a Miller race car instead of the stock parallel leaves. Front axle will be '38 PlyDo tube, and the rear axle from a similar-era MoPar - hopefully with a 3.54 gear ratio. Oh, and I plan on '37 MoPar bullet taillamps and no Motometer.
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He must be a good guy. I see he also drives a Falcon!
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Chris, I’m starting from scratch on this, but my plan is to dig up a ‘15-‘22 roadster body and mate it with the cowl of a ‘23-‘26 roadster or touring for a body that looks like this: The engine plan is to get a pre-war 218 block and stroke it with a 230 crank and rods (though I have a friend who is trying to talk me into a DeSoto / Chrysler six with an F-head). I’m taking inspiration from pre-war Ford hotrods, but using all MoPar pieces and some hop-up goodies from Edgy Speed Shop. I want the whole works to look like it rolled off the lake bed at Muroc in 1942. -Dave
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I started a thread on this topic over in the truck section, but haven't come up with all the info I need yet. I hope it's ok if I cross post over here:
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Transmission Interchange Question
David Conwill replied to David Conwill's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I found a helpful old Plymouth shop manual, circa 1942 that covers cars back to 1936 and here’s what it had to say: 1936-40: 1st - 2.57 to 1; 2nd - 1.55 to 1; 3rd - 1.00 to 1. Rev. - 3.48 to 1. 1941-42: 1st - 2.57 to 1; 2nd - 1.83 to 1; 3rd - 1.00 to 1. Rev. - 3.48 to 1. The transmissions seem to be nearly identical in most other respects with the following exceptions - 1936 used a bronze bushing on the idler shaft, and 1937-42 used a roller bearing; 1936-39 had no bearing or bushing on the transmission extension, whereas the ‘40-‘42 boxes had ball bearings; lubricant capacity increased by ½ pint after 1939 to 2-3/4 pints; and the obvious change from floor-shift in 1938 to column shift in 1940 (1939 was the first year for column-shift, but only on P-8 models; P-7 retained floor shift). Additionally, by some accounts the synchros on the 1939 P-7 box are superior to the slower-shifting ‘36-‘38 transmissions, so this would seem to be the ideal box. Unless, that is, you can put 1940 passenger-car gears into a 1941-47 pickup case. Still not clear on whether that can be done.- 6 replies
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Transmission Interchange Question
David Conwill replied to David Conwill's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
It's not entirely off the table, but my ideal is to do a 100% period-correct build using no parts newer than 1948. Think of it as a restoration of a car that never existed, but could have.- 6 replies
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