Lou Earle

most any generator/starter shop has and can install anarrow pully on the generator. i probably have one if you cannot find one on a generator

Well here it is my "custom by Lou " installed ac vents small gages and ac controls. It really turned out very well - except for the price!!! But I have nice cold air. The compressor runs off the power steering pump like it did in the nova I am told. The ac vents in the dash were from vintage air. just cut and glued with rtf? silicone the lower part of the ashtray and a couple of washers under the radio opening vent to cover the larger knob holes that did not get cut out when adapting the vents to the grille. The knobs and knob plate were from old air as is the under dash unit- their hurricane series I think- rather small or compact - I have plenty of cold really cold air. I like it a lot Lou ps I did not install the ac compressor evaporator or condenser- had that doen at macon air macon ga - they did a great job. [/img] [/img] [/img]

I am told that the reason the British have so much electrical problems with their cars is because Lucas switches are not very good. I was also told the Brits drink warm beer because Lucas also makes most of their refrigerators!! Is that true Robin?

I believer yoru oil could have something to do with it on a new engine. My 34 manual says absolutely use ony 20 weith for the first 1000 miles then 30 and I notice my pressure is 45-45 running and 10-15 idle when hot. Some say oil pressure not controlled by weight of oil I am not so sure- Inoticed a drop in the oil p[ressure in my 48 plym taxi and guess what- fuel pump was squirting gas into the oil - changed oil pressure went back up Lout

I got the remote oil unit from NAPA for about 15 bucks . Fabricated a bracket out of flat iron from hardware store. Used flexible brake line to it and rubber hose from it I flared the copper tubing a bit and slipped the rubber over it same on bottom. I will probably change it to brake line later. Also I put a loop in the brake line so it can flex if engine twists 2 much- old trick taught to me by my late friend Wendel. Also the air cleaners are cake pans with holes in bottom and vegetable cans inserted and flaired and riveted on the pan the the bottom of can slit and radiator hose clamp attaches them to the carbs. Works very well Lou [/img]

I thought I had a site with 230/218 engine weight - but alas I do not Anyone know the weight of these engines? Lou

nope i cornered it- I have 2 one nos- never used found it mis identified on e bay years ago got it for 100 Lou

i am also looking at a t 5 inmy 48- could you let us know aboput the adaptpr plate or kit? also what did you have to do to the input shaft to make it work and what rleasebearing? Thanks Lou

I would re set the timing a bit before I got new plugs- timing off a bit will often cause fouling Lou

Working on the ac/alternator adapter plate and as Don noted I will be having clearance problems with the battery tray. So the question is - is the battery tray welded in? or just bolted- I see old bolts on one but cannot tell about the possibility of it being welded- is it? Lou

I forgot what a great ride the 34 has. Finally got the orginal engine installed and drove it about 50 miles today- It don't get better than this old beauty! [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img]

Here is the installed chrome plate with the ac vents installed- the vents were from vintage air and I ended up securing them in using black rtvonthe back around the seams - worked very well. Used under dash add ons for the side vents -one is on the right bottom of dash [/img]

Before I took it apart I would do a couple of things: 1 run it for a while and watch the carb- you might discover the leak location. 2 tighten all accessable screws to an even pressure.But not an excessive pressure. 3 Bang on the float bowl with rubber hammer some and drive it-sometimes the needle valve will stick open for some unknown reason and a whack with a rubber hammer or wood mallet will jar it loose. I have also used a piece of wood and a metal hammer. Good Luck Lou

Got these from vintage air today and with a couple of quick swipes with cutter they are installed- now must glue or somehow weld inthe lower 1/2 of ashtray. Getting closer to installing it Lou [/img]

I took a look at my 48 and then 54 engine and sure 'nough the heads are different - I had never noticed that before. What if you used the later style thermostat and drilled some holes in it to let some water pass thru as the engine warms. That is use the new type neck and thermostat on old head and then drill the flange on the thermostat to allow some water flow . I wonder if that will work? Lou

Well here it is- the final mock up of the plate that allows me to install ac compressor and alternator on the same side and the alternator being run off the compressor which sits where the generators located even using the generator bracket. The tension bracket for the alternator is from a local alternator starter shop-Thanks Scott- the compressor bracket is from using the old generator tensioner and another plate to "Move" the condenser bracket hole up a bit. I believe this will work on just about any Plymouth from 46 to 56. This set up uses an in between belt on the wide pulleys on the crank and water pump- it does not hit the bottom of the pulley and sits well into the ac compressor pulley then a thin belt is used on the compressor to alternator belt. It would be probably be better to change to all narrow pulleys but I really do not feel like doing all that work right now so- compromise- compromise. Also the tilt in the alternator will be corrected when the new holes are drilled in the new plates. Lou [/img] [/img] [/img]

I like many people have many opinions and views about many things. Some believe in No government some big government some are Republicans some are Democrats, some north, some east ,some west, some south,.Some wanty guns some don't -- the list could go no forever of divergent issues. No matter what your convictions beliefs ofrviews on issues I feel it is very inapproiate to air them here. I contibute to this site because I want to get and recieve help and information about cars and trucks- in particular Plymouths. It disturbs me when this becomes a sounding board for some ones point of view on some "issue". I thought we came together here with a common interest---Automotive. So I would suggest to anyone to remember that we are not all alike and do not all agree with one point of view and ask your self if what you are posting is approiate for an automotive site. Thanks Lou

Please explain- I am not aquainted with that- do I need to change water pumps?

My measurements indicate that there is clearance- the compressor sits where the generator was lactated and the alternator is above the protruding part of the battery tray I believe I will be using a thin tall 12 volt battery to move it away from the alternator a bit- but the real test of installing is on the way next week. If it works I am going to take the plate to a local shop fro them to make me several - anyone untested in the plate- IF IT WORKS OK? Lou

Tinkering around today and came up with this bracket/plate and system to install a/c on my 48 taxi. There is a tractor belt that I can use that is in between the fat and thin fan belts and should work. I will run the compressor off the water pump/crank belt then run the alternator off the compressor - that is how mustang did it on the 6 cyl engine working on tensioner and stabilizing the compressor I used the generator bracket with a long rod run thru it to install the compressor- observations and suggestions welcome. Lou [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img]

I need to get information on my car from Chrysler- a 50 Plymouth I understand I can send Chrysler some money and get the info on orgin etc I need to know 1- what info they need 2 where to send info and money 3 how much? what does it cost?? I cannot find that info but I know it is here somewhere Thanks in advance Lou

I am working on an A/C-alternator plate bracket set up and Have found it will probably be easier to do if I can use the 54 thermostat housing(low profile type) rather than the older version. If I put the 54 housing on the 48 engine are there any other changes that need to be done? Lou

In a small North Georgia town a newly wealthy family wanted their daughter in the United Daughters of the Confederacy. That requires an ancestor who served in the service on the Confederate side. They paid a researcher a good bit and sure enough he found a Ledbetter who had served in the Georgia Militia during the war. But he did not go quite far enough- after she had been inducted into the UDC someone went a little further and checked his military record- which ended abruptly in about 1863 when he was hung for desertion. Caused quite a flitter in the North Georgia chapter of the UDC. All true. Lou

Talked again to the old master engine builder. He went back in his mental inventory of how to fix things to continental flathead engines. Told me to cut the head off stripped bolt and pull it out of flange then get a grade 8 bolt exact size and a thin nut . Then install the flywheel using the 3 good bolts and snug them down .Then inset bolt from front thru flywheel and flange and PUT THE THIN NUT ON THE FLANGE SIDE!!! About as simple as it gets. Duhhh! He said he had done that on many continental engines and it works fine- just gonna be tedious getting the nut threaded on. We will see tomorrow.He thinks this is a better cure than using a castle nut and carter pin as we had first discussed Lou

Just to eliminate one source- attach another return spring and test again Also when you stop can you pull the pedal back and stop the high idle? I sure sounds like weak return spring or a binding somewhere to prevent full return Lou