RUSTYSNACK

Very cool, I'll be following this for sure!!

I actually just found the posts about doing a Jeep cherokee sway bar swap after a few hours of searching..I have reposted here maybe it'll be easier to find in the future for someone. I am doing this to my 1950 Plymouth.

Why do you need to add positive camber? are you having handling issues? i am currently building a 1950 Plymouth rat rod and have been acquiring parts to do these same modifications..I was looking for information on a few things and stumbled here..i have all the disc brake and shock relocation stuff already.. But i cant seem to find a webpage for that "fat man" cavalier power rack install kit, or info on what is needed to swap in the cherokee sway bar.. can you help point me in the right direction?

i just ordered a kit from rusty hope last week for my 1950 Plymouth rat rod project..It came fast and with very detailed instructions and parts list. Also i liked how it used more conventional parts..Rusty's kit uses Mopar hubbed front rotors and Chevy Camaro/S-10 style calipers as opposed to scarebird using Lincoln town car rear rotors on stock hubs and Chevy celebrity calipers which seemed like a pretty odd combination to me.., that and Rusty's was 100+ dollars cheaper than scare bird..I havent installed it yet but it looks pretty straight forward. I just ordered most of the parts i need for the install from ebay today, rotors (drilled and slotted ones from car-id),calipers, brake hoses,dust caps,.total costs $289..I still need,pads,bearings and wheel seals ill "get in the Zone" ..I figure ill be in it for $500 total for the conversion.I Figure the piece of mind that ill be able to stop my big blocked monster will be priceless..

thanks for the input and the pictures.I took alot of time off from this project to build a truck to drive but I am starting back on it again. i have the drivers side figured out pretty well i went with what i was describing before and for now i just have the driver side temporarily tack welded in place while i fab the other side and build a new firewall and trans tunnel to fit around my big block..i will have to cut the tacks free later to drill holes to spot weld the pans to the braces and inner rocker lip then i will lap the outer rocker over them and weld it to the pans,seems like the best course of action..

I live in the rust belt and I refuse to buy new cars,my daily driver is 16 yrs old now..but i'm also a shop manager in a big salvage yard, so parts for my car are either super cheap or free! but considering my lengthy junkyard background there isn't a rusted heap yet i haven't been able to conquer.Its a point of pride for us northern mechanics.Its my dream to relocate to a warmer salt free climate,A magical land where bolts always turn out and parts fall off the way they were meant too,but that'll never happen.I do always laugh when i hear about a southern mechanic struggling with a little bit of rust.i say just get in there and remember hammers and torches are your friend.

I work in a salvage yard in the rust belt i've seen countless fuel tanks patched with JB weld it seems to hold up pretty good..

Well i took a closer look myself at the inner fenders as i never really paid any close attention to them before now,and they have been trimmed slightly but i dont think it was done to make the engine fit as much as they were lazy and wanted easier access to the side of the block for spark plug/manifold work. i did take some better pictures of the fenders and engine mounts i will upload later.

I bought it from a guy that had it sitting in a barn in North Java actually.i have all the paper work on it i dont know how long that guy had it but he said it was all hacked up when he got it..i just posted a few pics of it..actually..I see your in Indiana i have paper work from Indiana or Illinois or Iowa or something like that now that i think about it is it your old car? haha that would be cool..

well heres what the 472 looks like in my 1950 plymouth. i bought it this way and its the only nicely done thing on the car. i cant really tell if the inner fenders were trimmed or not since i dont know what original looks like and they used some rubber to make a splash shield, but the fire wall was definitely cut out to fit and they cobbled a crap fire wall in i have since cut out and will redo.

Well after seeing this thread i decided to stop procrastinating and go out and fit the pans i bought in and see how they would fit in there. well i figured out the rear pan and got it tacked in and tacked the rocker on just to see how it looked, but ill have to take the rocker off and weld the floor pan to the top of the inner rocker then the rocker to the pan. i took pics the pans arent an exact fit ill have to fab a center section to mate the rear pan with the front one. .

club coupe? i need a roof cut lol

I've been working on installing new floors and inner and outter rockers..should I be installing a floor pan at the same time as the outer rocker and sandwich the pan between the inner and out rocker panels then? I was just going to lap weld the outer rocker to floor pan and spot weld the outer to the inner before I seen this my outer over Lapps my inner rocker a tad so I figured the floor pan would slide under the edge of that up against the inner..I'm a rookie to restoration but I have skills..

HMM so my 1950 Plymouth deluxe club coupe is a p19 with 118" wheel base?I'm new to this site as well as MOPAR and this is my first vintage build anyways.I was wondering myself which model code i had and couldn't find a reference on it anywhere that covered 1950+

I'm glad i stumbled on this thread.I too purchased a 1950 Plymouth club coupe about a year ago but mine came with a 472 Cadillac big block and a turbo 400 already bolted into the car i was told it ran and drove at one point but the firewall/floor pans were cut out and then were so cobbled/patched/screwed together ive had to go and cut it all out and start over as far as the sheet metal goes but ill tell ya the fire wall will have to get massaged in at least 4 inches an the inner fenders were trimmed to fit..this guy used some 3/4 stock welded right to the top of the frame to mount the engine in which is the only thing that looks properly done about mine..it does look sweet but i have ALOT of sheet metal work to do to make The whole car look good,also a previous owner tried to chop the roof and hacked it up real bad.i have no idea how many hands have been on this thing over its life and i have alottta work ahead of me,This is my first custom rod but I'm skilled and determined to bring this vision back from the grave.i have a ton of questions about what i think i wanna do versus what will work on this car.i once asked about ditching the 472 for a 440 to go all MOPAR on another thread and some guys talked me into keeping the caddy for its unique cool factor, but i too know where a 440 motor home with 43,000 on it sits but i am a Chevy guy with a healthy respect for MOPAR but i'm not gonna lose sleep over keeping the caddy.