CoronetGuy

I have a Schumacher that I bought from O'Reilly auto parts about 8 years ago. I don't think that same one is carried anymore but they have others.

Some real squares in here. I like lake pipes as long as they are the right length for the car and are mounted in the proper position. I hate ones that start too far from the front wheel opening. Which is why mine we custom made at a local exhaust shop. I took it one step further and had extensions made to travel the whole length of the car. I'm not chopping the top on this and IMO a long, low car looks better. So I have done mods to make the car appear longer than it is. 3 bolts and I can have the extensions off. I have a Moose manifold on the car and it was originally straight piped. After 3 years I got a little tired of the sound and had some porter mufflers snuck in underneath. So now the front half of the pipe is not connected. But you can't tell unless you are underneath the car.

Thanks for all the tips. I was gone all weekend at a car show. I'll gonna try and get back to the door this week

I've had the car for 5 years and the driver side rear door was the only one that wouldn't always close the 1st time. That door you have to give it the firm push. The other doors have always been great. Anybody that closes one of the doors for the 1st time would always say "wow, these doors close great. Even better than brand new cars" and they really do.

Tried lifting the door while opening, nothing. I was able to pull away some of the interior felt and just barely see the rotor latch. I have a WD40 can that has a flexible spray tip, so I had just enough room to get it in there and spray the rotor latch real good. Still nothing. Hoping maybe after it sits soaked for the day it may help

As stated above, it is hit or miss with Pertonix. I have friends with 10 years on theirs. I got 2 years out of mine. Maybe 2,000 miles. I had their flamethrower coil too. It just randomly shut off one day as I was approaching a stop light. Luckily I was close enough to home to get a free tow through my insurance company. I wasted quite a bit of time chasing other things before I determined it was the Pertronix. Swapped in another distributor with points and I've done at least 2,000 miles this year, plus whatever I did the last half of 2018. I am still 6 volt. I have a Langdon HEI distributor that I was planning to use once I convert to 12v, but now I'm not so sure I will do it.

I can't remember now if it was the garnish molding having screws from the top of the door (obviously inaccessible with the door closed) or if it was a door panel screw blocked by the dash board (again, inaccessible with the door closed) that was preventing me from getting the panel off

I have an issue with the driver side door on my 1952 Dodge Coronet. As in it won't open no matter what I do. Of course I can't get the door panel off either, since I need to open the door to access all the trim screws. I have taken the outer door handle off and that part seems to be ok. Inside handle seems to move ok. It locks and unlocks from the inside. It locks and unlocks from the outside with the key. I literally just closed the door one day and the next day went to open it and nothing happens. Any tips to getting this door open? I've tried a coat hanger and using a screwdriver from the outside (when the handle is off) I'm tired of climbing across from the passenger seat, lol. Pic for attention

Mine had the ring as well

I don't know what the problem was with it. It was in the car for about 2 years. Bought brand new

Update: The pertronix was the problem. I got another distributor from a friend. Installed it and the car fired right up. Just need to get the timing corrected and it's good to go

Thanks guys, Think I'll just replace the cap and rotor to be safe.

Update: Never installed the resistor in my pertronix wiring. 3 Weeks ago the car just randomly died as I pulled up to a stop. Strangely enough, that day and the previous day the trans was shifting as it was supposed to about 90% of the time. Car has no spark at the plugs. I have spark at the coil. The engine and trans wiring was already in pretty sad shape. So I dropped the $$ on an engine and trans harnesses from Rhode Island Wiring. Car still has no spark. I'm thinking the Pertronix failed. Any tips on how to test the Pertronix?

For anyone considering a Moose Manifold dual exhaust header, they also interfere with the fuel pump. I had to run an electric pump on my 52

There's a mopar automatic battery filler on ebay right now. $424!