Purevil

POR-15 has a tank liner/sealer that I have used on Motorcycle tanks and it works great. I have never tried it on Automotive tanks. I have after repairing any holes taken fuel tanks in to Powder coat, and one I had Rhino lined (on the outside of the tank). never had a problem with any of them. Rust inside of a tank is usually formed from moisture and air above the fuel in the tank. This is worse with E-85 type fuels. the two best solutions I have found to reduce this during storage is to use a good fuel stabilizer and keep the tank full, or completely drain the fuel tank and use a Engine fogging spray such as for lawnmowers to coat the inside of the tank.

wd40 rust remover soak and a couple of small short chains ( 4 inch long about 1/4- 5/16 inch) I used 4 of them. Just swish it around good, then let it sit about 30 min. repeat swishing and the let sit at a different angle about 30 min. repeat until clean. The cement mixer works to but makes a lot more noise.

Napa/ SKF 15620

Most auto parts stores are the same item just a different box. Napa uses Cardone or United Brakes as there suppliers. Rebuild will have on average 3yr/36000 mile warranty. New if available will usually have a lifetime warranty. As far as USA made vs Overseas made, it is up to the original supplier but with the political restrictions and labor prices it is very hard pressed to find a USA made anything and if you do you have to pay out the nose for it. Look at the hand tool industry, Snap-on, MAC, Craftsman, Napa... all made overseas the only USA manufacture I know of is Cornwell Tools. Look under the hood of any USA made vehicle after 1985 and the Asian parts are abundant. You have better luck finding Assembled in USA then Made in USA.

The Auto-lite plugs should be 306, Champion plugs should have been 592, You may be running the plug in the wrong heat range causing the to foul out. The other possibility is that the Auto-lite 303 is listed for the early 60- early 70 gm vehicles (12volt systems) so it may be a resistor type plug which would require more voltage from the coil to fire properly.

Glad the problem was resolved. I agree that the Idle was set to low, in the original post it was pointed out that it was the same with the vacuum operated wipers. As for the electrical voltage... unless it has been switched to a solid state regulator..the voltage regulator could be adjusted to give better voltage at any speed even idle. Ideally a standing battery should be at 2.1 volts per cell (6 volt battery= 2.1volts x 3 cells) or 6.3 volts. 6.33 volts at idle will be fine with ALL electrical accessories turn off but might be to low with headlights, heater, and/or radio turned on. another consideration for increased output is to change to a smaller pulley on the generator, this will cause it to spin faster.

I had similar problems when I moved back to Montana with a motorcycle and car I bought in California, They were trying to find the motorcycle VIN on the frame neck of a 1959 Harley-- Vin # is on the engine only, and Cali used the engine # on the 55 Chevy nomad. All I had to do was have the local law enforcement inspect them and fill out a VIN inspection sheet, make a call to verify they were not stolen and apply for a bonded title with prof of purchase (bill of sale).

Paint colors have not changed that much over the years, how ever formulations and color names have. Your best bet is to take the wheel you have that you are trying to match, clean and polish it well to your liking. Then take it to the local mixer of your choose and compare it to the color chips. do the comparison both inside under lights and outside in the sunlight as the same color will look different. You will never get a perfect match but you will get close enough to be happy with it. The biggest thing to watch out for is single stage paint or multi stage paint, a single stage paint will give you the semi gloss look of the 50's. I just got done painting a 1973 Chevy 1 ton that was orange from the factory. the closest color match for it this was called sunset orange used on a 2006 Saturn. from 2 feet away and the sun just right you can see the difference from the box and the cab... any further and it looks like a direct match. you will have better luck finding the formula in enamel instead of lacquer I know some NAPA stores mix paint and all NAPA stores have a paint Rep that they can call to track down the information.

From experience I can tell you the Airtex pumps are JUNK. As for the roll pin most manufactures peen over the casting or "stake" the pocket if the original design did not have a retainer. I have seen a OEM Carter pump last 138,453 miles and the first replacement Carter pump only last 7 miles and the second replacement Carter has lasted almost 90,000 miles on it. The next replacement will include an engine however.

Rare Parts Company = inner 26402, outer 26482, NAPA # NCP 269-2008 for inner and NCP 269-2007 for outer.

Very interesting post... I need to do everything on my 50 Wayfarer 3 P coupe and was considering using a 6.1 or a 6.4 hemi myself. recently sense I can not find a frame (lots of damage from sitting on a hill side), I have toyed with the idea of building one that would use the 06 and up Charger front and rear suspension, engine and transmission. the car itself needs a full workup, body and drive train. I am open to idea's to get this back to working order, but will keep it in the mopar family--- no chevy small block, no ford rearend. This is my first dodge older then 1966. I have done a few 46-72 chevy and fords, and numerous 72-currant of the "big Three" but feed this little stray coupe at the auction and it followed me home.

Most Auto parts houses ( O'rilleys, H-O, NAPA, ect) use Cardone industries for new and rebuilt brake master and slave cylinders. Most of which have a 3 year/36000 mile waranty. Most of the parts need to be looked up in the book and crossed over to the newer part number for them, but the knowledgeable ones behind the counter should be able to help. as an example a 1950 dodge wayfarer at NAPA use to be 3241 and the rebuild kit was 143. the rebuild kit number is still good (about $22) but the complete master cylinder number has changed to P33792 for a rebuilt one ( about $125) or M3241 for a new one(about$262).

My mistake the diesel is a Hydra-boost not hydra-vac

was it a plastic reservoir or a cast reservoir? most builders use a brake booster from a mid 80's s-10 due to it only being 9" in diameter and mount to the fire wall or under the body. I have seen one that used a hydra-vac from an 86 Chevy diesel mounted under the floor with bell crank linkage. If you like to keep it in the family 89-95 Chrysler Le Baron used an 8 3/4 " brake booster that the master cylinder is very easy to modify over for a remote reservoir and can be mounted almost anywhere with bell crank and pivot linkage with out photos or part numbers it will be very hard to ID what it was that you saw.