RonaldC
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8 NeutralProfile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Texas
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Interests
dodge muscle, Harley Davidson, The great state of Texas, Family, and country living.
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My Project Cars
52' Dodge 1/2 ton AND a 51' Dodge 1/2 ton
Contact Methods
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Yahoo
RonaldCornell@YMail.com
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Biography
Mopar Man for life.
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Occupation
Sales - Renewable Energy
Converted
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Location
Blanket, Texas
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Interests
Old Dodge Pickups ofcourse
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251 vs. 264
RonaldC replied to RonaldC's topic in DPETCA - Dodge Pilothouse Era Truck Club of America
Looks like a 251 CUI. to me 265 had a different nut on the connecting rod. Had more of a stamped nut, where the 251 had a "regular" nut on it -
Block says 264 (C5363), but cant tell for sure when looking at the connecting rod. Anyone have a better eye than I?
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1951 Frame swap
RonaldC replied to RonaldC's topic in DPETCA - Dodge Pilothouse Era Truck Club of America
I would be very interested in any pictures you could share. Is the frame relatively close to the width of the 51? -
So, no secret by now that I have two 1951 pilot house. One is great and only getting better. But I am unsettled on what to do with the second one. It needs a lot of work. But in reality the body is in great shape, the frame is in great shape. it just would be up for frame off restoration. So I’m thinking I may want to make this 4 wheel drive so I have something reliable yet fun to play with around the farm, running to town, getting into trouble with my children. . Any suggestions on frames that are conducive to the pilot house when considering a frame swap ?
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Shipped a 51 Dodge from Portland to Texas via UShip. Not sure the dispatcher was to savvy on efficiently routing the drivers as they went 4 hours past and then called to see how close they were. But, all told, truck arrived un scathed and for the agreed price. Would suggest you save your time, do the UShip deal. Would also recommend checking out the drivers reviews be for picking one. You will have options and we all know in the end, you get what you pay for.
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The Vintage Auto Garage kit was the exact kit I used. I would agree you may be able to piece together your own kit, but again for me, ease and simplicity is worth the relatively inexpensive purchase price. Good luck and should you run into a problem, don’t hesitate to reach out to the fellow Mopar lovers around here. Though not an expert, I’m always happy to help where I can.....
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For me, I always try to start with the obvious issues and work backwards into the “root”. If I was concerned about causing damage down stream, may be worth it to remove any of the respective wires from said device. I think there is only 2 at the most per device anyway, no? All of that being said though, the amount of time vested in chasing somewhat of a moving target may be better spent on just starting over and replacing it all. To be clear though, I would have to be compelled to believe there are multiple multiple issues, not 1 or 2 problematic functions. My experience with “clean up” of others “failed attempts” has been I inadvertently create another problem trying to diagnose the 1st one, bumping loose wires or things of the sort. Now, all that said, and not that I am professing to know the extent of your situation, nor am I “huge” proponent of giving up and starting over, but to be candid, there isn’t just a whole lot to wiring a 50’s model pickup. But what I am advocating is make sure you are being efficient with your resources. 2 or 3 days of my time, plus material, when I could clean it up in a day? I’m trouble shooting. 3 or 4 weeks trouble shooting when I could have all new, done right, done my way, all for 2 or 3 days of my time, plus material? Yep, no brainer. My advice is grab a bucket of ice and a couple beers. Start with fixing the known issues. If I make some real progress by days end, stay with the clean up initiative. But if I’m no closer, and/or out of beer by day 2, I’m really thinking seriously about will my continued efforts prove to be in vain...... Hope this helps, or at least gives you food for thought. cheers!
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But when its off, it is still has a power source via the Positive "ground'. My guess is when its in the on position, there is no ground to be found. But in all fairness, I cant say I have ever tried to wire it backwards to test my theory so I am far from a subject matter expert here.
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Thank you. I am kind of partial to old Dodges (and HD) myself. Which components? Most all existing will work with 12volt, just have the resistor inline. I used Vintage Auto Garage for the conversion pieces. Maybe could have it done it diff for slightly less, but not much less. http://www.vintageautogarage.com
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John, 1st, yes, you need to have a NEGATIVE ground. Everything is working in reverse because the circuits are in reverse. Meaning you are actually turning the radio "on" when you are turning it "off". I would not suggest trying to chase any problems until you correct the known issues. You may find that most of it is wired correctly once you fix the ground. Gauges will need to have a resistor in order to work with the 12 volt system, here again making them far more reliable. I bet they work great when the truck is turned off. Well, probably not but you get the jest. As far as rebuilding them, there is a guy here, but cant remember his name. I want to say he is also on E bay. If not, and you are willing to part with some of your kids college fund, Red Line Gauges in southern California looks to do some pretty high quality work. To the cloth wiring. Me? I pulled it all out. I don't trust things that actually look they are about to catch fire. Historically dust and electricity are not a good match. Or maybe they are. (pardon the pun). I ordered a complete kit from Yogi's online and replaced it all. Done. No more worries or electrical problems. Now the Knucklehead? You sir clearly have impeccable taste. Early 50's Mopar AND a 47 Knuckelhead? You friend are a gentlemen among gentlemen. But to the point. I don't know who does. Would suggest contacting my local HOG chapter. Those guys are ALL ABOUT breathing life into lost treasures. Hope this help, let me know if I can be of service. Ronald C.
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48, Would love to share more pics, but the site is advising me I can not upload any more due to capacity(?) But couple things about what you mentioned above. So yep, truck is 1/2 ton, so where the marker lights came from is a mystery, unlike where they went. As far as I can tell, the bumper is OEM, as well as the spare tire hanger underneath. I personally prefer low side (in fact I now have 2 of them). My Father in law has a 49' 5 window, high side, bought right of the lot here locally by his grandfather. And while it is nice, its not so much for me. I am more low, sporty, a not to much glass. The Door badge confirms B3B, 108" wheelbase, serial # 85311090, 97/86 horse (gross/net respectfully). I am assuming motor is original based on feedback from previous owner, and it matches numbers on the title. You are also correct about the "D100" fender badges (as you stated), they are for a D100, not a Pilothouse B series. But given how thin the metal is at that location, I think they were applied as a cosmetic repair. Wiring under the dash is nice and tight, loomed and tied. I do not like clutter and partial installs. Do it right, do it once! With regard to the cab corners, you clearly have seen a few of these to know to mention that. I too have seen this issue, but not on this one, clean as a whistle. I will go out on a hunch here and mention the fuel tank before you ask. As you may well know, Tanks does not offer a factory fit for these trucks. Close yes, but not exact. The fill neck is wrong, which tends to lead people to hack the cab to make it fit. NO SIR! Not me, not happening. So I had a local machine shop fab a spacer to raise it accordingly. In another post, I shared some photos for a guy in a desperate plea to stop him from cutting the cab on his truck. May be able to find if interested. Suspension hangers probably should be replaced just out of age and principal. Nothing coming apart but they are rather dry and brittle I am sure. As far the bed, yeah, it needs to be reworked for sure. That is more less the point I'm at now. Where is that starting (or better said stopping) point? Do the bed? Well you need to do the paint/body work on the bed 1st. If your going to do that, then you need to...... See where I am going? I am that guy that makes a simple bed install turn into a frame off resto. So for now, I drive it. As is. And have a great time doing it. But I also like to protect my investment. So I make sure no leaks, everything works, doesn't sit in the weather. Even the wiring was preventative as they were brittle and (to me) a fire hazard waiting to happen. So all told, the truck is great, drive-able, and a lot of fun. And if someone wanted a complete truck that required little, or even nothing, to enjoy, its probably this one. For the guy building a hot rod, its not this one. There are several laying in a bone yard that are far better suited for that. This one is a great truck that needs to be refreshed, not refurbished......
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@48, I must admit, I can not definitively say they are the OEM mirrors. However, I was provided a picture of the 2nd owner pushing/loading it out of a barn, and the mirrors where on it then. My assumption is they are correct given he had parked it in there some 30 years earlier. As far as the integrity of the truck, I have replaced the fuel tank and sending unit, the water pump, converted to 12v (still have generator and coil), put a slightly higher rated coil when changed it over, new battery, new wiring in and out, front to back. wheels and tires, and head/tail lights. The truck starts on cue with the push of the floor stomp every time. I drive it back and forth to get Ice cream and check the mail pretty regular. 3 on the tree and and runs, shifts, stops just fine. All the glass is in great shape. Just a sound old truck, but it IS 66 YEARS OLD, so as expected, it isnt perfect, but real darn close. What it needs? 12 volt wiper motor, heater and fuel gauge hooked up (both worked just fine on 6v), wood in bed. And honestly if I was feeling really ambitious I would replace both the front fenders. The only location with rust on this truck is the same as everyone of these B series, where the front fenders bolts to the body. In the end, the thing is the truck is by far in better shape than any of the others I have found, excluding the frame offs and the extreme outliers of course. And it absolutely serves its purpose: I am a HUGE Dodge fan so obvious choice for a truck here, I would say it is very reliable, not that I would drive it out of state, and it is a total blast to drive around town with my kids/grand kids. But the one thing it doesn't do is satisfy my need for speed (i.e. Hot Rod). Hense the other 51project I have in the barn just waiting for me to open my check book! Thank for the feedback. Attached an "as found" picture of it for you as well.....