VCustoms
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Hello everyone!! Well lets bring this back from the dead. Kinda sad its been 3 years but Rome wasn't built overnight. Life has changed for me a lot of those three years (moving, hailstorms, chaos) but I am in a position with both my skills and finances now that I can move forward on this more. I have made more progress in the last three months than I have in the last three years. 1. Rebuilt the front end ( Deluxe kit from Kanter) Got my credit card info stolen in the process so not sure if I will ever use them again. 2. Disc brake conversion. 3. Front shock relocation using F1 shock mounts. 4. R&P tacked in place for now. 5. 2nd 383/727 combo picked up. Pretty tired. Needs a bore so first combo is at the machine shop. 6. New rear shocks. 7. Rear end mounted. I have seen a lot of posts on here about using the Jeep sway bar on the front. Being one who always has to go against the grain I took some measurements on the old one and poked around Pull N Pay the last time I was there just to see if something else might work. I found the front sway bar on a 06 Dodge Magnum RT is darn near the same length and shape. The rod is about three times the size but I think it might work. I'll post some pictures so you guys can chime in. There may be something I missed that I am not thinking about.
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Thank you gents. I appreciate all the help. I like Plymouthy's solution. I keep hoping that someone has the Cavalier mounts and could send me a picture haha. I reached out to Fatman hoping they had an old set of directions or something that could help me out. I think with everyone's input so far I am good on 2 of the questions. Now to solve the rack mounting question and the brake pedal assembly/MC question.
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http://rustyhope.com/site/
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Not sure. Neither of my Plymouths came to me with any powertrain so I am building them both without original motors. I'm sure its been done. Fatman used to make a kit for it.
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I'm using a Ford 8.8 out of a Ford Exploder. Same bolt pattern, LSD, and 31 spline axles. Just have to move the spring perches out. Front brakes I am looking at using the Rusty Hope brackets and his parts list. I'm putting a 383/727 combo in mine and two things I'll pass on. 1) You will need to take some of the firewall out. I followed a body line on the firewall and it doesn't look too bad. I know it was mentioned already but wanted to mention it again. 2) The stock steering wont work. You will have to get creative to cram a Mopar BB in there. I am using a '93 Cavalier Rack and Pinion so far and working on the rest still. Have to use a rear sump truck oil pan too if you go that route to clear the R&P.
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I haven't ever felt unwelcomed here which is why I was surprised by the response. The questions are only because I have learned so much from this forum. So to imply that, as I am going to put it, I'm SOL since its not stock isn't something I was expecting. Thanks pflaming. I understand that sometimes things are said with the best of intentions. Being on this forum, I have become accustomed to those that feel a vehicle should remain stock. I respect that. I am not that type of person though. I don't fit in with the normal crowd and tend to go against the grain. I may also be a bit grumpy after dealing with a Government customer who cant tie their own shoes. Deep breath. Let it go. Move on. My concern with the perch was the U-Bolts. If I use a wider perch then the U-bolts will be wider. That means that the bolt wont be tight against the spring. Should I worry about that? I had that feeling about the brakes but I just wanted to make sure I was thinking right. Shouldn't matter as long as I get the valving right front to rear. Like I said in the question I haven't ever built a car from the ground up. Everything I am doing I am either learning by reading or doing or a combination of both. I just look to those with more experience for any crumb of help when I need it. There is less and less guys my age doing this and any knowledge out there is better than what I have. Thank you both for your supportive words.
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Not helpful and kind of judgmental. This is the P15-D24 forum. Not the "Stock Only P15-D24 forum". Its my car. I can build it however I want. So if you have input that is productive, please feel free to jump in. If you just want to voice your opinion on how I am building MY car, please feel free to go post that somewhere else.
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So no help with this?
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I've finally made some progress on the '48. Ford 8.8 is ready for new spring perches, firewall will clear the BB now, and I have a Cavalier R&P from the junkyard. So here are the questions: 1. Rear-end. Can I use a 2" wide spring perch even though the springs are 1 7/8"? (I've never done a complete build so I'd rather ask and look stupid than not ask and something fail driving down the road.) 2. R&P install help. What do the brackets look like? I've seen one set of pics. Any others? Use 2005 Ford Exploder outer tie rods? Any other help? 3. Brakes. The 8.8 has 11" disks. Rusty Hope uses a 10" disk for the front I believe. As long as I use the right valves will the two live happily together? 4. Pedals. I keep seeing something about using a '94 Jeep Cherokee brake pedal assembly. Is this the whole assembly including the booster or just the pedal?
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The new Ram trucks have a color called Blackforest Green.
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Thanks for the advice! I was planning on some firewall surgery but wasn't sure how to go about it.
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I was wondering if that threw you off haha. No Bowtie power for me. I don't have the radiator but I do have the pulleys and I am planning on electric fans. I will see if I can find a junk radiator just to use for mock up that's the size I need. You modified the SHO engine mounts you made to reuse on the 400 right?
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Thanks Falcon. Not sure if I will keep this one yet. I'm chomping at the bit to get my other 48 running and I picked this one up just to save it from the crusher. If I do end up keeping it then it will turn into a gasser with a twist in the drivetrain compartment. Guess we'll see how things work out haha.
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Wouldn't the 400 be closer to a 383 swap than an LS? Mines a B-383 from a 65 Chrysler. Or is there that much difference in the frames?
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How similar is the 49 and 48 frame? Looks to be the same. I ask because I am putting in a 383/727 in my 48 and would like to use a lot of what you have posted for reference as far as motor mounts, cross member, and R/P install. I'd like to get the motor/trans mocked in before I send the short block to the machine shop. Its hard for me to even guess where the engine mounts should go. Never done all this before. Just reading all the books I can and learning on the way.
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This post is all the spares he had. One hood and one front clip is from my car. The rest came from this deal. Two hoods with trim, two doors with all trim and handles, 3 inner window frames with wing windows, misc interior trim, misc exterior trim, and what's left of a dash. I plan on using the front clip I bought on the first trip on the car since someone ruined the other fenders on it now. I will then starting listing all of the extra parts and bits for sale. I don't need them and they don't need to sit around here. One of the extra doors is pretty rusted out on the bottom so that one is scrap unless someone really wants it. I will pull everything out of it before I send it to the scapper. Last pic is the bumpers that I am in the dark on. Looks to be 46-48 Mopar bumper mounts but the bumpers themselves aren't Mopar.
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Picked up everything Saturday. Not a bad day aside from a coolant hose clamp deciding it didn't want to clamp the hose anymore on the truck. Found a great classic car yard north of Denver. Could of spent an entire day there. Attached in this post is pics of the car.
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There is nothing wrong with a world filled with old iron. Id rather live in that world than live with iPhones, tablets, and Facebook. So I guess since the deal is done I can tell you all the specifics. I bought the front clip that included the radiator supports, all the chrome, front splash pan, inner finders, and body fenders for $160. I'm buying the business coupe plus an extra set of doors, extra hood, extra dash, and extra bumpers for $300. I think I did pretty good. No title but in CO vehicles over 25 years old aren't that hard to get new titles for.
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Made the deal to buy the rest. Going this weekend to get everything. Starting to think of using the best parts to make a good project and selling what I don't use. I re-read the city zoning rules and I am not at my limit since two vehicles reside in the garage. I'm thinking the Business Coupe would make a good gasser project.
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Im starting to feel like its worth the 2 hr drive and and the work to get it loaded on a trailer. Missing a rear axle and no way to get a tow truck to it. Gotta find enough friends to help out. Kind of hard to pass up since the guy is asking under $400 for everything.
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I've checked scrap. I can get the car and all the spares for that cheap.
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Thanks Knuckle. The problem for me is that no one makes a patch panel for what I need. The bottom rear of the drivers side door jam is rusted and I cant find anything to patch that. I agree that selling the whole thing would be best but I'm at my max allowed car limit per city regs so this thing could only sit a week or two at most before I would have to kick it down the road. As far as cost, I could take all of it in one load to the scrap yard and make money but I couldn't live with myself if I did that. Its one of those scenarios where the guy just wants all this stuff gone because it is taking up space and he has no interest in it.
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Well I have found myself between a rock and a hard place. I came across a deal that I may not want to pass up but for parts I don't really need for my 48. A gentlemen near me is selling is 48 Plymouth business coupe for an amount that I cant pass up. It doesn't have engine/trans/rear-end or most of the interior. However it does come with an extra set of doors, extra dash, and extra hood. He had an extra front clip complete with chrome that I have already purchased from him and now I am debating on going back for the rest. He plans to scrap it all in 6 months or so if it doesn't sell. The 48 looks to be someones hot rod from the 80s. The taillights have been replaced with some small round ones and they also filled in the grill. I know how hard it is to find these parts and how much harder it is to find them at a reasonable price. Do you all think its worth it to go buy everything this guy has? Id sell both sets of doors, both hoods, the rear fenders, both dash's, and whatever else someone needed. I would use the body to cut patch panels to fix some of the rust on my car and could do that for others if they needed it. I know a lot of you hate me for saying that but that's the only way I can justify the cost and effort to go get the rest. Heck another option is I would throw on the front clip I bought ( minus most of the chrome) pick the best doors, best hood, and sell someone a 48 Business coupe. So whats the opinions? Buy the rest? Forget about it?
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Thanks Plymouthy. A lot of what you said is what I was planning on. The work, tools, time, and space don't worry me. I am plenty prepared for that. I am just trying to explore all options and your response was FINALLY what I was looking for. Thank you again sir.
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Well it has been a long time since I have posted on here. Its hard to think that I bought my Plymouth 3 years ago and I am just now getting to it. Guess that's what happens when you knock out a Bachelors and Masters in 4 years. Now that I have time for the car I have been going over it more and more. My rearend is an Exploder 8.8 (3.73, Posi, discs). Motivation is 383/727 combo. Now here is where the fun begins. I have spent the last few days going back an forth on the front end. First thought was Fatman but $2500 isn't possible. Then it was rebuild what's there, add discs, add R&P, and go from there. I am still well over $1k and using R&P on something not designed with that in mind. Now I am considering a Dakota frame stub. It would make the engine fitment a bit easier. Parts are more readily available. Steering setup would make me a bit more comfortable with putting the family in the car and it would be a cost savings now and later. I know there are those who are against the frame stub. Trust me I have searched every post about this and anything close to this and I know I shooting for a small group to answer. I know the pros and cons of all the options. Is there anyone who can tell me what it would take to do the Dakota frame stub? What year first gen Dakota do I need for discs? Not looking to do a complete frame swap either.
