JDaniel64

Been a while since i've posted, i am having an issue with a cracked exhaust manifold. The first time I noticed a 'ticking' noise from the manifold was on a winter day in 2008, never thought anything of it because it always stopped after 30 seconds to a minute. Noticed a crack in the manifold about 3 years ago, but it always sealed itself up after the manifold was heated up and the engine was warm. Now it doesn't seal up...it just ticks and pops. My question is how difficult are the exhaust/intake manifold bolts to remove? I am worried about breaking studs when removing the manifolds and am wondering if it is a tedious job to undertake? I was thinking about replacing the exhaust manifold with the Fenton dual repo's available, I need a new exhaust system anyways. So, could I still use my original choke somehow or find another type of automatic choke? I would greatly appreciate any info, thanks in advance, John.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/868/M0002868.pdf This might be what you are looking for.

Several people have probably torn down a few older engines to discover whitish-brown deposits on the valves, cylinder head, pistons, and inside exhaust manifolds . Some of the engines I have torn down... a '49 ford V8, '49 dodge I6, '67 ford 352 V8, and yesterday a '68 ford 289 V8 have all shown this cement-like stuff. Today I decided to take a sample from my freshly dis-assembled 289 and test it (for those interested, the testing machine was a Bruker XRF): Sample locations include exhaust valves, general combustion chamber, and piston tops (not shown): Here is a picture of the results and sample used: 70.8% of the sample was lead, so (70.8/77.2)*100 = 91.7% of the powder was lead based compounds...probably most in the oxide/carbonate form. Interesting to see Bromine and Chlorine as the next most prevalent components in the analysis, since they were used as lead scavenging agents (1,2-Dibromomethane & 1,2- Dichloromethane) in leaded fuel. Might be a good thing to wear a dust mask while cleaning vintage engine parts that were in use during TEL's heyday. Just if anyone had been wondering about the stuff, I was sure curious about it.

You didn't order the wrong vibrator, P-V1015P is correct, the new SS vibrator not working is a sign of insufficient power going to the radio. Voltages below 6vdc are insufficient to power a new solid state vibrator, the old mechanical ones will still work but be inconsistent and at a lower frequency. The new SS vibrator I installed in my radio even had a hard time running off of my 6v car charger when testing, they use 14 amps, and can draw down the voltage in a weak power source.

Does the audio get distorted as the radio fades out? Any hums or noises that appear/disappear when the radio fades and comes back? Also, when it 'cuts back in' is it instantaneous? Do the dash lights for your radio fade significantly or just a little when stopped? Would just be a few clues to the puzzle My gut tells me its the vibrator (if its the old style electro-mechanical one), could be weak.

Just posted a link to a mopar 802 schematic to the pilot-house side of the forum, thought you might be interested: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/959/M0013959.pdf

Also, here is a philco schematic for the mopar 802...if you are interested: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/959/M0013959.pdf

OOOooooh, some sprague bumblebee caps Those are worth a little coin in some gibson and fender circles if they test okay. Definitely a philco set since it uses loctal-8 tubes. Did the lights & tube filaments power up when power was applied or did nothing happen? My 813 had a bad on-off switch on the volume control that I had to bypass, looked like it burned and exploded! Just glad the volume pot. still worked, those are obsolete...

The vibrator should work, the pinout (4-pins) is the same for all negative-ground chrysler applications. Dimensions and current rating are the only variables, you should be fine putting the 819 vibrator into the 802. If you want a solid state vibrator for the radio you will have to purchase it, none were standard for those radios (methinks '55 or '56 was the first year for a SS radio in a mopar). The old electro-mechanical vibrator induces more noise into the system and has a shorter lifespan than the solid state. Some can be found here if you are interested: http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/radio_antique_equipment_parts_0?filters=Type%3DVibrators Some other helpful links if you are tech savvy: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/ http://frank.pocnet.net/ Hope this helps, have fun!

Hmmm, do you have measurements for the speaker (mounting holes and dimensions)? Also what exactly are they doing to the radio? The stock speaker seems to be 2.8 ohms per schematic so if you are just repairing the original audio section, not replacing w/ solid state stuff, you need to match that impedance.

Where in kansas? Gotta love the back-lot and hedge-row treasures to be found here. Surprised to see only two bullet holes in the car, some cars sent out to pasture look worse than bonnie and clyde's ford!

Be aware if you use detergent oil on a original/unmolested engine, my oil was dirty black after about 500 miles (~800km). Might want to check for sludge in your oil pan when you change the oil too (stick your finger or a probe of some sort into the drain hole), I had about 1.5cm of the junk in my oil pan when I dropped and cleaned it. Now going about 2000 miles before it goes black again, I believe that there is still some stuff clinging to the innards of the block. 10w40 sounds like a good choice for your engine, the extra viscosity over 30wt will not hurt. Just food for thought, have fun! ....these cars aren't too fussy.

Very nice lookin' Plymouth! 12v system will definitely fry the 6v filaments in the older bulbs, also be aware if you have any vintage electronics (i.e., radio and such). Good luck with the '51!

I had just stumbled upon mine at a garage sale this weekend, of all places! Thought it would come in handy for a future dual-carb upgrade.

Yup yup, 12vdc would definitely fry the tube heater filaments and cause the 6v vibrator to fail with increased arcing in the contacts along with almost doubling its operating frequency. The Mopar 813 radio has an output voltage of 250vdc at the rectifier, which would be doubled to 500vdc using 12v supply. You'd need a new transformer, vibrator, and to rewire the tubes filaments in series (of two) to get it working in 12vdc.

Quite possibly the green is caused by corroding brass and/or copper parts in the fuel system, fuel is probably really cloudy too due to moisture as well.

Probably assumes 10 because there are 9 more sitting in a hedge row behind his house. They are far from rare imho, they were dodge's base vehicle marked to the economy-minded individual, which alot of people were then and still are now. $3500 might not be bad depending of condition though...

The black could be carbon, since steel is a mixture of iron and carbon and only the iron would leave and travel to the cathode. Could also be iron oxide which is black and possibly an intermediary in the reaction. Also, more plates/higher power supply current will not net you much in terms of speed. The water solution acts as a resistor in electrical terms, and the more washing soda/electrolyte you introduce to it, the less the resistance and the faster the cleaning. Pure water has an infinite resistance. You may set your battery charger to 25 amps but it could only draw 1 or 2 amps depending on the strength of your water solution. If you add enough washing soda to the water, to the point of saturation, that is tantamount to a short circuit and is where you start running into trouble with blown breakers and fried power supplies.

Using baking soda with an acid would defeat the purpose of using an acid, you would still end up with an ionic solution capable of transporting the cations to the cathode though. The acid helps facilitate the decomposition of the surface of the anode which makes the process a fair amount faster. Using halide salts would not interact with the hydrochloric acid, and HCl would provide a free chlorine for transport of the ferric ions. Fe + (Cl-)3 => FeCl3 + 3e- @ the anode, FeCl3 + 3e- => Fe + (Cl-)3 @ the cathode, so the iron would be oxidized at the anode and reduced at the cathode facilitating its transport. Interesting to note the color of Don's water in his picture, kinda green. You can tell the conditions and reactions going on, the green is from ferrous iron (Fe+2) probably in the form of Fe(OH)2 which also means the pH of his water is around 8-9, and the orange precipitate on top is either FeO(OH) or most likely FeCO3.

When I am trying to remove rust or electroplate something, I use a strong acid and a little salt. Usually ice melt or water softener salt (chloride based) and hydrochloric/muratic acid. The salt provides the initial conductivity and the acid helps catalyze the removal and deposition of the unwanted surface material. Also how much baking soda did you use? The more baking soda you have, the faster the process will go and the more bubbles you will see. But get the water too conductive and you might hurt your power supply or blow a breaker

A weak/old fuel pump will definitely exacerbate the problem. A few years ago my engine would cut out/stumble and stall real bad at operating temps, rebuilt the carb and it helped but on the hot days (90+) the problem would show back up. New pump helped bunches, still can see a tiny bit of weeping from the carb on the hot days but causes no ills, outta address it though for safety's sake. When the car was bought it had a 1/2" phenolic spacer which probably aids in decreasing heat transfer.

Looks pretty normal inside, can still see cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. I think that any more disassembling of the engine at this point is probably fruitless, unless you observe something else that I don't. Valves lash (at operating temp), new plugs, and checking fuel sys. from tank-to-carb would seem like more likely culprits to me, regardless of the electric fuel pump. Replacing a gasket and troubleshooting newer or seemingly more reliable parts might cure the problem, and be easier imo. Just advice, i don't like tearing into engines if i can help it Best of luck!

Have the valves been adjusted during that last 40k? Had a 223 Ford that only had 28k from the factory and ran like garbage and progressively got worse at operating temp, turns out the valve clearance was way WAY off. No gap whatsoever on the exhaust side and very little to none in the intake, maybe 0.001-0.004. Compression would be reduced with wearing seats and out-of-spec valve clearances. Something to maybe check before dismembering the engine.

That's one smooth lookin' automobile! Enjoy!

True true, i did not think of that, the resistance would be low through the primary of the coil, if the points were closed it would complete the circuit to ground and yield a low reading at the armored cable. Disconnecting the wire at the coil or making sure the points are open would be a good step in troubleshooting. Checking the resistance across the actual coil would help and isolating the wire and checking it against the armored cable would yield better results. My thinking is steel has a higher resistance per length than copper does, so a value for a short with copper-to-steel conduit, to me, is in the 1-5 ohm range, and a short from copper-to copper is <1 ohm, at least that's what my mistakes with electricity have taught me