bluebanshee

Here is what I did but put the compressor on the bottom. Obviously had to get the correct belt once I could take a measurement.

I did a similar AC only under dash Old Air setup. Can check my thread in the truck forum.

I noticed the same thing with mine. I don't want to snug them too much with 64 year old threads. I used Teflon pipe dope to stop the leak.

Added 16" fan on manual and AC high pressure switch off its own relay. I consider the AC project done. It will now hold 44F idling in the garage at 70 ambient. Water pump is seeping so that's a project for Thursday.

90 out today and on the highway temp gauge is in the middle and the air coming out of the evap is mid 40s. Ended up ordering a 16 electric fan which will be on both a pressure switch and toggle via a relay. Added 5/16 closed cell insulation to the floor and ceiling so that should help a good bit. Might not freeze you out like a new car but is nice and comfortable when it's 90 out.

I have dual carbs and dual exhaust on my 230 (truck) with knock off glass packs. It's not very loud at all with no baffling. If I was to do it over again I'd start off without any muffler/glass pack. Slightly disappointed at the sound or lack of.

Replaced my 12si with a local 10si one wire for $52 +$33 core charge so I got to take it for a test run. As a side note I have 14.5v at idle without having to rev at all to excite the alternator. Lights don't dim a bit at idle when fan is kicked on high. Low 70s sitting idle in the garage for 20 minutes the AC comes out at 50. 30mph 1/4 mile loop the air coming out was in the low 40s. Won't know til it gets 85+ how things work. Temp gauge was near the upper end of normal. The needle was parallel with the right side of the A in HEAT. head temp was about 185 via IR temp gun. This is a bit hotter than it normally runs but my rad was about 3" low too. I'll do a Dawn soap flush and add some water wetter and see if there is an improvement. Still need to add the drain tube on the evap. It produces a significant amount of water.

Thanks. Looking to habe a clean install like that. I'm fairly certain mine is on the same port off the block which would make 0 sense.

Have cold air blowing but alt isn't charging. Need to try a power wire to see if it excites. Need to clean up wiring, add support bracket to the blower and the drain lines. Seems to blow pretty cold. I don't think electric fans are needed. I didn't get over 200psi sitting idle in the garage for 20 mins. At 900rpm idle it will drop to about 650-700 RPM when pump kicks on. I do like a higher idle that spec's to help on all the hills here.

I didn't contact them but that's the generic universal kit that came up on their site. You can pick which compressor and condenser size you want. I got a trinary pressure switch if I need to add an electric fan later. I think the condenser is 21 wide by 16 tall and fits pretty well. Evap, condenser and pump all came either under vacuum or pressure, I couldn't tell. Overall kit seems good but did buy a $150 crimper for the lines and the ends are not complete.

Mind sharing what size fittings you used? PO on mine used ugly hydraulic lines that might be sleeping.

I pay more than that with Hagerty and have an agreed value half that of yours. Sounds like I'm getting ripped off compared to others. No accidents and I have 3 motorcycle on the policy too. Now my 1971 Honda is only $18/year for full coverage.

Hoses are done and partial vacuum applied. Still have all the related wiring to do plus for the alternator. If no leaks I may get it charged up tomorrow.

I got universal brackets for the compressor but the alternator brackets are from stainless plate I had cut with a wafer wheel. It's not perfect because I eye balled most of it and didn't have a marker lol.

Brackets are done, just need correctly bolted up. Condenser brackets and wiring are next.

Comp bracket is done. Have to make a tab to hold the alternator. It will utilize the 4 ears on the compressor and stock adjustment bar for tension.

Got the kit today and figuring out how I'll be mounting it. I have the universal mounts for the compressor that I could weld to to the lower generator bracket. This would give me the ability to tension the main belt with the single mounting point and not using the bar off the water pump. I will still need to make some plates or something for the small ~22" belt from the compressor inner groove to the alternator. Hose kit is uncrimped on one end. It will be very similar to this post:

When I first got my truck going 7+ years ago I Plasti gauged all the crank bearings and they were in spec when I did new crank seals. I also tested compression and it was at least 130psi across all cylinders. I don't recall exactly but it was good. With 71k on the odometer, should I expect that my 230 has been rebuilt to some degree in its life? It does not use any oil or smoke. When I can find my compression tester I'll test I again.

Anyone looking for high end paint that's cheaper than Omni should give SPI a call. Can talk to Barry, the owner, if you have specific questions. Paint costs are out of control. Local jobber sells Omni for what I can get a high solids clear shipped to me that are used on 6 figure restorations. All paint can look good at first, good paint looks like that long term.

I couldn't find the post where someone mounted the compressor to run off the alternator. It will be my second choice if all else fails, only cost to try it is time and possibly a belt. I did see where someone on here tried it off their modified water pump with two groves and it did slip.

Yeah, I will not know until I have the parts in hand to see how they fit. The alternator and AC compressor will require 3-4hp to run at full output so it should not take too much. With a small belt on the alts 2nd grove you'd have about 2/3 contact. Not much room with the engine mount for a belt.

Brad, I have a single groove crank pulley. I may drive the compressor off the 2nd grove on the alternator pulley. I don't see why this would be an issue. It would also allow me to cut/remove the AC belt if I had a pump issue on the road. I plan to mount the compressor directly above the current generator position. I did see another member on here did something similar. I'll have to figure out what to do with the ammeter and plan to re-wire a bit.

Couldn't find much about adding AC on trucks or old Mopar in general. Ordered the Old Air CAP-300 under dash complete kit which should be shipping this week. I'll be switching out my 12 volt generator with a 140 amp alternator. This will future proof if I need to add an electric fan later. Since my L6 did not come with a fan shroud I do not know if I will have the air flow through the condenser. It sure does have some pull on the front of the rad (55-59 K series 3 row). I'll try one of the universal fan shrouds before I go electric. I did request the trinary switch just in case I want to do a relay driven pusher fan later. I have a two groove alt pulley if I need to drive the compressor off the alt. When it gets into the upper 80s it simply isn't enjoyable to drive this truck, looking to change that.

Measured 94 ohm across the terminals. Looks like it's bad, are there any oem type replacements? Maybe a new gauge could be cannibalized for the guys?

Update: I installed a 73-10 ohm sending unit and the gauge goes from empty to just over half tank (when full). At this point I'm not sure if the gas gauge itself is bad. I can't recall now if the gauge ever went to completely full. With the 0-90 ohm sending unit a full tank would put the gauge at empty, and near half I was almost out of gas. Not sure if its worth spending $25 to verify with a cheap gauge or not. I suppose I could test resistance from a pin on the gauge to ground?