Grdpa's 50 Dodge

thanks for all the responses. I found this one on the bay this morning http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=331115874954&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en It is missing the micrometer shaft and the spacer. are those items used to do brakes? Or could I find or make other suitable parts for that? The price SHOULD be much better than a all there one.

Okay, thanks for setting me straight. Does anyone have the model numbers of the exact tool I do need?? I will try to write those down and keep track of them till I find one. Any place better than others where to find one? Was this a Mopar specific tool or did all cars of that vintage need them???

UPDATE!!-- I white lithed the places of pivot I could see in the door cavity on the bottom of the window, and dry lubed the channels on both sides I could get to. Back most of it, front not so much. Going to put new fuzzy on anyway with the new glass so not concerned there. My question today is- the window crank probably has a small gear box behind the immediate crank stem. Do I need to take that out /get inside/ disassemble that to get new grease inside where gears are? And a closer look at the vent window rubber and its harder than a rock. Is new rubber that hard also or is that age factor only??? Todays job I think will be a dry but wet car wash of sorts to wash the 30 years of garage dust off. Its inside a cold garage so thought a big rag and a bucket to wipe off the black into the warm water changing water a few times. least I will be able to see the car then. Cant make a big mess inside the garage Thanks a bunch for all the previous responses,I think It helped a ton to make what feels the right progress forward.

To get on with my brake job I do need one of the brake tools. Is there a difference between the Miller and the Ammco? Will this one work for me? http://www.etoolcart.com/brakeshoeadjustingtoolgauge.aspx or are there any places for used ones? I am sure they dont wear out. I tried E-pay with no results unless I used wrong search words

I have a friend who heats his family house with propane. Since in last few days it has gone nuts....$4.50 to $6 bucks a gallon with 200 gal max and no further for the month. Just wondering if their is any gearhead d-i-y wood heat outdoor furnaces with pipes inside to a furnace A-coil??? Elec heaters arent good either,,,enough of them over load elec system and cause fires This supposed propane shortage is going to be VERY harmful and have long reaching effects Somebody said burning coal is a good deal yet but dont know where they sell it locally

Am looking at Andy Bernbaum's new catalog,,,Page 88 top item Part # U-199 with a price of $110.

Sort of a two part question to get me ready to place my Andy Bernbaum order soon. First off my car has been stored in a hot garage for 30 plus years. I try to roll windows down for first time and its like they are siliconed shut. Working the handle back and forth a 100 times to avoid breaking the crank handle gets them barely rolled down. What to lube to get rolling easier? Ordering window channel and sill fuzzy seals and trim for all windows since mine are not good and dont want a leaker. I see I have an option of chrome window sweeper and channel or non chrome. Mine are non chrome right now,,,but why cant I put chrome covered for window seals. Thinking is chrome cover would keep the sun off direct contact with sealing part. Would it look dumb or cheap? It says I order both in 8 foot lengths,,,any clue how many it may take of each? I looked in all my reference books but it is not addressed as such. 2 door sedan coupe if it matters. My vent window rubber looks good, thinking of leaving as is for now and changing later if needed. Mistake??? Looks like 130 bucks just for vent rubber. But still need "L" shaped fuzzies for large window side of divider Thoughts??Ideas??

That wiring diagram confuses me too. IF you start taking one wire at a time and replacing it as you go. it will all fall into place much easier. Try to get a few different color wires so they dont all blend with one another and maybe use at least a wire size or two bigger as you go especially around the starter and headlights. The wiring diagram is best used as a trouble shooting and reference if you do have a wire missing or a botched former d-i-y former owner cluster truck....Where the wires run together in a line put one of those snap on wire covers to keep it looking tidy and organized. When all else fails or need a shoulder to lean on, let us help if we can. IF everything works now,,,it will work after replacing the wires one-at-a-time Tie old wire to new wire to pull threw where needed.

wow what a sight. Looks like that Plymmy is a tough one and could drive right out of that. Did your insurance treat you right and all was covered? Or did you suffer a loss on top of the loss?

would I rewire a modern car?? Absolutely NOT!!! Have you taken a strong look at how few wires there are? And how simple it really is?

I recall loading coal in the back seat area,,,seat removed. Recall stories of farmers hauling in a couple sows or boars in back seat too, never saw it personally as well as a few sheep to boot. Would need a bunch of air freshner after that one. Probably a hose first

ONLY took two hours???? That would have taken me two weeks ,,,LOL

how long did it take to klean up that huge mess after that huger tornader Bob T??? ALL bets are off when dealing with THAT!!!!Glad your here to join discussion after enduring that nightmare

Northeast nebrakska,,we had those 65 mph wind gusts Larry talked about this week and 2 more days of 40-45 mph steady wind and the rest was just breezy. No snow here tho and thats just fine with me. I find scooping 1/2" of rain is easier than half foot of snow. Pretty darn dry here tho. Another week like this and there wont be any rotten trees here about. it was a tree trimmer with limbs everywhere, even where not supposed to be.

the 'trick' to keeping a shed like that alive is to anchor it down. The screw in anchors they use for holding down mobile homes work well. just a stake in the ground dont hold in spring time or wet periods. I have a skid loader that cant pull a anchor screwed in ground for the mobiles. Same way with those tube and canvas garages they sell. First time or two they may survive,,,but eventually rolling them around breaks all the welds and they end up in the scrap pile. Anchoring them down is the key. Another cheaper way is a post hole digger couple pieces of rebar and a long rod with an eyelet to tie to. Dig hole, put rod and rebar in,,,pour full of wet concrete. Rod should be at least as deep as the hole, little longer lets you place it in the hole.by pressing into bottom soil

If you can get a correct stat in a Failsafe it is a bit of insurance. My understanding is if they overheat they lock open and dont over heat the car. Running with a stuck open stat beats driving with a stuck shut one!!!

forgot to say this is supposed to be the top bar across the top of the grille on a 50 Dodge. It curves around and tucks under the top of the grille by the park lights. It has like 4 bolt retainer clips on back side,,,the one for sale is right only so still would need left.. Other worry is mine is all one piece, left and right.

Looking at a NOS part I think,,,or it says fits my car BUT my parts number book doesnt even list that number. Its part #1346824 my parts book is for 1950 only which may be part of it and seller mislabeled something OR I am blind in one eye and cant see out of the other.

Good plan Joe.You can do it!!! There us a commercial sewing machine about 10 feet west of where I sit right now. bring your fabric and stop by and sew away. Actually stop by your thrift shops and see if they have a cheap heavy duty or commercial sew machine. A regular machine CAN work,,,I will ask the expert sleeping in the next chair when she wakes up. I watched them do several but was 40 to 50 years ago. P was a little younger then. A heavier machine feeds a little better with heavier fabric IF you have a few extra hands to get straight and pulled tight enough. Think hog rings and cheap pliers for them is still available

Just as an addition to this thread Was just talking about this very thing on a different site. Guys were saying how expensive foam rubber for the cushions were,,,and how hard it was to find. My guess is they drove right past all they needed and then some 20 times last year,,,and for free.. Ever saw a curb couch or even a freebee add on craigs list. Unzip the cushion and see whats inside or the stuffing inside a kids or cheapee mattress Putting seat cover in new upholstery is as easy as using the old cover for a 'pattern',,,or make a pattern. Cutting fabric and sewing the corners. If I may be allowed to ask a question is when it comes to interior door panels,,,where do you get the stiff cardboard type board?? AND has anyone ever tried using 'kemlight' panels? Kemlight aka dairy barn liner is a fiberglass/ plastic panel they line refrigerated reefer trailers. Its white orange peel texture on one side and smooth white on the other. When you cut it you itch a little like installing insulation. Easy to shape and cut/trim and durable. it wont suck up moisture or delam rot like the real cardboard type I would surely agree with OP as that price would instill sticker shock here. I realize it is prob a real good price for a custom job,,,,wish I had taken up that hobby in my younger years.

In persective tires were changed every 8 to 10 K miles. Radials changed all that,,,besides the fact of you generally had a flat tire at least once or twice a week. If you picked up a nail it was flat in a few minutes,,,not a few months like radials. Always can remember a phone being in home,,,long short long ring was our ring tone,,,neighbors listened to everything ever said on phone. Was fortunate to have running water in house cause our house was moved in in 1946 with a new foundation for an old house. Actually it was recyled,,as it was a school and a church in its former life,very long and skinny. electricity was a bulb hanging down from center of room on that funny twisted wire cord with a turn strange switch on the wall. IF any thing was plugged in it came from the top side of that ceiling bulb with a little extension cord. Can recall getting first TV and the day the team of work horses left for good. As said you drove to town, to church, and back home,,,used very little gas cause never went any where. When got old enough to actually stop at a hamburger place the 19 cent hamburgers were a strange meal with those funny fry things. 3 hamburgers 2 fry and a malt was like about $1. Talk about the dollar menu. I still eat the cheapie burgers when I drive thru every 6 months or so Like said a car with 80K and surely before 100K it was considered toast. Roads were impassable muddy sloppy, or flooded. County here still abides by old rule of MUST HAVE 3 mudholes per mile. Where they drive around the mudholes when maintaining roads. All our highways into our town was gravel except one One major highway was hardly driveable during few months a year.It was raised 3 times that I can remember

I polished up the stainless trim and it looks a lot better. The rest of the window surround is wood grain look and where the window sill is for lack of better term,,,where you would rest your arm on an open window,,, It looks like somebody poured coke on it 40 years ago and dried in a dirty crusty stuff. Tried wet wash cloth for a long time,,no better,,,tried simple green,, no progress,,,then tried a plastic scrubber pad and it took a little off. Rubbed longer and it looks like it is pitted thru,,,and pin hole spots of brown paint is showing like bare metal. Is that a sign the metal is bubbling and rusting from under the paint??? Other side is painted nicely and not rusting clear thru whole thing. It just LOOKS like this rough patches should just scrub off but it doesnt want to. it is off the car for best look I can get The scrubber pad isnt scratching the paint so thought it was okay. Any one else have roughness patches that LOOK dirty???

If they have any weatherstrips and door fuzzies for a 2 door clup coupe of 1950 vintage. including windsheild seals. Trunk seal. Anything with a seal in it I probably need (except motor). That would include the vent seal also

Hang in there Old Daddy,,,we NEED ya. Ed, your year HAS to get better, if you have to replace water heater get those lifetime one. Bet your sink is on outside wall with pipes inside the wall. get all the styrofoam you can betwen pipes and sheathing. Spray foam the cracks to make it draft free. Even if you have to demo some drywall under there.

Guy wants a reasonable price for passenger door glass. Car is in dark garage with 30 years of dust on windows. Is there an easy method to determine IF windows are tinted? or clear? I am replacing only 2 so not matching would not be good. One of which is drivers windsheild.. think I will break out the Windex tommorrow