Duskylady

The ‘41 is the same! It has a heat shield as well. I will try rerouting the field line if this wrap doesn’t do the trick. Thank you!

Update: As with most projects there is never enough time to do all the things. We are remodeling our house but I did tinker with the car a bit. Put some heat shield on the fuel line and ordered an online fuel pump (haven’t had time to install). Seems there are more issues I need to dig into. Now it’s not getting any fuel to the carb, perhaps this was the culprit previously and not vapor locking. I will post an update when I figure it out. Thank you all again for all the help!

Thank you all for the good solutions and links. I’m finding parts to order right now. I’m probably going all out to squash this problem with an electric fuel pump, line wrap and split manifold. And my husband said to try wooden clothes pins on the fuel line while I’m waiting for parts.

I do have the stock shield and heat riser.

Is it like the wrap for headers?

Honestly, I will be trying the electric fuel pump AND the wrap. It sucks getting stranded. This car is supposed to be the grocery getter. Doesn’t do a good job if all the ice cream melts. Thank you all for the advice!!! I will reply here on the outcome. Now off to the interwebs!!!

That might work. Did you convert to 12 volt? This ‘41 is still all original 6 volt. We did an electric pump with a return line to the tank in our ‘47 but it has a bored out 350.

Greetings all! Does anyone have ideas on a solution for vapor locking? I was out driving my ‘41 with stock flathead 6 today in 90° weather. I parked for about 20 minutes to grab groceries. Tried to start the car and no go. Carburetor wasn’t getting any fuel. Fuel pump looked full from underneath. The engine bay was screaming hot. I’m assuming it was vapor locked. The car sat for about an hour while I walked to get a gas can and some starting fluid. (Seems regular grocery stores don’t carry that stuff anymore and neither do small gas stations). The engine cooled off a bit. I sprayed some starting fluid in the carb with a few pumps of gas and she fired up.

Does anybody have good sources on parts for the stock brakes on my 1941 sedan? I checked into Andy Bernbaum but wondering if there are other options in a reasonable price range. I would like to do all the hardware, wheel cylinders, master cylinder and shoes. Part numbers would be fabulous if anyone has some! Many thanks!

A punch and hammer *tink*. Plug came out! Thanks again for all the advice!

I did not see any weld threads from the bottom. It’s smooth. Sounds like I should go with that port rather than modifying the pan. I will take a peek at the old engine to see which dipstick was in there that I will be reusing. Thank you for all the help. I will let you know how it turns out.

I did not see any weld threads from the bottom. It’s smooth. Sounds like I should go with that port rather than modifying the pan. I will take a peek at the old engine to see which dipstick was in there that I will be reusing. Thank you for all the help. I will let you know how it turns out.

That’s a great question. How to I know and how do I get it out? It’s not threaded. Apologies for being a newb.

I think it already has a breather on the other side. I guess two wouldn’t hurt.

To drill or to weld, that is the question. I am still working on my engine replacement in my 1941 Plymouth Sedan. The replacement engine is a tad newer and out of a truck. I found that the oil pan is different, front sump and I need a rear sump. Here is where I am stuck; the incorrect oil pan has a dipstick in it, the block does not. Do I try to modify my correct oil pan and weld a dip stick in it or do I drill out the port in the engine that’s been welded shut? Is it okay/safe to drill the block?