50 coupe

Oh yeah. Backed off the adjusters, removed the nuts on the achor bolts and knocked them in. Loosened the axle nut and did a few figure eights in the barn yard. the who sha-bang. At this point I am o.k. with swapping for a newer rear axle. In the long run, modern brakes, easier to replace. Probably a higher gear for highway crusining and if I decide to upgrade the engine, it will handle it.

Dodgeb4ya - that may have been the issue, I bet the compressor I was using was puting out mayber 125psi max. The impact was a rental, one of those heavy-ass deals used on semi's. Jersey - how much heat?? Did you get the hub area to a dull red or cooler?

OK, spent two sundays banging, pulling, using puller tool and 1in impact. No joy. Guess it is time for plan B. Rear end swap. I see lots of good info on this site already. Time to play in some junk yards!

Thanks guys for all the replies. Yes, I was striking properly on the dog bone, not the end of the tension bolt that presses on the axle end. Also, made sure that 3 prongs were bolted secure and flat against the drum. Since my car is stored about an hour away from home I don't get much time to work on it so I was pressed for time. I'm gonna rent the tool again this weekend and maybe that 1inch impact since I have an adequate compressor at the location. For whatever reason the parking brake lever is stuck, even after loosening the brake from around the drum on the drive train so I can't use it to stop rotation. I guess the tranny clutch may be slipping allowing the drum to turn but there should be enough resistance to pop the brake drums. I'll try it with the tranny in reverse when doing the right side. Having so much fun!

Well, if I can't hit the end of the tool, I guess I should just twist it off. Has anyone had success with a 1'' air impact wrench?

1940 Plymouth - that's pretty much the tool I was using and had the castle nut backwards also. Did you guys have the transmission in gear when banging away? My drum turns some with each blow so didn't know if the lack of resistence was making it more difficult. Also, I know the recomendation is against using heat. If anyone has done so, what heat range is o.k. Just turning red maybe?

I rented the puller from a tool rental place. I looks just like the one pictured in the tech article about brakes found here on this site. I'll rent again for next weekend. I didn't have a proper sledge but was using a piece of a 2 inch by 18 inch steel bar that wieghed about 10 pounds. Just feels kind of strange banging that hard on something that is part of the drive train. Wondering if using reverse might prevent the drum on the right rear from turning forward.

I have a 50 Plymouth Business Coupe and need to redo the brake system. Trying to the get the rear drums off. So far, sprayed them down with PB blaster, backed off the minor adjusters and removed the nuts from the pad anchor bolts and knocked them in toward the drums, backed up the axle nuts and did some figure eights in the yard. Banged away with the drum puller tool, all to no avail at this point. Question, when using the drum puller, the brakes are loosened enough that the drum will turn so at one point I put the tranny in gear but the drum will still turn some when striking the tool. I only did this a few times because I didn't know if doing this with the car in gear would damage any drive train components. Should I have the car in gear when doing this or not? I think I was using third gear, maybe 1st or reverse would provide more resistance? What would you suggest at this point. Thanks.

No they didn't. I asked if there was a tank they recomended for my model car but they didn't have one to recomend. Don't know if the Chevy tank would fit any better than the Ford, unless you have heard that it does. What kind of alignment issue with the Ford tank are you referrencing? Is the filler neck the issue? Can you use some of that flexible steel exhaust tubing?

I ordered the55-56 Chevy tank from Tanks Inc. with the appropriate 10-70 ohms sending unit. The next day Tanks Inc. called to inform me that the Chevy tank does not have a bung to attach the fuel line to and must be used with the 55-56 Chevy sending unit and built in pickup. The Chevy sending unit is not the appropriate ohm range for my car. I thanked them for their follow up and really appreciate that they called me vs just sending it out to me! I changed my order to the 49-51 steel Ford tank, which has the pickup I can attach a fuel line to and use the 10-70 ohm sending unit. So far I am very impressed with Tanks Inc. service. Just wanted to share.

Wow Reg, that is pure inspiration!

Thanks TodFitch and Alshere59, I have read both your previous threads in researching this and was thinking the same. I looked at the Jeep tank but thought the Chevy tank would be a better fit. I can make the generic sending unit fit the Chevy tank, just wonding if it was a direct 'bolt in' but can make it work if it isn't.

I have found lots of good info here about these items but haven't found the answer to my particular question. My car (1950 Ply Business Coupe) came without the gas tank or fuel gage sending unit. I believe I will go with the 55-56 Chevy steel tank, unless anyone has reason I should use something else, but not sure what fuel gage sending unit I should use. I know my car originally had the 1 wire electro magnetic unit. I will keep the car 6 volt so should I order a repop 1 wire unit or would this be an issue with the 55/56 chevy tank? If so, what is my alternative?