nates1947

Hey all...I'm going to bring this thread back from the dead with a stupid tech question. I started to swap my springs last night using the Aerostar conversion. I however did not read here first so I seperated my spindle from the top bolt not the bottom...My question is actually related to the re-assembly. This is my first time doing a job like this on a car without ball joints. I'm trying to find some type of torque spec for the upper "spindle bolt" (I'm betting there is a better term but that's what I'm calling it for now). I will try to attach pictures. My concern is over torquing the bolt side being that it threads through the upper control arm. Anyone out there have some helpful suggestions? Thanks in advance! -Nate

I had to use their catalog, and also think I used and SKF catalog the same way to find a seal by dimension to fit my one front hub that was a different size! Worked great. This can keep the counterman at Autozone from looking at you like a moron when you ask for bearins for a P-15. I like to take those numbers and cross refrence them on rockauto.com and you can find other manufacturers part numbers and sometimes find cheaper one!

mrwrstory your tach looks good up there! Please ingnore my crusty chrome but here's my gauges. The dash is painted black and I have done a rattle can resto on the radio. I took the crusty old ignition and knob panel that hangs under the radio from the box o parts my uncle was scrapping with the car and re-purposed it as a switch panel too.

When I got my car the gauges had been removed and aftermarket vintage style Autometers were installed but they buthchered the opening, so I bought another on Flea-Bay and re-did it over again. Please ignore the crusty chrome but its all I could afford! I will preface this by saying this does require removing some steel from the dash but all behind the trim. I also removed the screws that hold the trim on and replaced it with studs. So it all slid in and nutted from behind, nice and easy. I also still have my stock gauges and I'm going to offer them up for sale here soon. They are missing one gauge(fuel I think). Any way nice thread you all got going here!

Here's a link to a hidden radio tech thread I did on the HAMB. It worked great for me, and its awesome to see the look on peoples faces when you turn on you're "stock" radio in a modified 12v hot rod! I think theres a youtube link toward the end of the thread that shows it in action. I've got it all finished up and been driving it for a few weeks and I'm really enjoying it! If you do it this way no one can tell its not the stock radio! I'm sure you all could put you're own touch on it and make it work with a bluetooth adaptor and an amp. I just didn't want the amp laying in the trunk or under the seat! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=800175 Thanks for the tips on the floor mounted MC I really want to do away with the ugly firewall mounted 80's GM MC thats been on the car since I got it!

Yep thats it! I'm assuming its a reverse thread, which would explain why I couldn't get it off? or is it just that damn tight?

Sorry to bring up old stuff...but I didn't want to start a new thread for no reason...when this one looks to cover a lot of ground already! My 47 box has the cap over the mesh load screw, and I'm wondering how to remove this cap. I was reading a thread on here earlier and it sounded like it had to be pretty much destructed to get it off? If thats the case where do I get a new one? Thanks for the help in advance! -Nate

I have this same cap on my 47 P-15 box, so how does one go about removing this cap?

Well I just spent the last hour or so on the Timken website and found a seal thats very close to the right dimensions...like .002 Inches bigger OD so I'm crossing my fingers. the part number crossed over to a new Infinity G35 seal, so I still have no idea whats going on with that seal but it only cost around $5 on rockauto so if it works I'm gonna stock up on em! I did find a Desoto hub seal with the same OD as the hub I've got , but a much smaller ID as if the spindle was alot smaller diameter. I'm thinking back in the 80's someone switched the hub for what ever reason, and just found a seal that fit this same seal was used in mid 80's izzuzu 4x4's. The seal that came out is nitrile material and so is the one I ordered but I did find one made of steel, so I might order it if this fits. Thanks again and keep you're fingers crossed!

I'm wondering if they switched out the hub at some point to do away with the reverse thread wheel studs? I'm not sure. I think I have pics somewhere I'll see what I can find if not I'll try to get some on here! I'll look into the later 50's dimensions. I just spent 2 hours looking at seal dimensions for Plymouth, Dodge, and Desoto cars and trucks from the late 30's to 50's and haven't found that size yet. Thanks for the help so far!

BTTT!

So I got the drivers side together no problem all the part numbers were spot on, but the passenger side hub Inside Diameter is smaller and the seal isn't even close. The O.D. of the spindle is the same, but the bearings and seals just aren't gonna work! The seal that came out was plastic and there was nothing legible on it. I took measurements, and the closest thing I and NAPA can find is Napa Oil Seal no. 17280 I.D.1.75", and O.D.2.41". and it was a touch too small and fell right into the hub opening. The drivers side took seal no. 5836 I.D. 1.734" and O.D.2.73". Anyone got any suggestion or have any idea why these 2 hubs were different sizes. I'm assuming someone pulled this hub off some other early Mopar vehicle, but I damn sure can't figure it out! I've also got a full set of bearings that I can't use and haven't even addressed that issue yet. However they were in good shape, and have good numbers on them I think 15123, and 09067 if I'm reading my notes correctly! Thanks in advance for any help! Nate If I can't find any good seals I'm gonna have to find a new hub, so I may be in the market for one of those as well!

Correct it is my car! However, I do have a very good idea what does go into the engineering of a caliper bracket. Not I don't know cad well enough to draw it my self but he gentleman who was going to cut it for me however did. I'm not an idiot, I work in the automotive industry and work within "4 decimal places" every day of my life! I wound up using the explorer conversion patern that another member developed and was cool enough to share. I looked at your kit and would have probably bought it a year or so ago if I could have afforded it. So far by choosing my parts and the place I purchase them carefully I have managed to find the steel to cut my brackets (by hand at work) for 50$ then I sold the remaining chunk to my buddy for a project he has for 25$. I bought my rotors, bracket bolts, loaded calipers and hoses from rockauto.com for a grand total of 115$ plus another 16$ in bolts from Fastenal. So by my math I have all the parts I needed for less than the cost of your brackets, and I didn't have to machine my hubs or drill out my steering arms like some of the other kits. In all actuality I could have litteraly done the whole install in about 3 hours. Trust me it didn't go down with out a hitch but I will never put the car on the road if I'm not 100% satisfied with the safety. Please don't mistake me I don't have any personal problem with you or your kit. In fact quite the opposite I have recomended your kit to several people on the HAMB (I actually think its quite reasonably priced for a kit). I didn't want to stir the pot but some of us really need to keep the word "budget" in budget build. I realize you've put your heart and soul into your work, but you don't need to sell me short or talk me down! I guess you probably do have to deal with alot of people who don't know their *** from a hole in the ground and maybe thats the reason for the animousity! Sorry for the rant!

I'm also looking for an extra grill! I have about half of the stainless but as you can see from the picture below I'm more concerned witht the sheetmetal for the opening. My uncle who I got the car from was doing a custom kind of thing and shaved all the trim, and cut down the grill opening. I would really like to go back to the stock size grill opening. All of the fenders and body lines have been welded together so I'm not too worried about the body work either! I recognize alot of you guys from the HAMB, but if you're interested in my car and its story I have it posted up on the HAMB my over there is n847 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=471353

So true..In all honesty I wasn't even alive in 73...but I have been going to the local NAPA with my dad since I was in diapers and I remember thats how it used to be. In all fairness even the good ones can't remember it all like they used to because they have so many more cars and parts in their catalogs but at least they can try and or care!