Jims50chrysler

Good Job Joe, very inspirational it will be a bit before I get to doing something with mine. Jim

Hey everyone I have been working on this and thought someone else might need it as well. Just trying to give back Jim ohh is that ever crappy...I could email it if anyone wants it

Pat: your parts car looks better than some of the start with around here....lots of rust in Ontario. Jim

That Steering wheel is fantastic Pat S. but I am sure it is out of my price range...I wonder what would be involved in doing it myself?? as far as repair procedures I find it very usefull to manufacture the parts out of cardboard first for example in the wheel well I would make the bottom piece out of cardboard (easy enough) then I would make each side by tracing a garbage can lid or something that would give me the proper radius for the bottom of the spare tire well once I was satisfied with the "fit" I would then manufacture the parts out of steel and weld them together to make the repair panel. another thing that I would check is Princess Auto up here has a selection of trailer fenders perhaps one of these turned upside down might be enough to do the trick. I have used the old cardboard trick lots of times to build very complex pieces I think the toughest parts were the front sections of rocker box for my '46 Ford I had to buy one from Bitchin products then make my template for the other one off of that one, another part was the dog-leg in the bottom of the "A" pillar on the same car that was a tough one but it came out pretty good. Hope something here will help Jim

I am thinking of going with the blue again but it likely won't see good paint untill next year sometime I am just looking to get it on the road for a bit in the summer to get all the bugs worked out then back into the shop for a proper body and paint over next winter. Norm's coupe as I said earlier this car is in fantastic shape and you are right it won't take very long to fix the floors this is alot better than my '46 ford that I had I spent a year just putting in floors including jacking up the body and replacing the rocker boxes then I spent an afternoon putting carpet over them...alot of unappreaciated work under that carpet. Pat S. you have a diffrent rear window, mine has two chrome bars running down them my license plate mounts on the rear bumper the trim and taillights are a bit diffrent and mine has skirts but you are right your car is pretty much the same thing probably alot of parts will interchange.....(hmmm hows your steering wheel? ) Jim

Got them thanks Tim JIm

Thanks Skip: all the pad lengths were the same....thats 1 more job done. Jim

Well I am thinking about getting rid of the well all together for a couple reasons 1. it is alot easier to get rid of it then rebuild it. 2. It will allow me to relocate the tank and give me room to run dual exhaust on each side of the gas tank. Here is a pic of the left side of the trunk it is going to require some work funny thing is other than a small hole on the drivers floor the floors are in fantastic shape, still has factory paint on most of it and it is shiney. the other pic is of the dreaded steering wheel and (other than where I ripped up the carpet to look at the floor) the usable interior.

Pretty hard to take Pics in the garage but kinda gives an Idea of what I am working on. Jim

Good day everyone: So I was replacing my rear brake shoes today and noticed a "BR" and "BL"stamped on the side of the metal shoes my guess was if you are looking at the backing plate "BL" would go on the left and "BR" would go on the right side after I got one side done I started to second guess myself (I hate that) and was thinking that mabey "BR" was meaning that the shoes go on the back right side of the car and "BL" are for the left side of the car....I finished my day starting to remove the old wire harness. any advice on the brake shoe location? Thanks Jim

Hey Bill: I finaly remembered to check the engine number on my car it reads M11490C and it is stamped into the block and it is the long block engine. Jim

The only way it could be any better is if you were sandblasting my stuff . Merry Christmas Joe. Jim

Thanks Ed. I orderd one just now I will let everyone know what it looks like when I get it....can't beat the price if it works. (might have to figure something out for the flashers though) Jim

The re-wiring does not bother me as a matter of fact I kind of enjoy doing it, I have done a few cars before this one. on my 46 ford I took a harness from a 73 to 87 Chevy truck and modified it to fit in worked real good too it had a plug in the firewall to isolate the outside wires from the inside wires and on the inside of that plug was the factory chev truck fuse panel. As mentioned earlier this will not work for my 6 volt system due to the size of the wire. I will end up wiring from scratch and princess auto was store of choice for the wire it sure would be nice to come up with a "factory" looking fuse panel but failing that I will have to make a trip to radio shack. when I do get started I will take some pics to show the progress with the digital camera that I....... my wife is getting for christmas:) Jim

First of all I want to wish everyone a Merry Christmas. I was thinking over the holidays I would start to rewire the old car I went throught the schematics and sorted out the gauge and color wire I would require and was planning on picking up what I could tomorrow while I was scouting out a fuse panel I came across this place http://www.ezwiring.com/ and started to think this might be the way to go. I am looking at the ez mini 20 Has anyone used these harnesses before? I did notice that there is only one wire for the for an alternator so I would have to do something for the other wire on the generator. For those of you that have wired your own cars from scratch, what did you do for your fuse panels?

Well like I said, my Grandkids will have seatbelts as I could not live with myself if I was responsible for injuring them or worse. I might even put seatbelts in the front of the car as well.....while I hate the fact that my freedom to choose as been taken away by our "capatalist" government the "practical" side of me sees the potential benifits. I hope I don't get any more "practical" with age though...next I will be sleeping with a gun under my pillow Just in case... wearing condoms full time just to be safe.....circle the block before we pull into the driveway just to make sure no one is following:D Jim

Thanks Guys Not that car seats were a big problem back in the day but for some reason I think I won't mind having to use them again Besides it's not everyday that I will have to use them anyway. Jim

I was sooo glad when the Kids were big enough to get rid of the car seats out of my cars, I had to manufacture mounts in my '46 Ford for my youngest boys and it looks like my Chrysler is going to get a set as well. My daughter just had a Baby boy this morning (her second) so I guess I had better work the mounts into the plan. (better start flaming up a car seat as well) Jim

Hi Bob Are the dimensions of your 8 cylinder seals 2.125 X 3.350 X .375? Jim

Hi Jon Here is a bit of info http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=6778 unfortunatly I could not get the seal out without destroying it and it appears that the bearing will just come out over the pinion shaft (I will try next time I am in the shop) I can't imagine how you will get the race out. there is also a thread on pinion seal part #'s you might find usefull. Jim

Yes Normspeed my part guy takes returns ...even if it's my fault (it has alot to do with how much money I give him every year ) Thank you all for you help on this topic the seal that I got (the right one) is a Federal-Mogul part #473240. Jim

thanks Bob I will throw these numbers out to my parts guy today...I am sure this will help a lot Jim

Hi Bob I have a 50 chrysler windsor club coupe with the fluid drive transmission. Jim

Well I got a pinion seal today.....it's not the right one even though the listing says it is for those years, I suspect they are for the limo and such as it is larger than the one that I need. For refrence it is a Federal Mogul seal part #413469 and the dimensions are 2.125 X 3.350 X .375 when I do get the right one for my car I will post the part number in this thread. BTW my seal dimensions are 1.875 X 3.125 X .375 Jim

Hi Bill: "11490" is stamped on the engine...I will double check to see if there is anything before it next time I am in the shop. Thanks for all the other information that will be very helpfull. Jim