splat1955

hmmmm....upon closer inspection, I do have the figure 8 lock covers...and they are cool!

Hey Pat, thanks again for the info....I think I am going to give it a try. Hey, did you have any problem finding that bushing...or is there anyone you would recommend?

Hey Thanks Shel....and Pat....I never even considered that someone may have a totally different numbering system or be looking in a Chrysler manual....Sorry...I should have posted a pic like Shel did. Okay, anyway, so you think it's safe to pull that bushing? Cause that's what I'd like to do.....Anyone else feel like chiming in? I'd sure like to get a lot of feedback on this one. I think Pats right, but the manual is kind of confusing on the whole issue...they talk about replacing the whole control arm and the steps for replacing the bushing if going that route. And they talk about just putting the whole thing back together....again, if the control arm is out..but nothing specifically on just replacing one bushing. I'm a little hesitant about just yanking it out of there.

Hey Pat, Hmmmm, not sure we are talking about the same bushing......There is no other side on mine...I mean to say, that the lower control arm bar has a bushing on one side, and a bushing on the other....with the bar in between... Maybe I'm reading what you wrote wrong? I'm looking at my manual, page 13.....and part # 4 is the bushing I want to remove while everything else is still together. Is it possible to remove that bushing, then put it back in without any special tools or doing anything else....or even putting in a new bushing. I guess I should first ask if you have a manual to see what I'm talking about.....sorry.

Hey guys, I know some of you have gone through your suspension....and I have a question. The front lower control arm bushing on the drivers side of my Dodge had a grease zerk on it. Not like one that can be removed with a socket, but looks as though it was part of the bushing. The one on the rear of the drivers side is the same. On my passengers side lower control arm, the bushings have removeable zerks...just like most zerks I have seen, and just like the rest of the zerks on my suspension. Anyway, as I said, the bushing on the drivers side lower control arm, the front bushing had a zerk..but it's been broken off...I didn't do it....but I tried to get some grease in there and most of it came right back out at me. My question is....without tearing the control arm out and messing too much with the pivot bar, and since the bushing will accept a socket, can I back that bushing out do what work I need on it...maybe drill, tap and screw in a new zerk? Or can I buy a new bushing and just thread it in? I've got the car in the air right now, with the lower control arms disconnected from the steering knuckle support cause I pulled me springs to do some work, so now is the best time for me to tackle this problem. Or, am I stuck with that bushing until I go through the whole front end. I might be able to tap and install a zerk while it's still in the control arm, but taking it out would make it a whole lot easier. Any suggestions would really be appreciated. Thanks guys.

Hey Reg, I lost the link to that part, but if I remember right, I think the guy said it was a front piece.

Thanks Shel & Reg...........I saw the piece, and it didn't look quite the same as the ' 46-'48' bumpers I'd seen, but just wanted to make sure. Hey Reg....I'm in Pollock Pines.........not too far from you. Was it you who wrote to me a month or so ago about my '48 being for sale?

Can anyone confirm that this part # 953800, is for 1 piece of the 3 pc front bumper of a '42 Dodge. Also, does anyone know if the ' 42 bumpers are the same as the '46 though '48? I've hunted for pics, but haven't really found any pics that show the bumper clear enough to see if they are the same....Thanks.

Okay, well, with the cylinder out, I am able to stick my finger through the door and up against the little access hole where the screw was...but there is nothing there.....So, yeah, I see what your saying, if there were like a threaded tube or something inside that access hole, then the screw would thread into that tube or clip and then against the lock cylinder....but there is nothing there...which makes me really wonder what's at the bottom of the door. I don't think I can resist....maybe I ought to pull the molding and panel today. I'm gonna go do that and see what I find.

Well, it looks like I'm destined to be confused a little bit longer...The screw is now at the bottom of the door so I probably won't get to pull the garnish molding and door panel till the weekend...although I might get to it tomorrow, but I will tell you what I did find out. In answer to your question, the screw was actually not flush with the door jamb, but inside a little ways. It did break loose easily enough and while I was removing it, I could see that the threads on the screw looked good...so I'm hoping the treads inside whatever it was in are good. Again though, the screw and what ever it went inside is at the bottom of the door so naturally I was able to pull the cylinder out. I've added a pic below....sorry about the quality, but in the pic, you can see the shiny round spot where I believe the screw was hitting the cylinder when screwed all the way in. But you can also see like a vertical groove toward the business end of the cylinder, kind of like a retaining clip would have been in. Now, when the screw fell I think what ever it was in fell to the bottom of the door with it. But I believe you are right, that someone just stuck in something that fit. It may even be that the shiney spot on the cylinder is not from the flat head screw, but the original allen head screw cause I got the feeling when I was playing with the screw that it was not bottomed out against the cylinder and that maybe the shoulder of the screw bottomed out before even touching the cylinder. If that's the case, then I need to get the correct allen head...does that sound reasonable? Not knowing what the screw was threaded into because all that is at the bottom of the door, I am just guessing. I wish we had something like that picture above that was more complete and showed all the parts pertaining to that screw and how it locks down the cylinder. Anybody?

Hey Bob....thanks for the pic. My manual doesn't even show a breakdown of the door mechanisms like yours does. And unfortunately, my manual is also very vague as to the description of the set screw. What my manual says is there is a " set screw cover " and a " set screw". I had pictured in my head a little cover that went over the " set screw " hole...but when I looked at the door yesterday, there is nothing as far as a cover....nor did I see where a cover would go. No room....as the set screw hole is behind the door weather stripping. So, I am thinking that the flat head screw that is in my drivers door " set screw hole" may be the " cover that they are talking about in the manual...and that under that screw would be the allen head screw that sets the lock cylinder to keep it from moving. My passenger side door did not have the flat head screw, but I could see the allen head...and that lock cylinder is good and tight in the door. So, today I will pull out that flat head screw on the drivers door, and hopefully I will find that the allen head " set screw " set screw is missing...and I'll be able to find one to replace it. Anyway, can anyone else chime in on this and confirm that the flat head screw is just a cover for the allen head set screw?

Thanks James & Dennis.........I appreciate the info.

Hey, can anyone here tell me how to contact George Asche? I read in a post from this past March that he does work on exhaust manifolds. But I can't seem to find him in the member list. Not sure that he is a member. Any help would be appreciated.

Oh..Okay, to confirm, are you guys saying that there shouldn't be a standard flat head screw in the drivers door....it should be a small allen head screw? And because it is what it is, it may not be reaching far enough in to set the lock tight? If that's the case, then maybe I will pull the flat head screw all the way out, take a look and maybe be able to find an allen head screw to fit. I have found since I got the car, that many things are loose....I think because the car was in the process of being restored before I got it and whoever did the resto work just never got around to tightening screws and stuff. Everything I've touched needed something. Lots of screws missing in all the window trim, although it's been painted....stuff like that. So, anyway, can someone confirm that there should not be a " flat head " screw as a set screw for the lock? Thanks again guys.

Okay guys........Will go out there and get some pics...although it may not be until next week. Theres even an early 40's Packard sitting with those other 3...will get some pics of it as well.

Hey Guys........thanks for all the info....But I think I should explain a little better. I haven't had any problem with the allen head screw yet, only because I haven't messed with it. Let's start with the drivers door, cause the passenger side lock is fine...at least for now cause it's good and tight in the door. But the drivers side is loose. Now, the screw that I thought was the set screw(the one that holds it tight in the door somehow) is the flat head screw. On the drivers side there is a flat head type screw....and I can already tighten it or loosen it. But neither action makes the lock tight in the door. Do I need to pull that screw out ? On my passenger side door, there is no flat head screw....but I can see a very small allen head screw...I think. So, my question, what is the deal with the flat head screw on my drivers door.....do you guys have that screw or has someone added this?

Okay......let's see if I can explain the problem I'm having. I've read my manual on this subject a few times, but to be honest, it's confusing me...and it don't take much. On my drivers front door, the lock is loose...jiggles around. I can lock it and unlock it, but like I say, it's loose. So, after reading the manual, I understood it to read there is a screw, access to it in the door jamb, for setting the lock...to keep it in place. So, behind the weatherstip I found the the hole and the screw....and the screw is tight....but the lock is loose. I went to the passengers side to see what it looked like, found the hole but can't see a set screw in it...but that lock is tight. I'm trying to save myself from taking the door panel off, but if I have to, well then I have to. But was hoping someone could enlighten me. Oh, one more question. Is removing the door panels pretty much like any other......remove the door handles, arm rest, window crank...and then pull the door panels....or do I have to remove any trim? Thanks guys.

Happy B-day Ed.......Looks as though by the smile on the your faces, it's been a good run for you and the misses thus far. I hit 52 this past July.....and the 70's, they rocked!.....of course until they didn't anymore. And ya know.....I realized on my b-day, that theres a real good chance, that I might still have enough in me to do 1 or 2 cars more cars.....the good lord willing. Anyway, again, Happy B-day!

Hey guys, It's been a lot of years since I've been to a wrecking yard....probably 25 or so. But we've only lived up here for a little over 5 years and there isn't much up here. Anyway, today I did go to a yard. Not a lot there, but they did have a Mopar section....mostly cleaned out. But there was a Chrysler, not sure of the year....I'd guess early '50's...maybe a NY'er...There was also a Cranbrook...not sure of the year again, but I'd have to say early 50's as well...and then a Plymouth that may be a P-15. It looked like a lot of the pics I've seen here but it was a 4 dr. They had all been pretty well stripped, although the bodies were pretty complete. I can't really tell you what was still left on each car but I may be going out there again next week so if anyone wants me to check for anything, let me know. Or, what I'll do is take pics of the cars, that way, you guys that know these cars better can I.D. them......then if anyone is interested, I can go see what's left. Anyway, just thought I'd let ya know about these 3.

I too used one on the crank of the 225 V6 original motor for my '69 Jeepster Commando. It worked like a charm....first time I'd ever used one and I'd use one again!

Thanks Marty & Greg........Will check Langdons...

Excellent info Dennis! Thanks a bunch...now I understand the nail.....and yeah, I'd like to get them to work....I may try to pull one out...gently....just to see if they can be reused...if not, then I guess I might find access to the area under then nail where?...I've never really gotten into this area of the car yet.....only had it about 3 weeks but am learning from you guys on a daily basis...again, thanks. Brian

Hey Marty.....saw the pics of your engine.....very nice! So, I did a google search and found a " Phillips Performance"........got a web page that said the site was under construction. They did have a contact link and emailed, but got back an " undeliverable " error after sending. Seems the email address is no good. Do you have any contact info I might try? Thanks. Brian

Thanks Bob......You know, I did notice what looked like " nail heads" into the cowl and suspected they might have held something there. Some of the heads are up an 1/8 of an inch or so.....others are flush with cowl. Once I have found the lacing, do I pull those nails out and reinstall them? Or do I have to purchase new? Haven't really seen these before so I have no idea. Also, who or what is Roberts...do they have a website or is it an individual. I'd really like to get the lacing hoping that will make that end of the hood line up flush with the cowl. Any info is apprecaited....Thanks. Brian

I've noticed that both sides of my hood sit low up along the edge closest to the windshield along the cowl. Looking at both the hood edge and where it sits it looks as though there should be some kind of rubber or weather stripping along that edge. I can't seem to find anything in manual about it. I've got the rubber bumpers along the edge that sits on the fenders so that edge sits fine and the body lines are good..but the rear edge sits low. Can anyone tell me either if there should be some kind of rubber or something back there or how I can adjust to get it to sit even with the cowl....Thanks.