wallytoo

yeah, the goal is to have it officially on the road by the end of next week. just a few more wiring issues to clean up. i'm going to register it as an antique vehicle. fortunately, nh has very few restrictions with such a registration. it just has to pass a safety inspection, and it will. wally

smaller to the front. larger to the rear.

if you order from robert's, specify left or right. they do supply the correct wheel cylinders. actually, in my robert's catalog, it doesn't even list them as front or rear. it just gives the years. anyway, i had no problem getting the correct one. wally

fedex delivered the inner bearing seals today (timken - part # in previous post). repacked the bearings with grease, installed the hub/drum assembly, tightened the spindle nuts/lock rings, slid the axle shaft in and attached the nuts/washers. put the first wheel on, and attached the inner lug nuts. put the second wheel on, and attached the outer lug nuts. dropped it down, and started it up. first time it had been started in 3 weeks, and it started quickly (it was 17* here today). the new rear wheel cylinder works, and the brakes are almost up. just need to bleed them tomorrow. i used rtv-blue for the axle flange, since i tore the paper gasket on removal. seems to be keeping the oil in. so, what i thought was going to be an afternoon's work turned in to two weeks of work. but, it's done.

bio - 39 "real" - 26

there is no seal to keep the diff lube away from the wheel bearings. the only seal is a gasket on the axle flange (to keep the oil from leaking outside of the hub assembly). there is an inner seal outside of the inner wheel bearing. again, this is to retain whatever fluid/grease is in the hub, and to prevent outside dirt/contaminants from getting into the hub, not to prevent diff lube from reaching the bearings. there is no machined surface on the axle shaft (other than the flange - as noted), thus there isn't any interior seal. i've got the bearing numbers and the inner bearing seal number (timken 455249). wally

but nowhere near as rare as a blue moon in february.

thank you for the input. i will go about packing them. i appreciate the help. wally

i've got a full-floating rear axle (1.5 ton 2-speed). the manual states that the rear wheel bearings should be packed with wheel bearing grease. i'm curious if anybody has any input on that. i ask because as far as i can determine, there are no axle shaft seals - thus, the gear lube for the differential is not excluded from the hub/bearing units. in my past other vehicle experiences, if there isn't an inner shaft seal, then the bearings aren't packed with grease, instead, they rely on the gear lube from the diff. it seems that packing them with grease would ultimately lead to contamination of the differential. and i thought replacing the wheel cylinder was going to be a quick job. wally

could be, norm, could be. really, though, as long as they (robert's) continue to treat me right, they'll have a customer. religion? what's that? wally

i've never dealt with bernbaum's, so i have no opinion on him. however, i have had many transactions with robert's, and i've been happy. i've placed at least a half-dozen orders with them, dating back to the late 1980's. i don't want to jinx myself, but the order has always been correct, including the recent four or five orders over the last 5 months. plus, the shipping is lightning fast, by regular ups ground. it helps that i live in central nh, so usually if i call one day, the parts are in my driveway the next afternoon. no complaints.

nice find, merle. the bracket looks about the same size as the single horn bracket in my '48, in terms of width. hard to say without measuring, though. good luck, in any event. edit: i went and looked more closely at the bracket. that two-horn bracket is wider for sure. wally

out of curiosity, i checked out the key-switch on my dad's '52 b-3-c. same switch, with the acc position. i'm confused now, as the odds of both trucks having the same switch, especially aftermarket, seem low. dad purchased his truck circa 1985, and i purchased mine in 2007. also, as with merle's key, our ignition keys work in our passenger door lock cylinders.

merle, that looks like the switch in my truck. is it an aftermarket switch? thanks, wally

if the trucks don't have an "accessory" position, why does the key switch allow the key to be turned to the left? in my '48, when i turn my key to the left, it allows the "run" circuits to operate, but i can't start the truck in this key position. the starter will turn, but it won't fire. as far as i know, the key switch is the original to the truck.

on a similar note, i assume the small square (that looks like it could be punched out) centered on the vertical face of the seat stamping is for the transmission connector rod to pass through on a c-o-e truck. not being familiar with the c-o-e, perhaps the x/rounded square is the location of the transmission in those?

that's what i usually do with excess jeep parts from my cj (my other obsession/addiction), i sell them for low cost on the jeep-related forums i frequent. i have no problem doing that, knowing i'm helping a fellow enthusiast, vs just selling them on ebay. not that i don't buy stuff on ebay, i do.

yes.

yeah, i saw that, too. there were several specialty parts going for big dollars. btw, that head went for more than i paid for my '48 b-1-fa152.

larger than a 1-ton. should have actual fender flares, rather than a one-piece fender with a built-in flare. also, note the distance between the running board and the bottom of the door. on the order of 8 inches, rather than 2 or 3. at least 1.5 ton.

in the context in which you answered, you are correct. the fluid-drivetrain will not provide sufficient "hold" to park the truck on any incline without the aid of a parking brake/chocks. however, in the real sense, the vehicle does have some compression braking with the engine off. it is possible to roll-start a fluid drive equipped vehicle, and that can only happen if the motor is being turned over by the drivetrain. if the motor is turning over, there is some compression braking. perhaps it's a case of static vs. rolling braking? wally

according to the parts manual, if the trucks are both 1/2 tons, the springs should be the same. however, there were different springs for each year. half-tons show the same grouping for both years, with the same part nos. the 7 leaf fronts are 1194190, and the 8 leaf fronts are 1194198. the steering gear housing and shaft show different part nos. for the different years. i don't know if they'd interchange or not. same goes for the front axle. the parts manual shows different numbers for the two years. they may or may not interchange.

1-b? 1-c? 1-f? to 3-b? 3-c? 3-d?

good point, merle i was drawing from my experience with dad's truck, which had the 3 on the tree. wally

shift pattern should be up/up=R, up/down=1st, down/up=2nd, and down/down=3rd. the pattern is a sideways H on the column. i assume there is a flywheel, as that's generally the means for the starter to turn the motor over (by engaging the ring gear on the flywheel). i used to "start" in second with dad's b-3-c, used it more or less like an automatic.