40desoto

What I dont like about this setup is that you have to remove the oil filter assembly whenever you need to remove the starter?

Did you just call the Spitfire motor a slouch!! ?. It spits fire!! Im kidding Greg! Thanks for the information

Yes!!! It made my day. Thank you

I installed the starter, which required removal of the oil filter and when I was doing so something crossed my mind telling me “I bet ill have to redo this...” i just realized that according to the attached diagram the plug to connect the oil pressure line sits right behind the started. Can I use any other pluged oil gallery outlet for the oil pressure sensor ?

ThaNevermind my previous response. I just clicked on the link and that nickle/copper line looks great. Might go that route Thabk you Ken! I went your recommended route. As seen on a previous sample picture of the quad carb setup they soldered an adapter for all four lines to connect to a single brass adaptor. Im not quite clear how this can be done without fuel leaking where the four lines are soldered to the single brass fitting. Heres is the link to the article and a coupe of pictures to diagram what Im inquiring about. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.hotrod.com/articles/fuel-delivery-system-every-multi-carburetor-system-anyone-can-make/amp/

Nevermind my previous response. I just clicked on the link and that nickle/copper line looks great. Might go that route. Can you solder nickle/copper tubing? Thank you

Thank you. I understand but I was considering copper more the cool factor. We tend to do that a lot here in So. California. ? thank you for the info on the dimensions and recommendation Ken

I’d recommend you buy one that is complete and motor in it. if your spending that much on restoring an Airflow might as well get an engine rebuilt. Airflow parts are rare. https://www.ebay.com/i/143072891521?chn=ps&ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-117182-37290-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fi%252F143072891521%253Fchn%253Dps%26itemid%3D143072891521%26targetid%3D484268501929%26device%3Dm%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D9031119%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D1497794128%26adgroupid%3D56281259485%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-484268501929%26abcId%3D1139466%26merchantid%3D6296724%26gclid%3DEAIaIQobChMI087no9Kl4QIVGx-tBh3-mQODEAQYASABEgKnLfD_BwE%26ul_ref%3Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Frover.ebay.com%25252Frover%25252F0%25252F0%25252F99%25253Floc%25253Dhttps%2525253A%2525252F%2525252Frover.ebay.com%2525252Frover%2525252F1%2525252F711-117182-37290-0%2525252F2%2525253Fmpre%2525253Dhttps%252525253A%252525252F%252525252Fwww.ebay.com%252525252Fi%252525252F143072891521%252525253Fchn%252525253Dps%25252526itemid%2525253D143072891521%25252526targetid%2525253D484268501929%25252526device%2525253Dm%25252526adtype%2525253Dpla%25252526googleloc%2525253D9031119%25252526poi%2525253D%25252526campaignid%2525253D1497794128%25252526adgroupid%2525253D56281259485%25252526rlsatarget%2525253Dpla-484268501929%25252526abcId%2525253D1139466%25252526merchantid%2525253D6296724%25252526gclid%2525253DEAIaIQobChMI087no9Kl4QIVGx-tBh3-mQODEAQYASABEgKnLfD_BwE%252526rvr_id%25253D0%252526rvr_ts%25253Dc5eccf271690a9cb9a05ef03fffea25e%26srcrot%3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1914059705375%26rvr_ts%3Dc5eccfad1690a9ca12d11ab8ffff30f2

Im starting to work on my fuel plumbing on my triple Carter setup and was wondering what fuel line size would be best to use on this setup? im thinking of using copper simply for asthetic reasons and found a good article in a hot rod site on how bend and sweat your own. Looks simple, fun, and looks great. Debating between 1/2 or 3/8 size line. I also compared the car brass fiting between a carter single setup and the triple and noticed that the brass fitting on both are the same size but appears to be different inside where the flared tube will seal against. Is for for a 1/2 tube and the other for 3/8? any help/clarification ia greatly appreciated.

What about the Spitsfire head?

My apologies. I was being a bit sarcastic about the Spitfire version being the best. as far as I understand the spitfire raised lettering on the head is just for asthetics. i believe the 265 is the largest of the 25” flathead six motors that came in Desotos and Chryslers and other Canadian Dodge and Plymouth. im assuming the later model wngines are better due to the engineering enhancements. I have a running 251 25” motor laying around but not sure if it will fit the Airflow. Most likely if there is a didference it would be in the bellhousing transmission differences. What do you have in it now? Send us an engine stamped number

The Spitfire version of the 265 is the best.

Ironically I just posted a similar question. This might help http://p15-d24.com/topic/49721-12v-starter-from1954-windsor/

Thank you. I will try again using 4 gauge battery cables. To be on the save side I might just take it to get rebuilt by an electrical shop. Especially since I'll have to revome the full flow oil filter if I ever need to remove the starter in the future.

Thank you T120. Ive grouded it via one of the small bolts that holds the solenoid to the starter. would this be good enough ground?

Thanks Adams. It didnt have a green tag but did have an engraved 12v stamp on the body. The PO mentioned that he got it converted to 12v. thanks for the info, Im going to run the correct guage wire and try it again. Its been a while but i believe when I purchased it I ran the correct wire size and it still smoked. I plan on starting the motor on a stand so the engine will not be grounded to the car. what would be the correct wire size for the positive and negative cables?

Hello, Im sure this is a no brainer question but wanted to get some expert advice. I purchased a 1954 265 motor with a starter that had been converted to 12volt. When I tested the starter I noticed that the wires became very hot and the starter solenoid would smoke a bit when spinning a couple of times for about 1 second each spin. In my experience starter cables would only get that hot and starters smoke when attempting many, many times. Here is my questions - Is this smoking normal and if not what can cause it. Also, I disconnected the starter and has been put away for some time and I didnt keep track of where the wires go to since all other starters that Ive dealt with have markings on them to determine where the positive,negative , ignition switch wires go to. Not this starter. Does anyone have a diagram?

Just wanted to share my update and maybe it will be a reference to someone in the future. I came to the conclusion with what parts i had remaining that this is the proper assembly of the clutch fork return spring and bracket. kinda neat that the spring bracket also holds the speedometer cable in places

Thank You DJ. I will definitely consider your recommended route. the car is not driveable yet and have been inquiring so I can be ready when the car is ready to drive. keep in mind the car is already registered under my name but I’d rather have the VIN number on the car in the case that I even need to sell it.

Beautiful! your setup moves your shifter one inch forward compared to the rest that used the adapter.... and saved you about $400. I'll save my T5 questions for another forum topic. By the way, everytime I google to do research that damn baby blue motor keeps coming up... ?

Thanks Don. I think mine is different because my bellhousing has a bottom cover that bolts where the bracket on your picture is located. Im guessing that the large bracket in the picture I posted mounts on that same hole but under the bellhousing cover. Thanks for sharing your pictures over time. Ive used them for my project, especially my T5 conversion.

Im assuming that I have all the parts when I removed them all years ago and I never noticed a clutch spring return bracket. I did have this large bracket that appears to mount around the area of the spring return bracket. If I recall correctly, this bracket also help the transmission OD cable as it ran from the dash to the transmission. does anyone have a similar bracket that can assist me in confirming the mounting location?

Im in California, my VIN on the title was the engine number.i successfully transfered the title over to me and registered the car with the engine number. I have since swapped the engine and no other numbers on the car match. I looked at the frame and a completely different number is stamped. what should I do? Should I just restamp the frame to match the VIN number on the title? Or should I throw the old block in the trunk and drive over to the DMV to request a new VIN number?

So my spring plate is not rectangular like the ones on all the diagrams I reviewed. I was lucky to see markings and slight paint lines to detemine where they have been mounted before. It also has a spacer plate that was on between the spring plate and the recessed area of the bell housing. Looks like the spacer was not factory and was used as a shim to allign?

I had the same question on a later post and luckily I found this older post. Does the rectangular (spring) plate mount on top of this Cluthc Linkage mounting plate?