MarcDeSoto

I just want to thank all of you who posted here giving your very sage advice! That includes those who encouraged me as well as those who cautioned me. Both types of comments are appreciated. Also thanks for the guys who posted pics too. They are great! Thanks, Marc.

It just seems so much easier to work on the chassis with the body off. No, I want a driver, but I want to replace the fuel and brake lines. I don't see how taking the body off of the frame would increase costs that much. I thought about buying a car lift, but they are too expensive to use just for a one time use. Also are there not some body to frame rubber parts that need to be replaced. That's a good point that Niel mentioned about the steering column. I don't think the two brothers mentioned that. Does everyone agree that the steering column needs to be disconnected to get the body off?

If you like old movies, watch this car in "The Desperate Hours" 1955, starring Humphrey Bogart and Frederick March. March drives a 49 or 50 Plymouth business coupe.

I am in the middle of my restoration of a 1948 DeSoto business coupe. I am considering taking the body off of the frame so working on the chassis will be easier. At my age, I don't want to be rolling around on my back trying to install new gas and brake lines. I saw the video from the Collector Car Restoration series, Vol. I Getting Started/Back on Track, done by two brothers about 20 years ago. They show how easy it is to take the body off of a 1952 Dodge sedan. After removing the body bolts and making all of the necessary disconnections, they just jack the body up about 6" off the frame and put an 8' 4x4 above the front and rear axles supported by 4 concrete blocks well to sides of the wheels. Then they just roll the chassis out from under the body. Then they lower the body onto a body cart that they made out of plywood and casters to roll where ever they want. Has anyone ever done this, and what are the complications, if any? Thanks, Marc.

Hi! I'm an American picker they call the "bundler." I'm a can guy, but I don't pay retail prices because I've got to have some meat left on the bone. I'd like to bundle both cans together and I'm at about $10 on it. How about it?

I am getting ready to start my 48 DeSoto bus. coupe engine. I need a 6 volt battery and was wondering what is a good vendor for these. I was thinking of trying to get an original size and type of battery. Any ideas? Thanks.

Sounds like you already know a lot! I know what you mean about cruising on the freeway. I had a 50 Plymouth that always felt like I needed a 4th gear when I hit 55 mph. The fact that your car leans to one side when you apply the brakes doesn't mean that is the way they worked when new. It just means you need a brake job. The old way to improve the cruising problem was to put in an overdrive. There are a lot of good reference sources for your car online. Chrysler made lots of educational filmstrips for your car. Check out the link below. Good luck with your Plymouth!

Does everyone know that the Master Tech, or MTSC filmstrips that Chrysler started in 1947 and going into the 1970's are now available on Youtube. This is a boon to owners of Mopars to see how the dealer mechanics of that time were taught how to fix our cars. Here is a link to one the filmstrips:

Only two replies, but what replies. They were great! Robert, love the job you did on your Hadees heater! Where do they sell Hammermill paint. I think I'll get some for my Comfort Master model 53. Marc.

I just removed the Comfort Master heater model 53 from the under the passenger side of the dashboard from my 48 DeSoto. Has anyone ever restored one before. I don't think the core leaks, but it looks very dirty. I guess I can connect a six bolt battery to it to check the motor. Can the core be removed? I want to send the core to a radiator shop to boil out and maybe rod out, if that can be done. Does anyone know the right type and color paint for the Comfort Master? I appears to be a golden beige color. I also have the All Weather Control System in a NOS box that I'm planning to install.

I have a 48 DeSoto 3w coupe with a rebuilt engine. Trouble is it was rebuilt in the 80s but never started. It still turns over when I put a 1 13/16" socket on the crankshaft bolt. I've been told to go ahead and start it up, but a friend of mine said that it is essential that the camshaft bearings are greased before you start it. They were greased with lithium lube, but that was 30 years ago! Should I disassemble the engine to re-lube this area, or is there a way to deliver oil to these areas by turning the oil pump with a drill to produce oil pressure before first start up? Thanks, Marc.

That's a terrific Youtube of this place! Looks like a restorer's dream store. Does he do all his business in the store or does he have a catalog and ship? Looks like you just call and ask for parts and he checks his inventory.

I saw on the Car Collector tape that the rubber cushions that the body mounts to are of different thicknesses and you have to keep track of where each cushion goes. Is that the way they are sold Marc

Is this the Wayfarer with a 3 speed manual with fluid drive, or the semi-auto Gyromatic?

Thanks mrwrstory! You have been a great help. I really liked your pics! I just have been squirting liquid wrench on all the body bolts I can find. Are you able to wrench on the top while holding a wrench on the bottom nut at the same time???? I guess I might need another pair of hands for that. I've already loosened the cowl bolts with a 9/16 socket. Maybe all the bolts are 9/16's? I have a three car garage so that helps on the space question. Maybe I'll shoot a video or take some pics and post them showing how I did it. Marc.

Thanks for all the great advice, but could someone tell me how many bolts need to be removed and what technique I should use? Do I really need to remove the doors and trunk lid? I guess most people jack up the body and then move the chassis elsewhere because that's easier. Does anyone have a plan for a frame to hold the body? I guess it's good to remove the body if only to replace the body mount rubber? Is that rubber available from the rubber suppliers? Do I need special jacks or an engine hoist to lift the body? Marc.

Hey that looks like modern art! You could make millions for that offbeat idea! Hey and what a great way to surprise the wife!

This is like my 1948. In three years of production only 1,950 business coupe DeSotos were made! Odd that it has a Custom type steering wheel, but maybe that is because it is a early 46 model. Marc.

I have returned to finishing the restoration of my 48 DeSoto bus. coupe and realize that there is so much work to do on the chassis, such as putting in new brake lines, gas lines, etc. that it might be easier to work on it with the body removed. I always thought removing the body was further than I ever wanted to go, but after seeing a video by the two brothers, The Collector Car Restoration series, tape 1, "Getting back on track", they show how to remove the body from a '52 Dodge. It looked easier than I thought. They just removed about 10 bolts holding the body to the frame, and then jacked the body up with a couple of jacks. Then they rolled the chassis out from under the body and rested the body on jack stands or milk crates. I don't think the engine was on their chassis when they rolled it, but I could always roll my chassis out sideways with the tires on those rolling wheel dollies. So my question is to those of you who have gone all the way and removed the body. What are the pitfalls and is it harder than it looks? Thanks, Marc.

The guy with the Wayfarer roadsters. You have great taste! I've wanted one for years. There was a '50 for sale in Hemet last week, but it sold the same day I was going to look at it. Proves when you find a convertible, you have to jump for it. I have also wanted a 50 to 51 DeSoto just to have that great bust of Hernando as the hood mascot, especially the one with the plastic head that lights up!

Randy, I like your answer. I really want to get this thing started and I will definitely make a video and post it here and on Youtube. Another thing that worries me is the flywheel ring gear. In the shop manual, they show a special tool to align the new ring gear, but I just had my school's metal shop teacher put it on by lining it up by eye and arc welding it on. I guess I'll just have to start it and see if there's a vibration there.

I have a 1948 DeSoto business coupe that has been sitting in a garage for the last 30 years. It has a rebuilt engine that has never started and a new clutch. Now I am finally in a position where I can work on it again. Since the pedals are out of the car, I guess that means the clutch is engaged. Will there be a problem breaking it free from the flywheel and will there be a problem starting an engine that has never run. I still turns over when use a wrench to turn the crank. Thanks, Marc.

The year was 1965. I was just 15 and my dad who had just left us a year ago was visiting. He was driving his 64 Mustang. We lived on top of a hill in San Diego so there was very little traffic. He taught me how to work the stick shift, but I never got to drive his Mustang solo. I really learned how to drive with my mom's 65 Chevrolet wagon which had an automatic. So why do I have a nostalgia for Mopars? My grandfather died in 1953 so my dad inherited his 52 Dodge club coupe. I remember riding in the back on Saturdays when our dad drove us to his work. My mom drove a 53 Mercury wagon and since my parents were not Mopar buffs, my dad sold the Dodge in 1957 and replaced it with a Ford Fairlane convertible.

That's a great pic of a 3-window coupe. I love these cars so much that I put an ad in for one in the late 70's in the WPC bulletin and got a 48 DeSoto 3-window coupe from a guy in Idyllwild, CA. It is now undergoing a restoration. Hope to get it running this summer.

I have a 1948 DeSoto business coupe which has been sitting in my garage since the 1980s! The engine was rebuilt in 1982 and I assembled it with white grease. But it has never been started! Yes, it turns over and I have periodically put oil down the spark plug holes. It also has a new clutch, brakes, radiator, starter, generator, wiring harness, etc. I plan to get it started this summer, but I have received conflicting advice all the way from "just make sure it has oil pressure and start it up" to "you should take the engine apart, check for corrosion and reassemble". What do you guys think? Thanks, Marc.