texas275

The key is the least of your worries. Just getting the drum off is the hard part. Not a big deal if you have the proper puller, but if you dont have the proper puller, get one.

When I pulled all of my glass out the windshield center divider fell apart. When you order the windshield rubber does it come with the center divider, or is that something else I have to order? Cab is at the paint shop being painted now. Glass will be the next thing to go in when it gets back.

Mine was there, but broken and all of the pins broke when I tried to take it off. I was super bummed. I'll see if I can fix it before I buy another one.

Just for future reference, Rockauto has alot of parts for our trucks and they are considerably cheaper than my local parts stores. I just priced shocks and they will save me about 40.00 over my local stores even with the shipping. Just my .02. Tom

I wish I could take it off your hands. I just dont see how I can get it home at a reasonable price. Pluss my wife would kill me. She said my back yard looks like "Sanford and Son".

Can anyone tell me what the tags on the rearend mean? I am guessing the 336 is the ratio?

The lead threw me off. In Texas they are usually brass..

While celebrating National Work On You Classic Truck Day, I pulled the gas tank out and there was something ratteling in it. Poured out what was left of the 30 year old gas, water, and whatever else was in there and out came these 4 lead balls. I have no idea what they are and why they would be in there. Any Ideas?

I did my part. I got the bed taken off, The cab gutted and, the front end put back together. I love this holiday!!!!!

Nope, for a 1/2 ton. Luckily pflaming has got one and is going to hook me up.

Does anyone have an extra brake shoe anchor pin/bolt and castle nut for a 53 B4B. It's one of the long ones that goes on the front. I tore one up while taking the front end apart. I'll be glad to pay for one. Thanks in advance, Tom

Is the radiator available? If so how much?

Is there any way to test a starter and the generator on my non running 53 B4B? I dont expect either to work due to not running for 30 years, but is there a way to test them? Also need a rebuiler for both. Perfer the Dallas area if possible, but I'm pretty much open to anywhere. Thanks in advance, Tom

Yes sir I did.

So I'm not going to try and pull the head off anymore. I picked up another engine tonight. 51 Plymouth, that came out of a businuss coupe. It was running when it was pulled and has been sitting in a garage for a few months. The only thing that is missing is the distributer and generator. I was super happy. He also gave me the three speed tranny, fly wheel, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and drive shaft. I also got the seat, and steering coloum/wheel. Did I say I was super happy? He said he may still have the radiator and master cylinder. He's gonna let me know. I got it all for a under 150.00. I know I wont use it all but I got it if I need it..

Ok, new wheel cylinders. What about the master cylinder? Are they salvagable?

53 B4B left in the paster for probably 30 years, so everything is rusted. I'm just going to say Hub Pullers are one of the best tools ever made. Anyway, all of the wheel cylinders are frozen, so my question is, should I attempt rebuilding or just buy new? I've rebuilt them before but they were in much newer, and never locked up. Same question for the master cylinder. I already plan on replacing all of the break lines. Thanks, Tom

Thats what I'm gonna do. It,s gott a come out anyway, so I will probaby pull it this weekend.

This is my first flathead tear down/rebuild. It is in a 53 Dodge B4B. It is a 218 and it is locked up tighter than Ebenezer Scrooge's coin purse. I pulled the plugs and filled the holes with diesel. I have started pulling the head off and have the bolts out, (5 of them broke off, but I'll work on that later), but it is still firmly attached to the block. Everything is rusted together beause it was sitting in a pasture for about 30 years. Before I start swinging a big hammer, I wanted to know if I was I missing something else that needs to come off, removed, or loosened to get the head off? I have looked around but I havent found anything that goes step by step as to the removal of the head. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Tom

Thats what I was thinking. With the motor locked up, I was contemplating my options. I could either go with a more modern motor/trans/rear or try and salvage this one. If I'm going to have to drop a ton on money into the drive train, I think I would like to get me some more horses under the hood. I'm just going to have to do some shopping arond and see whats out there. Any one know how big of a job it would be to swap drive trains with say a 318ish set up?

Well the oven cleaner did the trick. Most of the gunk is off of the transmission. The trans moves freely in neutral, and I got it to shift into all of the gears. The rear end moves but I still have one rear wheel that is locked up. I'm hoping it is just the brake locked up on it. The bad news is the motor is locked up. I pulled the spark plugs and some of the holes in the head dont have threads anymore, and some of the plugs were missing their threads as well. I put some penetrating oil in the cylinders and am going to let that sit, and we'll see what happens. Can the plug holes be re-tapped? I dont know if yall remember but the grill on this old girl is off of what looks like a 50 model. I did some more poking arond and the paint (under the rust) on the front fenders did not match the cab. Also found some accident damage to the cab on the passenger side just behind the fender. It looks like both fenders and grill were replaced. I know the grill is not from a 53, how can I tell if the fenders are? Thanks in advance, Tom

It dont run. I'm afraid I'm a long way from that point. Through the foot panel I found a metal plug at 12:00. I popes out and it looked like I was looking at the back of the pressure plate. I can't get to move into 3rd or 4th gear. 1st and rev seem fine. But it doesn't look like the clutch is working. I'll keep digging and see what I come up with.

By the way what is a "rebuilders tag"?

I just checked the number on the engine and it's a 218 that does belong in a 53 B-4-B. I guess I'll never know if it is the original or not. The VIN/Serial # also shows it to be a 53 built in Detroit. Thanks for the links. As far as the transmission goes, can anyone tell if its a fluid drive or not. I have never seen one so I dont know what to look for. I'm on my way out there armed with a can of oven cleaner to attack the caked on oil, grease, dirt and whetever else is on there.

Now that I have it home and have had a chance to clean it up some, I need some help figuring out exactly what I have. I am waiting on my book to get here, so any help would be greatly appreciated. I have attached some pics of the engine tag, trans, and rear end. I'm still in the process of blasting the years of oil and dirt off of it but I figured some of you pros could tell what I have by looking. Thanks, Tom