jeff0547

Great job, as usual. I've been following you since you put a 5-window GMC pickup cab on a 40s Dodge frame. And I should mention that mail truck ( FJ-8 Fleetvan ) you tried to put a 455 Olds engine in. You continue to amaze me. Keep it up. Also, do you have a link for that $65 Carb?

Also try Fredricksburg Auto Salvage. About 1/2 hour south. Look 'um up and call first, they're a little tricky to find. I used to deal with "Marshall". Probably been 20 years since I was there.

I copied the URLs from my address bar. Here are two: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&f=2&page=1&pp=50&sort=lastpost&order=desc&daysprune=-1 http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=25364&highlight=fire I hope you can help. Thanks for trying.

Thanks Harold, I think I have it wired right.

Well, I have replaced all of the "suspect" wire for the engine harness all the way back to the ignition switch including heavier battery cables. Sadly, my camera took a dump and I don't have pics. (Camera is under warranty and will be back in about a week.) I just have one question, What is the middle lug on the solenoid for? Mine had a wire on it but the wire broke away fron the fitting, so i have no idea where to hook it up. Just a note, the nuts on my solenoid were three different sizes. the small one was, well, small. The bigger ones were the same size thread, but the nuts were different sizes. One was 5/8" and the other was 19/32". I found 2 in my spare hardware box that were 9/16", so i changed 'em. (Surprisingly, I have a 19/32" wrench.)

I have dozens of threads saved with a "short-cut" to a file on my desktop. (I think that the computer saves the URL where you are at that moment) Now, when I click on one it just says that you have moved and gives me the new address, but no way to find the thread. Every time Don or Tim answered a question by suggesting that we use the "search" feature first, I did and I saved them. Will these "Short cuts" ever work again? Not sure why you changed everything, but I hope it gets better.

All wire being used is multi stranded and although unconventional will work just fine for my purposes. OK, I promised pics so here are some. The first 3 are of my supplies, and the last 3 are of the alleged wiring.

Same one, Bob. His name is Gilbert and he has moved to New Mexico. That car came out of Kansas. The floor has a sheet of galvanized metal welded over the rusty original floor. My next big job. The guy who transported it said that until the late 60's, they didn't salt the roads in Kansas, otherwise it would have been rustier.

Thanks guys for all the responses. Here's what I'm going to do. I'm going to leave the spark plug wires as is in the wire holder thingy, for the time being. I'm going to rewire the car, starting with the engine circuit. Today I went to my local Home Depot and bought enough wire to re-wire the engine circuit in my 52 Suburban. A friend (electrician) gave me some # 10 wire that was designed for use in kitchen appliances. It is gasoline, oil and heat resistant. He gave me Black and Red. (Didn't need much.) It is a little more stiff than automotive wire, but I think it will still work. I have printed several copies of wiring diagrams and feel ready. I have a vast assortment of connectors and an abundance of solder. I'll take some pics to share as I progress. I have started several engines sitting on cinder blocks and out of the car, with just basic wiring. This can't be too much different. @ Dan, thanks for the offer of another style of "Spark Plug Wire Thingy", but I think I'll pass. @ Bob, My "Spark Plug Wire Thingy" looks just like yours except mine isn't covered with chrome tape (although, I do have some and maybe some day...) And thanks to Don for explaining that, "The spark plug wire thingy is called a LOOM..." Here's a pic of the car I'm working on:

Hmmmmm, gloss black, chrome plated..... I like the look of Andy's pic. I can find wire separators at the junk yard or make my own with zip ties. I also like the coil mounted on the firewall. Still unsure. Randy: I am one of the "Old Farts" and I know of the dangers of naked wires. I am going to replace enough of them to isolate the danger of fire and allow the car to start. Many of the connections are corroded and I have cleaned some with a small wire brush. Also, I am going to make my own harness. Sadly today it is raining and cool and the car is parked in the driveway, so probably nothing will get done right away. Florida is the "Sunshine" state so I guess this is "liquid sunshine". First thing, tomorrow, check the points to make sure that they aren't stuck closed. Second thing, re-wire engine circuit.

Thanks to you both. Harold, you're right about it keeping them neat, but it seems like a real POA. I'm going to think about it for a couple days. Paul, mine is the one that looks like a fan tail. I'm just not sure. BTW, I've been reading your thread about your convertible. Your last post talks about wiring. I'm at the point that I have to, at least, replace SOME of mine. Almost none of it has any insulation on any wire under the hood. It's funny to see all the wire in bare naked copper. I'm afraid that I got in way over my head. A 52 Suburban has never been my favorite car and I think that I'm going to have to do way too much to it to make it roadworthy. Up until a month ago it would start. Now it has no spark. I bought a new coil, today and hope that helps. I am also going to replace the plug wires and a couple more just to see if I can get it started. If not, it will hit the "Block". I'm waiting for more posts on your latest one. Good luck and good job.

I've searched everywhere I could think of but "Spark Plug Wire Thingy" just isn't in there. I'm refering to the metal piece that all 6 spark plug wires go into on their way from the distributor to the plugs. Also: How do you get the wires out of it (trying to replace 'um) and how do you get the new wires into it. Is it necessary?

Don't know what part of Florida you're headed to, but I'm an hour south of Tampa on the west coast and it was 85* at my house, today. :D:D You're makin' a wise choice. Good luck.

For about 9 months, I have been starting my 52 Suburban about once per week. I run an electric fuel pump from a gas can in front of the radiator. I usually let the fuel pump run for about 10 seconds (to fill the bowl) and then I crank it over. Well, I went out of town for a week, came back and got sick for about 3 weeks (Pneumonia). After I recovered, I went out to start it. Guess what. It won't start. Its getting fuel and air but seems to get no fire. I haven't checked, yet to see if it really isn't getting fire, so I'll do that first. I have a #00 ground cable and a strong battery, so I suspect it's the coil. Is there a way to check the coil at home or should I take it to Auto Zone and let them check it? BTW: my hot lead from the fuel pump is connected to the positive (+) side of the coil and had been working fine. I'm kinda stumped...

Somewhere I read that you put a 66 Mustang tank in your Suburban. Do you have any pics or a tech article. Anything sure would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff

Did I miss something? What did you do about the front caliper brackets? Maybe I'm gettin' ahead of ya.

Don, what did the T-5 come out of and what kind of adapter did you use?

I ran this request in "Parts Wanted", but I suspect that nobody saw it, so I'm mentioning it here, too. Can anybody help? "I'm working on a 1952 Plymouth Suburban and am in need of the following items: Driver's side hood hinge spring Bottom part of the rear seat + hinges Spare tire cover Thanks in advance for any help you can give. Send me a PM w/a phone number. Jeff "

Merci beaucoup.

I'm still working on my 52 Suburban, and I need some help/advice. 1) Could someone tell me how to R&R the drivers' side outside door handle and latch. I got one off in the junkyard, but I'm sure I bent some important peices. Do you have to remove the inside door handle, first/also? 2) Could someone send me a pic of how you mounted your alternator on the Flathead 6 engine. 3) Does anyone have a source for the rubber seals for my quarter windows? Or a viable alternative? (I have not removed the windows, yet, so I dont know what the rubber looks like. Thanks guys.

I've had three, all wagons. The only "NEW" car I ever bought was a '76 Volare wagon. It had a 318, 3speed/Overdrive on the floor, PS, PB and AC, no radio, no luggage rack, no chrome. It came with body-colored wheels and bottle caps. $5000 out the door. I lost it a divorce and re-bought it several years later from a friend who bought it from my Ex. The second time I owned it, I worked at a junkyard and got a set of "Premire" seats (60/40 better upholstery). I loved that car and I miss the floor shift. Maybe I could find a similar drive-train and put it in my 52 Suburban.

I had to re- start my Pay Pal account, but the one way gas/diesel valve from autospares has been ordered and on its way. My wife & I have 5 empty, unpainted, dirty rentals, so she said,"EVERY day is a work day until we get 'em all rented!" So, wish me luck.

Thanks Larry. I found one from Autospares on e-Bay (not an auction.). It runs $9 including shipping. I'll try to order it tomorrow.

Thanks Ed, but alas, no radio. I do, however, have some old radio knobs that may work. I'll let you know...

Thanks Larry. Where did you buy that one-way valve. Do you have an address or phone number, for them?