rockerbillykat

Melbourne,Victoria,Australia

Merry Christmas to everyone on the forum. I hav'nt been on here for a while as i am travelling with my missus on a two year trip around OZ. We packed up and left Melbourne in April and are at presently in a town called Albany on the South West coast of Western Australia. Its an old town steeped in whaling history and was the gathering and deployment place of the first ANZACS and of the first ANZAC Service after the first world war. Strange as it may seem there is a body of water here,between the main land and an island about 5 to 600 metres wide called Ataturk Straight. Named after the enemy (Turks) the Australians fought against. We have seen so much since leaving and have so far travelled 12972 kms so far and are still at the bottom of OZ. Will be here for Christmas and New Year and then head off North in January towards Darwin. I hope the temps are a little lower by the time we get there,at present in the top end, temps are as high as 48c and very humid. Any how i hope everybody here, your family and friends have a safe and wonderful CHRISTMAS!!!! LIFE IS GOOD!

Hey there Roger! Glad to see pics up early of the show. I have been too the last 4 shows but this year couldnt make it due to having all my fangs removed on thursday. Still learnin how to operate these new choppers.HA HA. Anyway its a great day with alot to see and getting bigger each year. Dissapointed i missed this one ,but theres next year and i will be just that much closer to putting my old girl in and showing her off. Cheers Mate.

Boxer inv, try Automotive Surplus, they are down here in Melbourne. I purchased a full kit less head gasket for under $100. Some of their stuff is pricey,but they should be able to help! Their Phone No :03 98733566 Fax: 0398741485 www.autosurplus.com.au

Hey thanks,Shel_bizzy_48. I have already checked out those pics while searching the forum for answers. Maybe some of our Aussie forum members may be able to chime in here. If i run the cable down and under and across to the left side,i end up with the cable fouling on the clutch assembly as the e- brake cable comes out directly above the clutch. Run up and across the firewall and down,to many bends so the cable doesnt operate smoothly! I havnt found any info relating to this in the manual,just adjustmants etc! When i purchased the car the cable was running across the firewall,so i assumed that was correct but as i have found out with many of the repairs(previous owner not me) and problems i have come up against..... i think there was a lot of bush mechanic work carried out over the years to keep this old girl running! Rockerbillykat.

Well ive managed to reinstall the engine and gearbox after replacing the clutch, machining the fly wheel ,replacing the engine gaskits and seals etc! I have connected all the linkages and cable for the gear selectors. Now tobe fair and not to confuse the issue,we are talking about a Right Hand Drive D25. Now my problem is with the E Brake cables position. I have reinstalled it as i removed it,across the fire wall and down between the gearbox mount and cross member. I am starting to wonder if this should be routed under the engine as there seems to be too many tight bends for the cable to operate without jambing. So if anyone has pictures that show where the cable runs,this would help me a lot. I have tried using the search function but there is nothing that shows the cable coming out of the firewall and where it goes! Thanks,Rockerbillykat.

Those grills also have the radiator fitted to them as well,no wonder the poor guys knees are bent! Now let me see thats 86, or was it 85.....how long until lunch?

Thanks Dodgeb4ya, that really helps,i had tried the search reference but couldnt find any mention of actual sizes. If i had checked the plug sizes before i bolted the motor up to the stand i would have known,but you learn as you go i spose! Thanks again for your help. Rockerbillykat.

Gidday Andy, ive got the 25" block,228 i think! I have got the same problem at the moment. My engine is on a stand and i cant access behind with out spending an hour setting up the lifter,unbolting,then rebolting to the stand. When i removed the gearbox i just happend to see these plugs when i removed the fly wheel and noticed they were cup shaped and wondered if they were correct. I want to change them as a matter of course as im replacing the plugs on the side of the block! I had planned to pick up the plugs tommorow,so i can put every thing back together over the weekend,paint the engine and get it back in the car.

Gidday all. I am in the process of re-assembling the flatty. New gaskets and seals are done. Ive had the flywheel machined,the clutch plate and throw out bearing checked. Now the problem i have is,there are two welsh plugs at the rear of the block, one is for the cooling and one for the oil. I would like to change these two,while the fly wheel is off as i believe they could be the wrong type of plug,they are both cup type. I know that the 5 in the side of the block are 1 5/8 inch, so what size are thr 2 in the rear as they look alot smaller? Thanks, Rockerbillykat.

Thanks for the reply Moose,that helps me alot,i can get the right size tap and bolts now. Thanks again.

That was a very interesting and i suppose "important" question. I would not have given any thought to having friction tape between the fenders as when i removed mine there was nothing at all there. So i would have more than likely not have used anything between these surfaces! Now i have learnt something new today and will add it to my list on the whiteboard. Its a looooong list!

Hi all,at the moment i am in the process of stripping down my motor to fit all new gaskits and seals. The problem i have come up against is, when removing the manifolds i managed to break off one of the long bolts that fit in the exhaust manifold, under the intake manifold.These two bolts fit either side of the "hot box"where both manifolds bolt together. What i need help with is,what size thread are these bolts. I have managed to drill out what was left of the old bolt with out doing any damage. As soon as i can find out the bolt size i can re tap the thread and buy some new bolts so it all snugs up nice again! Thanks,Rockerbillykat.

hey,theres no "P" for park on the column. Did the early autos not have park lock up?

To everyone on the forum,Happy New Year and may you all have a healthy and prosperous 2011. Down Under,Melbourne,Australia. Good Luck and Best Wishes, Rockerbillykat.

Wow! Christmas 1962. I was 8 months old by then, April 26 1962! That was really cool to watch Don.

Did you remove the backing plates when you pulled apart the brakes? Is it possible that the axle shaft oil seal may not be seated properly,causing the backing plates to not sit flush with the diff housing! just a thought!

Well guys and girls, Chryslers at the Caribbean, the big event for all us mopar nuts here in Melbourne Australia has been and gone again for this year,17 oct 2010. Though the weather was a bit on the chilly side,it was a great turnout and some great cars turned up for this yearly event! Each year i have gone it just gets bigger! Its quite surprising how many of these cars are hidden away and turn up here. There is a good amount of pics on the web site and well worth a look at how we love our Mopars here in OZ! So go to www.chryslerclubvic.org.au Enjoy!

Hey Guys,i've just relised that i have a set of these trims myself! The ones i have are nice and shiney,i thought they were just a wheel cover, they are held in place by the hub cap,so i know they wont come off at least! So now i have something else to paint,but they will look pretty cool when painted a nice bright white. Another small win for me!

Yeah u r right Andy,i shoulda said fender!LOL The car in question is my 48 D-25 Sedan! I just need to know the size so when i make them they will give me the correct curve around the "FENDER" Pickle me Gran Mother!

Ok i will try again,my explaination was a bit off track! Instead of Guard i will call it the" Mud Guard". Or more specifically the left and right rear Mud Guards. If you look in through the rear wheel arch towards the rear of the Mud Guard,there should be a "Brace" or lets say a "rod" that is attatched to the inner lip of the Mud Guard with a nut and bolt. This rod runs across to the chassis rail and is attached with either a nut and bolt or rivet and keeps the Mud Guard from flexing or vibrating. So what i need to know, is the rod straight,does it have flat ends where the bolts go through and how long is it from point to point! I hope this is a better expaination. RBK

Can any one tell me how long the brace for the rear guard is? By that i mean the steel rod that run across from the rear of the guard too the chassis rail and stops the rear of the guard from flapping or vibrating! I dont have these braces and would only be guessing the lenght and would like to get the right curve on the rear! thanks,Rockerbillykat!

That panel fits infront and below your radiator, your lucky you have two!

Gidday Roger! Sounds like you had a great day,i spent mine welding and grinding. Just finishing putting in new sill panels. What a nightmare! LOL! I'll get to one of those runs one day! Are you a member of the Crysler Restorers Club? I noticed the run listed in the latest CRYCO news letter! Been a member for about 12 months now. I sent you a welcome in your first post,there was lots of intrest in your rides. That Dodge is a great lookin car,pearl wheel an all! Im in Narre Warren,not far from Cranbourne,where are you?

Hi there Roger, was that the run to Blackwood?