linus6948

Some rebuild parts are available off ebay.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1938-39-40-41-1946-47-48-MOPAR-PLYMOUTH-DODGE-STARTER-BRUSHES-AUTOLITE-MZ-2012AS-/281253868122?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417c09725a&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Motor-Products-Starter-Brush-Set-EX-16B-M18-/251266204224?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1948|Make%3APlymouth&hash=item3a80a20240&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/starter-bushing-plymouth-dodge-46-47-48-49-50-51-52-53-54-/370568691306?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56479d7e6a&vxp=mtr

Now that I have my interior fairly cleaned for the most part, I have noticed some spots where the Moth larvae have worked their magic in the years gone by. I`ve also noticed present day that Moths find this interior irresistible as I`ve shooed more than one away from the inside of the car when the windows are open. So as I really don`t care for the "Grandma`s-Attic" smell of Moth Balls I`m going to try Red Cedar and or Lavender essential oil instead. These emit odors that the Moths apparently don`t like, so I`m giving it a shot, I can live with the smell of a cedar chest and I`ve always liked the fragrance of lavender. So I used some old take-out containers with the lids full of holes to give the cedar a try, the lavender oil is being shipped to me, I put these containers under the front seat and will change the chips periodically as they lose their smell. Paul

Perfectly reasonable request Rich to ask for a security deposit for loaned tools, as a favorite saying of mine goes "Too Bad Ignorance Isn`t Painful" Paul

I started my redone fuel system with non ethanol 93octane gas and I`m swearing to myself I will continue to use only that. I travel 36miles one way to get it but I bring a lot of 5gal cans. http://pure-gas.org/?stateprov=PA

I tried another experiment with the Tuff Stuff, my white walls had gotten pretty dingy and yellow with age, I had scrubbed them repeatedly with Mr Clean Magic Eraser pads and it really got the dirt off but did little to the yellowing. I tried the tuff stuff on a section and there was a marked improvement within seconds. I tried to capture the difference in a picture, about 90% of the yellow dinge is gone now. Paul

When I was fruitlessly trying to save me rusty varnish filled tank and non functioning sender the corks were like yours, I thought about drilling thru some new wine corks and shellacking them, but my tank was a hopeless 'terminal case" so I never tried it out, the brass float sounds like a much better solution to the problem.

I finally got around to changing out the 90weight in the rear end and the gear box, it was from the look and smell of it not a minute too soon and my well used original dealer service/shop manual came in today`s mail. I found it on Ebay from a comic book store in Minnesota for $30, what a great asset it is to me to finally have one of these in my hands. I`d been making due with some early 50`s Motors manuals. Paul

Took her out for an airing, in case anyone was wondering this car will run with the carburetor dashpot removed, positively. I took a few pictures of how she is starting to clean up, I also found a brand new unopened box of chrome door edge protector from the 70`s among my accumulated junk and added it to the D24`s doors and hood, probably gonna loose a few more points but I like chrome. Paul

Well I finished the headliner today, great arm exercise, used about 6 cans of Tuff Stuff, did no damage to the fabric whatsoever, no stretching and no shrinking. No exaggeration the results were remarkable the headliner really looks great compared to the filthy nicotine stained mess that I started with. Paul

Mike from Mike`s Carburetors in Washington state made the arrangements for me, apparently when he has a "problem-child" like my dashpot he goes to them. I think Mike is a little cheaper for doing a carb rebuild than Daytona Parts charges.

Amen to that, I`m now on my way to mail my Carter D6P2 carb`s dashpot #64-74S out for a rebuild. Apparently no one has a replacement so a rebuild is the only way I can go. You can get Carter dashpot #64-77S new from a lot of places, but unfortunately it won`t work with my carb. So off to Daytona Parts in Fla it goes, the shipping each way costs a dollar more than the rebuild costs. Paul

I gave the bumpers the same wadded up wet aluminum-foil "rub-down" and it worked wonders removing rust spots.the green patina and helped to feather-out the chrome where it was flaking. It takes very little labor to make this happen, from what I have read it is a chemical reaction that does most of the work and it does not scratch or dull the chrome like steel wool. Paul

They are activated by a switch added to the steering column that is pushed in by the reverse linkage Here is the optional backup light before I rubbed it down with wet balled-up aluminum foil to remove the green patina Here it is after a 3 minute rubdown with the wet ball of foil Paul

I could not help myself, my headliner was nearly black with dirt and nicotine staining so I started using the Tuff Stuff on it. Once again it worked like magic, I`m doing a very small area at a time and wiping it off very gently, what is transferring to the towel is incredible. It is slow going but is well worth the effort, I hope to do a panel a day. Paul

No kidding Guys this stuff works great, I only wish I had taken some "before" pictures of that drivers door panel, but when I started using it I got so excited like a "little-kid" seeing the results I couldn`t stop. I`ve been using this product for over a decade and have gotten some really bad stains out of rugs, upholstered furniture and car interiors. Grease is no challenge at all and I have even had luck with some rust stains. Paul

I had great success with the universal hub puller from Auto Zone but I will be returning it today as I found a period appropriate puller on ebay for $25 delivered. It now sits on the shelf next to the Ammoco 1750 that I discovered among the boxes of "old-car" stuff that I got with the car back in 1987. Paul

I took the wool military blankets that had been on my seats since the late 80`s off and saw how decent my seats were, so I took a shot at cleaning some of the interior with a fabric cleaner I have used for years and it worked beyond my wildest expectations. I took grease stains and dirt marks of all types off of my door panels and I started on the seats. I get it at walmart in the auto section for about $3 a can. You spray it on a small area and it foams up then immediately wipe it off with a terry cloth towel and all the dirt transfers to the towel like a magic trick. Here I did the top right side of the back seat, the difference is very noticeable Drivers door panel was black in spots with filth Paul

My original factory front floor covering was very dry and brittle and really got beat-up when I had to remove it to access floor panel to change the master cylinder. I put it back but it looks bad, and the (horse-hair ?) padding underneath it has for the most part has turned to dust. Does anyone know where I can get replacements/reproductions, mine are mostly black rubber with a camel colored carpet panel incorporated into each side and what can I use for the padding. Also the (felt ?) gasket strips under the metal floor pan are in need of replacement, any suggestions? Paul

When I still had my original gas tank I removed that plug to drain the tank, when replaced I had a slight leak from the plug. I consulted a Plumber friend of mine for advice and he told me to use a dry Ivory Soap bar to apply some soap to the plug threads, that stopped the leak.

Don just how small is that port and what is tool or device is recommended to clear it out, and if it is clogged what symptoms will the master cylinder display?

Rebuilt the master cylinder and replaced brake lines where needed. Now drilling and tapping the two cross-threaded bolts that snapped during the front floorboard removal. I will replace all the hardware with stainless steel, most of the original bolts are lousy and I don`t want to put them back in.

I believe trexlertown is about an hour south of me, I hardly ever see any antique or muscle cars in my neck of the woods. Unfortunately no Carlisle for me, two Graduation Parties to attend this weekend.

One wire and one connector was how my sender was.

My 1948 D24 has only one wire going to the tank sender, I guess it was built after the changeover.

I`m in the middle of a brake overhaul and was amazed at the price for a pressurized brake bleeder so I made one out of what I had on hand, a garden sprayer and an airlock and 5 gallon jug cork both from the local wine/beer making store. It really comes in handy in speeding up the process of bleeding the brakes.