central52
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Everything posted by central52
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So, maybe, instead of going thru the headliner, why can't I just run the wire directly from the hydraulic switch in the engine compartment and go underneath along the frame to the trunk? I'm looking at the switch and it has two wires, I assume one to the voltage regulator, and the other to the dash lighting switch. Think it would work? Ed
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Yes, I wasn't sure which way to go with the added stalk lite. I figured with the added brake lite in the regular tail lite, that's where most people in back of me would see a brake lite go on. And so, with my driving at nite is very limited, the stalk lite should be sufficient enough for people in back of me to see. Thanks for your suggestion, anyhow. I might change my mind about it in the future. I'm always open for new solutions for things. And the suggestion of checking the brake lite wires make sense. Trying to figure out how they get from the dash to the trunk. And how to run new wires. Ed
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Back, again. I noticed if I disconnect the center trunk brake lite, I'll get a brighter lite on the two tail lites that I connected to the brake lite wire. I put aluminum foil in back also, but was wondering if there is a product out there that has more reflective power, like glass. Any thoughts? Ed
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On my 47 Dodge, I spliced in the two tail lite wires into the center brake lite wire giving me three brake lites. I installed two motorcycle lites and spliced in the tail lite wires, giving me lites at night. Seems to work. Ed
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Problem solved. Horn toots beautifully. I'm embarrassed to say that it was just a simple thing like connecting two wires. One from the horn, the other to the wire that goes up the steering shaft. When I was rechecking the relay, I looked down just below the generator, and noticed a loose wire. Reaching further down, I located the other one. Plugged them together, and, voila, horn blows. Sorry to trouble you guys over this problem. Next time when something comes up, I'll check out all the options first. Ed
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OK. I think I may have misplaced the four wires on the relay. I took it out to clean the contacts, and made a diagram of where the wires should go back. Not sure now if I reconnected them properly. So, the horn does toot, Shel, then I did the next step, there is power on that first contact. So, hopefully the top two connections are correct. The bottom two, I'm going to switch, and see what happens. Ed
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Thanks, guys., good info. Love your answer, shel_ny, those pics are great. I didn't know there's a fuse in the relay. Easy to get at? Will do as suggested. Ed
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On my 47 Dodge that I just bought, the horn doesn't blow. Checked wiring as far as I can, seems ok. How can I troubleshoot this problem? Ed
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Thanks, guys, for the info. I bought the car last year, and I don't know what the previous owners had done to it. Anyhow, I think I'll just spray wd-40 into it, as suggested. By the way, DonaldSmith, did you manage somehow to put in power steering for your car. How is that possible? I'd love to have it, since it's an adventure steering my car at rest. Ed
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Cleaning the engine compartment on my 47 Dodge and I washed off a lot of gunk off the steering shaft cover. I noticed these drilled holes, and was wondering if any water got in there when I went over them. Probably did, so would that do any harm to the steering shaft when it trickled down?
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I'm 81 years old. Believe me, when you get past 65, you start to think about reliving your youth, and the cars you could of had. Right now, I have a 47 Dodge. I remember when I was 15, walking home from high school, and always passing by this 47 Dodge parked on a street. Always liked that car. And now, I finally got one. So, go with your heart. In twenty years, you might look back on today, and wished you had kept that Desoto. Ed
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Sounds simple, thanks for the info. Hmm, zero degrees isn't cold? Tell that to my toes, and ears. But, your right. The proper anti-freeze solution should easily handle the cold. But wouldn't a warmer engine block make for a little easier starting? Ed
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OK, guys, thanks for the info. I checked some websites on block heaters, and a lot of them mentioned using timers for them. But they said you can't just use a commom house timer, but one that can handle a lot of wattage. Is that right? I checked the wire from the canister, and it has a thick rubber coating. Doesn't seem frayed or torn. Does that canister have some kind of electrical wiring that warms the coolant? Curious as to how it does the job? Ed
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Yes, I plan to drive the car all year. (keep the juices flowing). Here is Connecticut it gets pretty cold sometimes in the winter. Last winter we flirted around 0 degrees for a while. So, my main concern right now is, if I plug it in, can anything bad happen? I don't when it was used last. Ed
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Yes, I saw that ebay valve and being used, who knows if it would work properly. Anyhow, how exactly does that block heater work? That canister just has electrical wires to heat the coolant? And how would it travel all the way into the block? If it works, is it a good thing to have? Or as someone has previously said, just extra plumbing that might leak. Ed
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I think you're right about it being a block heater. Traced a wire from underneath it to the front of the radiator, and there was a 3-prong plug, I guess to plug into a house outlet. Here's a pic where the hose goes into the lower engine block. . Ed
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I'm thinking about that shutoff valve from Andy Bernbaum. I can't see how it would work. Notice my pics, there's an outlet that goes down into a canister, and then into the lower engine block. What's that all about? Ed
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Ok. well I connected the two lower hoses together and clamped off the hose running from the water pump. Here's a pic. Ran car till it reached hot operating temp. No leaks, so far so good. Ed
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Hmm. looks interesting that solenoid setup. Will it fit my car? Anyhow, I just came up with the idea of just disconnecting the two upper hoses that goes into the firewall, and connecting them together. If it works, will send pics. Ed
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Thanks, Plymouth Adams, will look into that. Checked my Andy Bernbaum catalogue, he has one for $32.50. It's only for a single hose. I'd like to get one for two hoses, as my 47 Dodge has two heaters. But, I can live with just one. Ed
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Yep, a shutoff valve should do it. Now to find one at a reasonable price. Ed
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Well, drove to car show with valve one way, heat. Drove back from show, with valve turned the other way. heat. So, like someone earlier said, it leaks heat, and you just have to live with it. Damn. Ed
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good info, guys, I was able to disconnect the wire from the dash. Sprayed w40 oil on valve lever, moved it to the closed position. Going out today to a car show. Let's see what happens. Another question about this Dodge heating and cooling system. I'm looking at the manual explaining the the cowl vent, and the "weather door". What the heck is that? How do I manipulate those doors, just to get outside cool air flowing in? Thanks for bearing with me on all these questions. Ed
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Thanks, guys, for the input. My previous car, a 47 Plymouth, never had this cock-a-manie, heater setup. Here are some more pics. It does have another heater unit on the driver's side. Curious, what is that one hose going into a cylinder down below? The hose then goes into the lower engine block. Ed
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That ram hood ornament on my 47 Dodge is nice. But, I was wondering if it's supposed to have the stripes just in back of the head painted red? Ed
