dodgebrice

Thanks for the pics of the manual, neat information.

I don't have a manual to find any of that information. I found the answer to the test question through the ASE facebook page.

I found out the correct answer was 1-4-3-5-2 but still have not found out if Dodge used anything like this or what torque specs were.

I was reading an email on old ASE test questions and it got me thinking about what Dodge specified. The question was: Does anyone know the correct answer and is it what Dodge recommended for their trucks? Also what is the proper torque spec?

Thanks for the input. The 49 has 152" wheelbase so U-haul wont work. I have been looking at upgrading my trailer, currently 18' with 2 3500# axles, as I have a Ditch Witch that is really just a little to heavy for it also. Not sure if I sould upgrade axles and tires or just sell and buy a bigger one. Can not really afford either option and that is why I am also stuck using the truck I have to tow with (wanted to by a new 2500 way to much $$ right now). The main problem when I hauled the other one was the fact that the tongue weight was to much for the truck and if I rolled the load back to take weight off the tongue then it would start to sway if got to much speed. The tow dolly I have is built with 3500# axle also that is why I considered that for the short trip but just not sure if the rear tires on the 49 are good enough to make the trip? They dont seem to be dry rotted but have to be pretty old and dont have alot of tread.

Its been a while since I posted anything of even worked on my truck. Been working over 60 hours a week for past 3 years now and truck is 4 hours away. Been thinking about how to get it here and have also been talking about moving back to IA. So here are my question. My title on the truck says weight 15,000 would this be the trucks actual weight or the GVWR? Need to figure out if I can tow it with a dolly (not sure if rear wheels good enough to make long trip) or how big of trailer. I only have 78 d150 to pull with. I pulled one with no bed or engine from Kansas to IA with that truck and my car trailer, but it was really to much and a scary drive. Any Ideas? dm

Thanks for the Link.

Does anyone in the Tuscon, AR area now of a good repair shop? My sister is going to school there and needs some work done on her van. Thanks

The B-1-F had spur gears standard and the helical gear trans as an option. The B-1-G/H had helical gear as standard.

Nice truck:D, What size is it mine is a 1 1/2 ton. Have you done any work on brakes? Do you know what size the brakes are or were to find any parts?

It is a 1 1/2 ton. Does anyone have any idea about the turn signals on it? Was it an aftermarket kit? It looks like the control box for it under the dash(pic). Also it looks like it has a wire coming out of the steering box. Any idea what that would be for?

I got a chance to look it over it is still 6v. I didn't think the last owner new what he was talking about, but I wanted to be sure before I started looking for parts. Finally got pics.

I found the same problem on my Lil Red Express. When I bought it, it had rotors off a 90's dodge which use a larger inner bearing, it flopped around and wore out two sets before I figured out the problem. I had a bushing made out of stainless that pressed into the larger bearing. Seems to be working great so far.

It is a 1949 truck. It does not have a battery in it. I did not get a chance to look at the cables yet. The pictures I took are not close enough to tell for sure the color of the tag on the starter. It was delivered to my shop saturday and I only had about 15 min to look it over and take a couple of pics. My shop is 4 hrs away from were I am. Thanks for the help, I'll check it out closer when I get back over to it.

How can i tell if it is still 6v or been converted to 12v? the guy i got it from said it was 6v but it looks original what year did they switch to 12v?

I finally bought the truck. Had it delivered yesterday. Will get pics if can find the cord to download. The vin tag is missing but the title says for year and model 1949 5G. Engine number T148-44418. What do these number mean? It seems like the wheel bolt pattern is 5 on 8". Does that sound right and does anyone know of any aftermarket wheels that will fit? Some items that I will be looking for are lt side windshield, rt side door glass and maybe rt door 1/4 glass, lt side mirror (big rectangle). I would also like to install a tbi. Any ideas or hints on were to get parts. Thanks dm

I think its bucause its to cold up in the north (LOL, I'm from IA originaly). If the cylinder had a piston cocked then theirs a good chance the tolerances on the bore could be off, a machining problem. I have not heard of vpw is their stuff new or remanufactured?

unless your building a race car its not that big of a deal. The alum will transfer more heat to the fluid (not enough heat in a street vehicle to worry about) and has the chance of corroding over time which the phenolic does not.

The key word is through. If you place your ground next to the spot your welding you will be fine. If you have your housing apart to clean or repair that is the best time to do welding repair (changes) but is not necessary.

If you do a leak down test the engine needs to be run a while and warmed up to be accurate. The cylinders will seal more as the metal expands when hot.

Mills Fleet Farm has a web site you might find it on their and could order it.

How do I find the correct info to put on a new tag?

The 1 1/2 ton I am looking at buying is missing the Vin tag. Does anyone know if i can have on made and where to find the correct info that would be on it? Thanks, Dominic

With the old trucks you should update the fuel system (carb, lines, and pump) with E85 compliant parts (new rubber). It will decrease mileage because it takes more fuel for same amount of power, but would be good if you rebuild and raise compression, due to higher octane rating.

As long as the bad is not touching the drum when released it should have any effect on wear. If it has enough tension when engaged it should conform to the drum fine, unless it is really deformed.