Ivan_B

The manual looks correct, here is a quick test: Two bottom contacts are for the button, two top contacts are the actual switch doing the work

Yes, you are correct. That's probably how it all started

Well, our statements do not necessarily contradict one-another 😁 I went with LEDs (in the aforementioned application) for the extra brightness and reduced load on the alternator. I am keeping the headlights (of course) and the cluster illumination lamps stock because I like the look of the old-fashioned, authentic, "warm" lights in the cabin 😉

I am running LEDs and they are great (stops, parking lights, turn signals). I just got the brightest ones that fit the socket and clear the reflector.

You were part of this, all along 😋 That's unfortunate... I would try to retrofit these with a standard bulb, or re-use the front lens. You've got nothing to lose, it's already broken...

You better be careful with those duel bulbs 😅 I suspect that you already do have a multi-meter, so why not just test the wiring without the bulbs? Can't brake it if it ain't there 🙃

If these were mine and, of course, unless the OEM replacements are readily available, I would try to carefully grind-off the back to make it into a DIY removable-bulb. If you manage to get a good-quality hole cut, you should be able to fit a standard bulb socket of your choice in there An alternative would be to get a modern light of the same size/shape with the bulb, and attempt to swap just the front lens (glass) portion from the original lamps. Also, if you have not already done so, take the bulbs out and check your lamp contacts. It is somewhat unusual that both of them are bad 🙃

What kind of wear do you see? Any pics? If the valve/seat are worn, you might need to do some repairs, no use in lapping them. The valve/seat should have an even, straight, correct angle, flat sealing surface; if that makes any sense 😄 Also, you should probably check that the valves are straight, when you have them out (put one in a drill chuck and see how much it wobbles at the sealing edge). As for the other things to check - I've never taken these flat-heads apart, yet, sorry. So let's wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in. For the grease sponge, are you referring to the block? The best way, of course, is to take it out and properly de-grease with a pressure washer. Otherwise, yes, some de-greaser and a hose will do. Carb cleaner is also an alternative; less messy, but more expensive. Also, you might need some crazy chemicals if you want to clean those valves shiny as new. I had good results with heated CLR (placed the valves in a metal can and placed the can on the stove). Make sure that you do it outdoors or wear some good quality dust mask, because those CLR fumes are probably not very healthy 😇

His dry and wet compression tests are the same, so the rings are probably not the problem. I would inspect the #3 valves and seats, they are probably not sealing well. Once the issue is confirmed, I would check/clean/replace/lap all the valves and call it a day. There is probably no need to mess around with the pistons/crank assembly, if there are no signs of bad things inside the bores (rust, pitting, vertical marks, wear spots). For a quick valve check (assuming that a simple visual inspection does not show the problem) shine some bright LED flashlight into the exhaust\intake port and see if the light is coming through the closed valve, in a dark garage.

If it keeps leaking - yes you are. But regardless of what it is, you are likely looking at a rather time-consuming project. I would just watch your fluid levels and keep driving it.

I most certainly did not. The piston rings were okay, despite the end-gap being out of specs. The head gasket also seems okay. The only plausible explanation, at this time, is valve stem seals. These appeared somewhat well-used. Speaking about valve stem seals - I managed to waste all 16 of them, last week. I meticulously put them on, and then realized that I forgot to install the valve spring spacer washers, which go onto the stem and do not fit over the seals. What an unintelligent thing to do... 🙄😒 I even managed to take one of them off, almost without damaging it in the process, but figured out that I do not want to take any chances with these. So I had to order another set. Hopefully my new-new stem seals will come tomorrow and I'll finally put this thing back together.

Things are moving slowly. The 2 new exhaust valves are arriving today, and it is going back together 😏

This is a regular injection. The intake ports are washed with gas, the exhaust ones had plenty of carbon which was very difficult to clean. Just discovered that #1 both exhaust valves are bent. I guess I should've checked all of them right away 😒

This is impact... I also did not find anything except the markings on the head and pistons. IT was something hard, irregularly-shaped (all marks are different) and quite large. I am thinking - maybe a plug electrode tip? 😒

Just a little update: ordered bout $400 in parts (gaskets, rings, tappets) and started putting things back together. Here is a picture of the damaged head surfaces.