Mark G

another #6 pipe plug question is this checking that the valves are closed just trying to understand why everyone seems to like this method help me understand thanks

do you have his contact info ?

was not sure if Jeff does American vintage I wish his turn around time was a little quicker

does any member know of any companies that rebuild distributors I found an old post but he never got a answer he rebuilt it himself too busy doing other repairs for me to do it plus where would one find parts to do it

getting into the tune up stuff. I've found out the hardway to order this stuff with the distributor #'s the owner got the wrong stuff so far I've tracked down the correct stuff I have a IAT 4101 DISTRIBUTOR. NAPA NUMBERS for all # CAP AL106 ROTOR L107 POINTS CS719A CONDENSER AL869 Can anyone verify these numbers, last question are you using solid wire plug wires or the more modern shielded wires thanks

thanks Bill just wanted to be sure

where is this pipe plug you mentioned

good evening all I'am putting new spark pug wires on the engine where should the rotor be pointed for # 1 cylinder on the cap I can't seem to find the timing mark on the crank pulley{ is it a notch I should be looking for}? its a 1946 WC pick up flat 6cyl engine

thank you all for the insight you provided

This is where the pedals hit the rear plywood plus they come back another two inches I know the clutch pedal has an adjustment on its shaft which could be the difference but what about the brake pedal does this truck have a “rearward” stop

how do I tell if brake pedal & pushrod are correct? VIN# do you know change point

from what I can tell this was a cobbled together project that I inherited no telling what was done before I got it it came from Vermont some years ago I work on getting the pics together

thank you guys the truck I'am working on is sloppy side to side the bushing idea seems like it worked pretty well in fixing the side to side wobbly I also have a problem with the pedals hitting the rear of the floor boards like they are not "centered" in the cutouts for the pedal travel area, I have not spent too much time on to yet as most of the truck parts all came in a big pile of boxes & crates. this was a stalled restoration that I now get to put back together and hopefully get running again. Any thoughts on this problem I'm going to clean up the adjusting screws on the clutch pedal today after the garage warms up LOL I"ll try & take some pics to see if that helps to explain my problem thanks

thanks

I know its been discussed before what is the groups thoughts on which plugs are you using Champion 841 or Autolite 295 or ???

I'am getting around to installing the floor panels back into the 46 WC I'am working on. It seems the pedals are hitting the floor panels. Does the clutch pedal have a bushing the wears ? it feels sloppy on the clutch shaft and the clutch arm seems like it goes back too far on the t/o bearing. I know the pedal has 2 adjustment nuts to move its placement on the shaft I've got the 2 return springs to bring the pedals back 1 for clutch- 1 for brake

Thanks I’am in South Jersey 08028 if anyone is close let me know

Will a New Jersey person be welcome to the club if so thanks in advance IMG_0093.HEIC

Thanks all the owner bought plenty of 1/O cable and ends for me to complete the cables portion of the job

thank you Ed

I'm working on a 46 WC pickup where is the original battery mounting location for this truck, mine is located under driver side floor, reason I'm asking is that there is a access cover under right side under the seat bottom is this just a different mounting point for a different model?

thanks

Thanks for answering I do have all the "cable building tools" I need just wanted to see what everyone was using thanks but I will check them out

where did you get a 8 volt battery?

How many different configurations of head light switches are there mine has a fuse going through the center of it working on a 46 WC it it matters? and it has screw terminals on it also