Jim Yergin

Bob, I am no expert but since first and second mesh with different gears on the cluster, I would think it more likely the noise would come from the bearings rather than the cluster. I can also tell you that, after dissassembling and assembling my transmission two or three times, it is not all that difficult to do the repairs yourself. If I can do it anyone can. If you are looking for a cluster you might want to check with Len Dawson at Deception Pass Motors. I got my cluster from him and he had the best price by far. Jim Yergin

Rodney, Which one of your cars were you driving? Jim Yergin

By "cluster gear" do you mean the countershaft gear assembly? If so, the part numbers are different for those years. 1936-1939 used 661302, 1940 used 853885, and 1941-1948 used 697823. That does not mean that they won't interchange. I have installed a "fast second" gear and countershaft assembly from a 1940 Plymouth in my 1953 O/D transmission. The 1939 countershaft assembly may go into the 1940 transmission but you may also have to install the 1939 second gear. Sorry I can't be of more help. Jim Yergin

Thanks Merle. I am pretty sure it is leaking at the gasket seal. I will check the anaerobic gasket maker out. Jim Yergin

Thanks Ed. The second time I did use a thicker gasket material but it still leaked. Jim Yergin

My O/D transmission leaks where the adaptor plate joins the rear case. I have replaced the gasket twice. The second time I used the copper spray gasket sealant. It still leaked. I am about to dissassemble the transmission again to replace the over-ride clutch. I am considering using RTV gasket maker on the leaking joint to stop the leak. Is that a good idea? Should I use it with the paper gasket or without the paper gasket? If I use it with the gasket I assume I apply it to both sides. Is there a particular preferred RTV material? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks. Jim Yergin

I am no expert but it sounds like it to me. Jim Yergin

Joe, It looks like you have turned a major corner. It is great when things start going back together. Congratulations. Jim Yergin

You should be able to verify that you have both sets of holes by dropping the cover pan and taking a look. I don't know the spline count but I used the same transmission input shaft with both the 9 1/4 inch clutch and the 10 inch clutch. No difference in the number of splines. I also had a spare input shaft to use a a clutch alignment tool. Jim Yergin

I replaced the 9 1/4 inch clutch on my 230 engine in my '41 P12 with a 10 inch clutch. My flywheel had the bolt holes for both sizes. I did it without removing the engine. As stated, you do have to remove the drive shaft and transmission. You reach the clutch by taking off the lower coverpan and rotating the engine to access the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel. I removed the spark plugs and had no trouble turning the engine by hand at the flywheel. I used a scissors floor transmission jack from Harbor Freight and the car raised up on all four wheels to provide adequate clearance. The transmission jack made a world of difference both removing and especially in installing the transmission. It was well worth the $90 purchase price. Jim Yergin

Joe, Terrific work. I bet you will love working in the hot weather this weekend. At least the humidity isn't as bad. Jim Yergin

Dave, I used a crank and rods from a Dodge 230 in my Plymouth engine with a standard transmission and clutch. The Dodge had fluid drive and there was no pilot bushing. The opening in the end of the crank was too small to accept the pilot bushing. I didn't discover that until I had assembled the engine so I didn't have the ability to have the opening machined to open it up. Instead, I put the pilot bushing on my drill press and used a file to reduce the diameter of the pilot bushing to fit the opening. After a 1000 miles it is still working. I also used a flywheel from a late '50's plymouth. It only had 6 bolt holes. The ring gear was different and I swapped it out with an earlier version to make it work. Jim Yergin

Thanks Robert. I will give it a try. Jim Yergin

Dave, Just to set the record straight, my '41 P12 has a foot pedal operated starter. I don't know when the cars went to the relay, maybe '42? Jim Yergin

Greg, Looks good. Thanks for sharing. Jim Yergin

Robert, My car suffers from droopy passenger side door handle. What is the cure? Thanks. Jim Yergin

I finally got around to dealing with the fast idle. I retarded the timing as suggested by Don Coatney. That did not do it. Yesterday I replaced the vaccuum advance and now the car idles just fine. Thank you James Curl. When I removed the fitting on the old vaccuum advance to transfer it to the new one, I found gasoline pooled up inside. What does that indicate? Jim Yergin

Pete, I figured that that is what I am going to have to do. Do you have any idea as to what would make the roller cage stick? BTW, did you ever install the relocated truck shock absorber arms on your car? Jim Yergin

I just did what I should have done before making my post, I checked the Borg-Warner manual. It says that my condition can be due to broken rollers in the roller clutch, sticking of the roller cage on the cam, or worn cam faces. I replaced the roller bearings so they are new and were not broken when I reassembled the transmission. That leaves the other two possibilities. The manual says that to correct the worn cam surfaces problem the cam must be replaced. However, the manual does not say what would cause the roller cage to stick or how to correct the problem. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks. Jim Yergin

After my clutch failure a few weeks ago, I took my P12 Woodie off the road to fix the clutch and re-install the O/D transmission that I had removed earlier because it would not shift into third. I upgraded to a 10" clutch. Discovered that the bearings on the main shaft in the transmission had failed. Had the pilot tip of the shaft spray welded and reassembled the transmission with new synchro rings. Also took the time to wire up the O/D controls which I had never done. I even took the time to replace my broken speedometer cable and replace the broken odometer mileage wheel assembly and install my radio. Got everything back together last night and decided to drive the car to work this morning. Started it up, let up on the clutch but the car would not move. At first I assumed the new clutch was not engaging. However, when I pulled the O/D control cable out to lock-out the O/D, the car drives just fine. What is going on in the transmission so that the car will not move if the O/D is not locked out? At least I can drive the car again but I would like to get the O/D to work. Our local Woodie club is having a tour to Appomattox Couthouse on the 25th. It is 130 mile one way so I hope to get any remaining bugs worked out before then. Jim Yergin

Don, Sorry to hear about the problem. But didn't you say that even with the bad vacuum advance the car ran well with the old distributor? Would using the old distributor at least make it possible to drive to Tim's? Jim Yergin

Ed, That factory turn signal switch on the '41 Windsor could be a very rare item. If the '41 Windsor is like the '41 Plymouths it had the gear shift rod on the top of the column instead of on the side where the post war models have it. The turn signal switch is therefore different if the gear shift rod is on top. The post war turn signal switches are not that common but they are available whereas I have only seen pictures of the pre-war Plymouth turn signal switches. I am using a post war turn signal switch on my '41 Plymouth but had to modify it to use it with the top of the column gear shift rod placement. Jim Yergin

Andy, I don't think they are common. I have seen a heck of a lot more of the die cast ones. I don't know the reasons for the variety. I always thought the ones with the flat parking lights were very early in the run and the stand up ones replaced them. As for the materials used, I had the impression that it had to do with the unavailability of certain materials because of the war. Maybe there was a need to save on chrome that caused the use of stainless steel. I also know that there were front grill panels made out of aluminum instead of steel. Would be interesting to know the real reason. Jim Yergin

Andy, I found them years ago at Chryslers at Carlisle. Probably the first and last time I ever found any old Mopar parts at that swap meet (predominately muscle car era otherwise). I will keep an eye out for them for you. Jim Yergin

I don't know the clearance measurement but I have the AAJ Brakes set-up on both my front and rear wheels on my '41 P12. I use my original wheels with no problems. Jim Yergin