oldodge41

I went out to the garage this morning and fabbed one up with some flanges made from 1/4" plate and a piece of 2" pipe welded in between. I took it out for a test run and everything worked great. I still may have an adapter made like you describe. I think it would be stronger and I'm sure a machine shop would have everything centered up better than I can do with a hand held drill and a 4-1/2" grinder, which would reduce wear, although I didn't have any vibration. The pinion flange has a 3" circumference pattern while the u-joint pattern is less but different on each axis, so I rotated my flanges to offset the bolts from each other to spread the weight more evenly. Andyd,thank you for your interest and input. It felt good to take the '41 for a ride even if it was only a half mile up the road and back.

Jacob Perkins knows the answer.

Yes but he got his info from Oliver Evans I'm told!

How about a piece of steel, about 1-2" thick, machined to sit flush against the diff flange, with drilled holes and use allen headed cap screws countersunk into the steel piec thru the diff flange or bolted from the diff side into threaded holes in the adaptor, then mount the driveshaft flange onto the steel adaptor the same way........I wouldn't use a piece of tube tho' unless the centres of the bolts on both the flanges intersect.........andyd

Thanks Andydodge! I like that idea. Any idea what something like that would cost at a machine shop? I've never had any machine work done.

I have installed a furd 8.8 rear differential in my '41 D-19 cpe. The 8.8 has a flat flange on the pinion and my Dodge drive-shaft has ball and trunnion u-joints. What I am looking for is a way to adapt the flange on the pinion to the flange on my u-joint. I know I can have a drive-shaft made with cross type u-joints and buy the adapters to mount it, but, my u-joints are both as good as new and I don't want to spend the cash for a new drive-shaft and adapters, plus I think the old ball and trunnions are cool. I need to make my adapter 1-1/2 inches long to get my u-joint in its original location. I am thinking maybe two flanges with a piece of 2" pipe welded between them. 2" because that is the clearance I need for the 8.8 flange bolt and centering ring. Anyone know of a ready made adapter? Or maybe a better / different idea? By the way the rest of the drivetrain will remain flat six with fluid drive so i don't need some race or ultra heavy-duty setup. Thanks, Tim

The 41 Dodge of course.

Hope everything is ok, really enjoying following your trip.

Have a safe trip!

Thanks for the warm welcome guys! I live just about dead center of PA. About 40 miles west of State College and Penn Sate University.

Hi all, I have been lurking around for a couple weeks. I really like the atmosphere here. I have a 1941 Dodge Business Cpe, it is a D-19 but alot of the stuff is the same as the D-24/P-15 from what I see here. It was a barn find 20 years ago that my Dad and I fixed up from pretty sad shape. Came a long way. Been very reliable in stock configuration. I've been fighting brake problems the last couple years off and on, master cylinder and wheel cylinders. The most recent is a rear brake drum that broke. It has had a chip in the outer edge that I have watched for years and it has now developed into a crack. Couldn't find a reasonably priced replacement and I have wanted to change rear gears for a long time so I am in the process of installing an 8.8 Explorer rear. I am not modding anything that I can't return to completely stock in the future if I decide I want to, but for now, economics dictate that if I want to keep driving it I have to use more modern (cheaper) parts to keep it going. I'm ok with that as long as what I do is reverse-able if I get the originality bug. I have entertained thoughts of street rodding it in the past but always decide that it is too cool as is. Fluid Drive and all. you just can't buy 'em like that anymore! My name is Tim and I am from Pennsylvania.