49powerwagon

That pilothouse seems to miss the whole point of pilothouses to me. I don`t mind it being hotrodded, but it seems to me to be engineered right past the point of logic.

Don, in my reading I found that all the old sodium valves had a larger stem to hold the sodium, and they stuck with the smaller end to use standard retainers and such. Hence needing larger guides as well. And if anybody has any sources for sodium valves for the 23" blocks, I`m still looking.

Sorry to bring up this topic again, but I have an oddball, I think. 23" block, number is US.24 I3976I What have I got? Also, the engine is blue and it looks like the original color.

That is a good price, but they are for a 25" block and everything I see says they are different. Keeping my eyes open, though. And with the larger valve stem, do I need another guide, or ream the standard guide?

I`m getting a pile of parts together for my 230 build, and so far have come up with one question. I am looking for advice on exhaust valve selection. This is going to be a truck motor, and used as such. The truck regularly has a GCVW upwards of 15,000LBS, and the flattie works hard to keep it moving. Keeping that in mind, I am wondering if sodium filled exhaust valves as original in the truck motors would provide better durability than a modern stainless valve, or if I would be better off saving money and buying regular valves. I asked my engine guru and he said that he would go with regular valves because modern lubricants will do more to protect the guides and conduct heat away than the old valves did. Any advice??

When you say it comes back up to 5-10 psi, That is not that encouraging. My 230 runs 35psi at idle, and it is worn out and needs a rebuild. Pressure dropping from 40 cold to 5-10 warm could very well indicate an engine that is not going to live much longer. DO NOT drive it with such low pressure, find your problem first. If it is a supply problem, fix it. If it is worn bearings, you are better to park it and fix it, if you keep driving it with a worn bottom end, the failure will be spectacular and expensive:eek:

Teflon tape has always worked just fine on headbolts for me, always used it, never had a leak. It`s temperature range should never be exceeded in your cooling system, not much hotter than a boiler system after all.

I got my PH off of craigslist, it was listed for $600, and I traded a `69 C10 chevy for it. I originally was gonna pull the 230 to build to replace the one in my Power Wagon, but the more I looked at it, and sat in the seat, the fonder I got. After I got her running, and heard a flattie that flat embarassed the wheazy 230 in my PW, I was sold. And then my girlfriend saw it. Now I get to fix up a PH, and am in the market for a `39-`47 dodge truck Best thing is, she wants the `51 for a daily driver:cool:

I know that most new synthetics claim compatability with petroleum based, but I still go with the old rule of never mixing the two. I once pulled apart a John Deere Gen-set engine that had had the two mixed, and the oil set up like jello, so stiff the scattered pieces of rotating mass didn`t sink. Spooky.

That truck should do just fine. You have 120 +/- ft/lbs of torque and 4 gears to tow under 10,000lbs, the trucks I work on everyday have 1200 or so ft/lbs and 10 to 18 gears to tow 110,000 or more. Pretty even, when you look at torque per pound. Long grades will not be a problem, but you will not be topping the hill in top gear. Think like you are driving a real truck, not a pickup. You might have to top some steep hills in 2nd or even 1st gear, no biggie, look how slow a lowboy truck will pull the same hill loaded to 200,000lbs! And don`t rely on the brakes, come off the hills in a low gear to keep your speed down (being from Alaska, when I think hills, I think hills) so you don`t burn out your brakes. Take it slow and easy and that truck will do great. Get in a great big hurry, you might be getting cursed around here for taking a nice truck out with you when you go.

Usually the trucks are limited lower than the cars, in my `49 truck manual, all engines are at 3000-3200, with my 230 at 3200. Trucks were expected to be carrying a LOT more weight than a car, making the engine work that much harder, and to be used at full load more frequently, as in the aformentioned 8 hours per day.

I`m glad to see that me and my dad ain`t the only ones who pick apart shiny rigs! My mom had just about stopped going to car shows with us because she always thought we didn`t like the car because we picked out all the paint runs and bondo and such:D

My B3-D has stepped bore cylinders all the way across, and seeing as how the master is the same as on a power wagon, the same slaves make sense to me.

I ordered all my brake parts for my B3-D from vintage power wagons, they are all the same as on my power wagon, except lines and hoses.

I would go get the truck just for the drive myself if I could afford it, I have driven the ALCAN quite a few times, but have never really had the chance to slow down and enjoy it, was always on a schedule. And after trailering my power wagon from Washington state I know how much it costs to drag a truck up here. Maybe if my tow rig wasn`t such a gas hog..... I do have the dream of driving my power wagon to the states once I get it fixed up and reliable (don`t think "restored" is the right word for that truck:rolleyes: ) to visit all the people who saw it being trailered north. 6000 miles at 45? If that ain`t slowed down, I don`t know what is:D

Usually I like living up here. I would take the whole truck off your hands, but by the time I got it up here, I couldn`t afford to pay for it! Please don`t crush that thing, it is in better shape than mine from the looks of it, hopefully someone can take it off your hands. On a more realistic note, I would be interested in the ignition system, voltage regulator, and maybe the carburetor, or even the carb with both manifolds. I wouldn`t mind the whole engine, depending on where in canada you are, truck shipping might be reasonable. There are a few other pieces I could really use, if you are not going to scrap it right away I might be able to afford more later this summer.

As far as the wheels not being together right, I lean away from that theory just because the brakes worked just fine for 8 months before this happened, and the wheels have never come off, and I can lock up each wheel with each shoe, so I know they are all macking contact with the drum. I checked for free play between the piston and pushrod, as well as making sure the releif port is uncovered by the piston at rest. I replaced all the flex hoses when I did the lines, and inspected the blocks. I would think an air leak would show up in the form of air in the system, which never happened. Right now brainstorming is all I can doas the truck is 350 miles away right now, so I won`t be able to try again for a few weeks.

When I adjusted out the shoes, I tried adjusting all the shoes out until the wheel was locked and wouldn`t turn, with no change. After sitting over night I re-bled the lines and there was still no air coming out. Another thing I forgot to mention is that if the reservoir is over about 1/3 to 1/2 full, after you pump the pedal to get brakes and then release the pedal, the reservoir will overflow and force fluid out the breather hole.

I think I could use some advice on my brakes. This is on my `49 B1-PW, but they are mechanically the same as my B3-D. A little over a year ago I replaced all 4 slaves, every hose and line, and rebuilt my master. The brakes worked great for about 8 months, then I started having to pump the brakes to get them to work. I figured the master was going bad (didn`t trust the rebuild), and was sure when it started leaking out the back as well. After being parked for winter, I just put a new master on from vintage power wagons this weekend, and I still have to pump the pedal. Once I pump it 4-5 times I have good brakes and it is hard as a rock, but as soon as I let my foot off for more than a half-second, I lose them and have to pump again. I bled the brakes and was getting no more air, and no change. Then I adjusted the shoes out against the drums to make sure the slaves were not having to travel to far, no change. I really hope this is not another bad master. This is my work truck for getting firewood and hauling dirt and such, and also until I get it working right again, I can`t work on getting my B3-D running.

I`ve only dealt with mags on aircraft and two-strokes, both of which can be started by hand quite easily (hand-propping a GO-300 six is not fun or recommended, though). I have also seen pics of older chrysler stationary engines with a mag and no electric start, so the hard starting would not be one of my bigger concerns. the lack of advance would be an issue, though. So now I need to find out if they offered a mag with an advance curve. On a side note, is there any truth to me having been told that a slant-6 dist. would fit a flathead?

Anyone ever play with running a magneto off a chrysler industrial flathead in an automotive application? I am tossing the idea around, and trying to find one.