meadowbrook

Hello folks. My 50 Dodge's 's driveshaft located parking brake drum is also the sealing surface for the trans rear seal. THe sealing surface is a bit pitted with corrosion where the seal rides. Do you folks think I could fix that with a light dabbing of jb weld to fill in the pits ? Either that or a new drum, which seems unavailable.

Hi all. I have the parts to install the PCV system in my 50 Dodge. Im wondering if sharing the wiper's vacuum port in the intake would work for the vacuum source. Dont feel. Like removing the whole intake and exhaust manifolds to drill a new port.

Does anyone know of a source for those thin copper sealing washers used on the bottom of the Stromberg BXVD3 carbs, fuel bowl to seal the threaded plugs that give access to the jets?

I have been using the Amsoil 15-40 Diesel. My queston is, the trans weeps oil, would a change to non synthetic 15w40 or Gl1 gear lube help that?

Hi folks, any recommendations on the oil to use in a Borg Warner R7 overdrive? I bought mine from that guy in Venus, PA and he recommended 15w40 Amsoil.

What a great set of posts, I also have a 50 Meadowbrook. I thought yours might be a Coronet because of the Dodge crest in the center part of the grille, mine only has a little cross. Amazing how the piston in your car was all broken. Mine has a slight knock too when warm but good oil pressure. P Love the way you write.

What a great set of posts, I also have a 50 Meadowbrook. I thought yours might be a Coronet because of the Dodge crest in the center part of the grille, mine only has a little cross. Amazing how the piston in your car was all broken. Mine has a slight knock too when warm but good oil pressure. P Love the way you write.

Wheelbase is distance between rear and front axle center lines, not vehicle width.

Checked it and it is to spec, I think I even lowered it a bit.

I rebuilt my Stromberg and aside from the leaking threaded plug below the fuel bowl, I seem to have a leak coming from slot in the middle of the carb through which the accelerator pump link comes through. Any thoughts?

I rebuilt my Stromberg and aside from the leaking threaded plug below the fuel bowl, I seem to have a leak coming from slot in the middle of the carb through which the accelerator pump link comes through. Any thoughts?

Wouldn't the damper hole in the bowl cause more evaporation? And speaking of Stromberg, I just replaced the Carter in my Dodge with a Stromberg because of the damper because I have fluid drive. Does anyone know where to get those little copper orings to seal those two plugs in the bottom of the fuel bowl?

My 50 was never rebuilt as far as I know and has 80000. But compression is below spec. Runs great and does not smoke.

Oh and call Asche for the solenoid

Try to apply 6v to it and see if it works. Unlike the R10, all the solenoid does is disengage the OD if you power it, usually done through a switch somewhere between the pedal and carb. So you could drive the car without it, its not like you get all that much more power by downshifting

George Asche is a good resource. I have an R7 in my 1950 4 door Meadowbrook with Fluid Drive, so it has the proper input shaft. Mine was a straight swap, no changes needed on the driveshaft, shift linkage, etc.

I just installed a mechanical fuel/vacuum pump and although the wiper does snow down at wide open throttle, it never stops.

My dad has a Jaguar with leather covers on the springs.

Just saw a similar switch on eBay i like the turn signal idea because mine is very bright, to the point it's distracting at night...I guess I never forget it on then. I still will wire in a buzzer.

Hi, I am tired of forgetting my parking brake on and frying it. Does anyone know of a good source of new parking brake bands ? I plan on setting up a buzzer to come on till I release it.

Hello all. Well, I installed the proper Stromberg BXVD3 in my '50 Dodge and the dashpot feature works to keep from stalling on. But I noticed there is always wetness at the cast iron throttle body. Fuel seems to leak from the throttle shafts and from the arm that connects the throttle to the accelerator pump. Anyone know of a place that can maybe rebush the throttle spindle? I don't notice a lot of slop and maybe it's normal to have some seepage? Somehow I seem to remember the Carter was smoother. We'll see.

My carb has been rebuilt, the ignition is excellent and the valves adjusted to spec. I don't think the oil pressure is bad, it is per spec by my shop manual and 10 PSI at a very hot idle seems reasonable based on past experience and the '10 psi per 1000 rpm' rule. I really think the issue is likely rings or valves, I'll check. Thanks for all the responses.

Lots to think about. Will perform a hot compression check and leakdown and update you guys. Thanks for the responses.

My 50 dodges 230 has 90k miles and has not been rebuilt. It has great oil pressure, 50 psi at speed and never less than 10 in the hottest idle at 500 rpm. But compression is low, about 60-80 psi cold. No head gasket leaks into coolant (I tested for in coolant Exhaust). It runs fine and starts readily but it does idle kind of rough, even after a carb mixture adkustment giving me the highest vacuum. Would it be worth it to pull the head and perform a valve job? Maybe a re ring and hone if the cylinder walls look ok?

Hi. I am in process of replacing the incorrect Carter BB in my Meadowbrook with the correct Stromberg BXVD-3. So far I feel like the Carter worked better. I am still tuning the Stromberg but although it is true that the throttle dashpot works well to keep from stalling, it also seems to hang up a bit on deceleration, making the car rev higher. I will keep decreasing the damping adjustment but welcome any tips. Also is there a resource on the jetting of this carb or were they all the same for the 230? I rebuilt mine but it seems to leak gas from the area near the dashpot linkage where it is attached to the throttle shaft every time I pump the throttle. Any thoughts? Anyone have a similar experience? Are the Carters better carbs?