Mustang6147

DOT3 or 4 is more then enough for these vehicles. I use the synthetic. DOT 4 or 5 would be good if you road raced, and there were high heat situations. I might also add, if you replace you brake lines, slide the fitting back, and put some anti seize on the tube, then slide the fitting over over it and up to the flair and screw it in. This will help you if you ever disconect the line, because the line always twists, when you unscrew it.

When changing from injected to carburated it is much more then simply induction. The cam is designed for an induction system. If you have a cam with a grind favorable to injection, the engines performance will dropp off with a carburator. Ignition curve is also different. New engines incorporate cam timing. Ford reffers to this as "Cam Phasers" BMW or Honda say variable cam timing... They are all going to this.

This is an intresting discussion... The crankcase has no connection to the exhaust. If it does theres a problem. The egr system simply moves exhaust,(which heats up fast ) to the intake manifold so fuel atomization can take place during warm up. White smoke coming out of oil breathers, valve covers, or and PCV system hoses ect during warm up is slightly normal. After the engine is warm, is a sign of a tired cylinder, reffered to as Ring blowby. Very common when looking at any used car, pop the oil cap off while its running, if there is alot of white smoke, walk away unless you want to rebuild the engine. There is always a level of oil contamination from combustion. Normal oil change intervals take care of that with the use of detergent oil. Air compressors use non detergent for that reason. I am some what new to these forums, but no stranger to engines.

I dont know if I agree totaly with the original post. Simply put, I would if the oil was just sitting there stagnant. Oil is constantly being rotated sloshed around, and as it is stirred up by normal operation, the moisture is going to steam off. Simply put, If you run an engine up to operating temp it should be fine ragardless. That is why grandma's car has an oil pan the rusted from the inside out. Crankcases historically have preassure. In race application, you connect the PCV system to a vacume pump, or like olds did in the 90's. or hook them to the collector of the header. The PCV system simply keeps the crank case from building to much preassure and blowing out gaskets. Oil Pan , valve cover ect... A cool engine is a happy engine... Todays high temps are because of pollution control, and sensors. These flatheads are not todays engines.

I dont know what your car is, but I have a 41 plymouth, and am using the ECI kit for the specific car. There is a thread called "diskbrake droppped uprigths, and ne mastercylinder" alot of guys there are doing what you inquire about on there cars. At the end of the thread you can see where one guy is helping me, and posting pics. As stated Mine is a 41 Plymouth.

Jim... That is the info I was lookin for. I hate to do something somebody already did, and it didnt work. I notice the rod goes forward from the brake peddle, the to a pivot mouted on the fram. I assume that bolts on in the place of the MC bracket, then the rod goes down to the new Dual Cyl MC... Do you still have the part number for the ECI kit? I am thinking from talking to ECI all parts included.

I am a Teamster Truck Driver for YRCW. (local) I have held positions of Steward, and now an Alternate. I am a president of a Unit in the WBCCI. I have certificates in Distribution and logistic Management, and Supply Chain Fundementals. I am finishing an Employment law course at BGSU this friday, and hope to add this to my credentials. I want out of trucking...

The love of cars, and drag racing is what ultimatly took our relationship to the next level. While she is a Chevy person, and has her Camaro's, and vettes. She did race a 40 Ford. I am a diehard Ford guy that races a Mustang. We landed up with a Plymouth Street Rod. Non the less, the love of the Automobile, and being around this crowd as diverse as it is, is great. We do agree we have no use for the new Jap stuff. She totaly supports this hobby, and sometimes is the driving force on troubling projects...

That is what I am concerned about. The peddle travel, and ECI mount up. I am wondering if I should just leave the single cylinder in it for now. I really hate to though.

This thread by Tank, and reading everybodies input was a breath of much needed new life in my ongoing project. Brake tech solutions does alot with muscle car upgrades, and has quite the facility. Pat the tech guy was very helpful, and kept me up to date with progress. I stumbled on them, and got lucky. I need to figure out which direction I am going with a Master Cylinder now... If I fab a bracket for a regular Master Cylinder, will the throw , or peddle free play not allow it to work properly?

I am looking for opinions, options, or general input on putting a dual Master Cylinder on my 41 Plymouth. I really want to keep it mounted on the frame. I would love to find one that simply bolts up where I took the old single cylinder one off.

Here is a clearance picture...

I hate to repost everything... But in a nut shell. Brake Tech Solutions brakes conversion kit. The only mod to the steering arms are I took some meat off the rear bolt. No counter sinking... I dought I had to take anything off the rear bolt. I bent the right side arm down... That is it. This was super easy thus far, but I am having master cylinder issues, trying to get the dual MC converted. I need a bracket. Does anyone know who makes one, without spending the mortgage on an ECI setup???

I am using FatMan dropped uprights. I sent the spindles out to Brake Tech Solutions in Charlotte. I trimmed down the meat on the steering arms, I may not have even had to do that. ??? I called FatMan to see if I was missing something, and they said no. But they never tried there kit with the brakes I am using. I had to bend down the right side arm (straight one) But the reason FatMan gave to me for putting both tie rod ends in from the bottom, is the reason why I want to leave them alone??? I am thinking there thoughts were on a steering system using an idler arm. I have a bone stock front end. I have 11 inch rotors, calipers mounted toward the rear 5on 4-3/4 bolt pattern.

I always order anything stock from Andy Burnbaum. You can google the name to get the info. They are always there, and very helpfull.

I put the tires on to see how it would look. It seems cool. I did not have to counter sink the bolts in the steering arms though, as FatMan stated. I did trim the arms down, but now I wonder if I had to do that also...

I simply bought the stock springs. The drop uprights should get a nice raked look to it.

I will try to attach 2 pics

my 41 Plymouth. I read this article the day I joined this forum. I had my Plymouth in the back garage stored. This post, and these threads, and Tankwilson, and a few others who I dont even know motivated me to the point, that I had it tore down, and parts sent out by 4pm. Now I am in the home stretch or reassemebly. I found some rotted parts, and the hotrod gods in the sky were smiling down, I found all the parts, and ordered everythiong that eve. I have belonged to other forums, and when somebody takls about there car discipline is issued for thread hijacking... I never understood the concepts of multiple same topic threads, this forum doesnt appear to be that. I would post pictures if I can, or it is OK to do... This $$ was earmarked for drage racing this year, and some updated chassis work on my mustang. Looks like that aint happnen. My girl is very happy I am doing this update though.

I put an electric pump on my 41 Plymouth. I am not sure about trucks, but the flathead in the plymouth I was told uses lower fuel preassure??? 3 psi?. I put a Facet pump from NAPA on it 3 or so years ago and have had no problems. I put it right in front of the rear tire on the frame rail. The Facet pump only costed me $20.00. It does make it easier to start when it sits, I dont have to crabnk the engine to get fuel in the carb, just turn the key on and waite a minute then crank it and she goes...

I got my uprights... Maybe there was a comunication issue at Fatman, but they were supposed to ship them out wed, instead, I got them wed... I am happy. But I was hoping for an update from Tank, and pictures to... It seems the caliper are forward, instead of behind???

Here is what it is... First of all, that photo was taken in California, in 1940. The diesel loco depicted behind it Debut around 1939 by EMD predisessor to EMC which was a division of GM. The vehicle in question is a very rare 1937 Lincoln Zephyr Club Coup. It was powered by a V-12. The sales pitch for that engine, since it ran so smooth is, The salesmen would stand a nickel on end, and it would stay. Very smooth engine. From left to right; #1-Black Car; 1933 Chrysler Sedan #2-White Car; 1937 Lincoln Zephyr #3-Gray Car ; 1936 Dodge D2 Sedan #4-Black Car; 1935 Ford Sedan ( In that year the sedan sold for $620.00 the convertible for &750.00) There is a little debate about if the lincoln is a late 36 model, but 37 is more likely

E3 plugs are a pattended design electrode that focuses on fuel burn. The E3 name is derived from Energy, Efficiency and Ecology. These plugs are supposed to give any car added fuel economy, and increased performance. I personally no nothing about them, other then they came stock in my lawn mower, that offers 1 pull starting. Anytime a new plug comes on the market I remember the old Splitfire name, and how many pistons got holes burned in them because of there hot burn. The only way to tell for sure is to try them, and see if they work. The old adige misery loves company will cause alot of exagerated claims, and as with any new product, Marketing is key to its success. I am a diehard Autolite fan.

That looks really bad... You did a hell of a job on the chop. It is suttle enough to change the whole look.

What a guy. I love that vid on his sight... He is rodding in the sky now...