Barry Maxwell

Reg: Thanks for the offer, but I have both mirror arms. I just haven't mounted them because they would get in the way as I move around the truck. Thanks again. Barry

To All: After 4+ years of work sandwiched between farm work, orchard work, building maintenance, etc., my son and I finally started my '51 B3C and it runs!! We set the points, adjusted the timing, put 5 gal. of fuel in the tank and hit the starter. Much to my surprise it started on the first turn of the engine and produced 40 psi oil pressure, 160 deg. water temp., and 17-18 in. Hg. vacuum, a good charging rate, and it purrs like a kitten. I backed it out of the shop and ran it around the farm for a bit in first and second gear and it stops. After I got it back in the shop the fuel bowl attached to the carb started spraying fuel on the engine (not a good thing). I shut it down, cleaned up the fuel (fortunately no fire) and determined that one of the four tapped holes for the bowl cover is stripped. I contacted Mark Fritsche (ggdad1951) about a replacement. He thinks he may have one but he won't know for sure until he completes his move into his new house. I have attached several photos of the grand day. Barry

The wedge goes towards the window. Mine were a little long, so I trimmed them back a little. Barry

Bobacuda: I had my seats (51 B3C) redone by a local shop and they did a great (but pricey) job. Although I didn't remove the seats, I did check several of your measurements. A summary is shown below: * Your height of the front of seat bottom = 8-1/2". Mine is 7" * Your height of the side of the seat bottom = 8". Mine is 7" * Your distance between the steering wheel and the seat back = 11". Mine is 14" * Your width of the top of the seat back = 6-1/4". Mine is 4" Since I didn't remove my seats, these are the only measurements I could get. If I have done it correctly, there should be a photo of my seats attached. Hope this helps. Barry

Thanks guys. One of my lights is hooked up correctly and one is not. I can fix that with a simple switch of bullet connectors. Thanks again. Barry

I have installed dual filament bulbs in the front parking lights of my '51 B3C. One filament is brighter than the other. My question is should the brighter filament be for the parking light function and the dimmer filament be for the turn signal function or vice versa? Many thanks. Barry

Thanks Merle. I assumed that was the case, but I wasn't sure. Barry

Page 23-12 of my Mopar Parts List shows the bumpers (23-08-40) and the fuzzy weatherstrip (23-63-97) which is also a bear to install after the glass is in place. The bumpers go in slots on the inner edge of the window opening. The weatherstrip goes on the outer edge of the opening. Barry

Mark: I hope that you didn't think I was serious. Since the door rubber starts about 1" beyond the division bar and the cab rubber ends about 1" beyond the welded seam, it appears that both rubbers will overlap by 8-9". I assume that is not a problem. Correct? Barry

The rubber bumpers definitely go into two slots on the inside edge of the top of the window opening. They are a bugger to install after the window is in place. Barry

Thanks Mark. That ends my questions on this topic. Barry

Mark: Perfect. Just what I needed. On a related topic, a Forum member emailed me asking which side or sides of the cab rubber are cemented to the door. I responded that I "think" that the two sides that are at right angles to each other are the ones that attach to the door, and the thin angular flange goes out as indicated in the video. Correct, or is it only necessary to cement the side that is against the cab? Sorry to be such a pain. Barry

Mark: Yes, it helps. I found the bump and it matches the bump on the rear of the door, just above the horizontal seal on the cab. Now my fuzzy head is beginning to clear up somewhat. Wonders never cease! If you can get a photo which shows the path of the seal as it goes down to the bump, it would be appreciated. Since I have a medical issue that will be dealt with on Fri., there is no rush. I don't expect that I will be back in the shop until the weekend (hopefully). Thanks for walking me through this. Barry

Thank you all for your responses. Very helpful - particularly tips to work with shorter sections of the rubber and the use of tape on either side of the rubber. The adhesive from Roberts is Permatex. It may be that the tube I got is bad. It doesn't flow and is difficult to get out of the tube and it mostly comes out in globs. I think I will go with 3M super weather strip adhesive as mentioned by several of you. The video from Mark (ggdad1951) is both very helpful and somewhat confusing (at least to me). I understand that the cab rubber runs from near the bottom of the door opening and ends just beyond the seam at the A-pillar. No problem. The confusing part deals with the door rubber. It runs from just behind the division bar down the rear of the door and is supposed to end near a "bump" in the door. I can't find the "bump". Further, I don't see how the rubber is supposed to get by the door check and door hinge. Obviously I am missing something in my understanding. If the door rubber was to run from just behind the division bar down the rear of the door, there is a "bump" about opposite to the horizontal seal on the cab. That would mean that both the door and cab seals would be in contact with each other when the door is closed. I assume that is not correct. Hopefully someone can straighten me out on my understanding of all this. I should note in closing that my truck is a '51 B3C. Thanks for any further help any of you can provide. Barry

I am about to install the door seals from Roberts (one seal on the door and one on the cab). I also bought the adhesive Roberts sells, but since it appears to be so difficult and messy to use, I am looking for an alternative adhesive. What have some of you folks used and has it held up? Thanks for any help you can provide. Barry