rafriesen
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Everything posted by rafriesen
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The distributor requires 12 volts and since mine just would not start following a short cruse I went with the 12 volts. Used a wire loom from Speedway Motors and a distributor from Langdon's Stovebolt, Part # is SKU 38-7283 and it shows add. parts to make it easier on same page. The car and be cold and just hit the starter and it runs. I had tried everything else I could try to stay with 6 volt but finally gave up. s
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12 volts and electronic ignition and the old flathead runs great. It took forever but it was worth it.
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Hopefully I would call it fast. If not replace it with a Hemi.
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I am doing the same to my 47 Plymouth. My problem is why is their 2 wires hooked to the neg. side of my coil. It only checks at 1.3 ohms. Trying to find a wiring diagram with no success. Thanks -
The outlets on my master cyl. from Willwood were on the other side so I had no problems
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Heck I have a cheap old Homlite that I have been using for at least 25yrs. but I do have a Stihl as a backup but do not get the easystart.
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Yes it did.
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After pulling my stock master cyl. off I discovered the wonderful pivot system that they used and figured I would just build something. Then I discovered ECI and their brake system. I already had purchased a Willwood dual master cyl. so I just purchased the pivot system from ECI. It all installed with no difficulty. I ran all new brake lines with separate front and rear and it works great. That means no having to ditch it when a line breaks such as happened to me with my 63 Impala.
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Andover is just about 5 miles east of Wichita and almost a suburb. We just went by Joplin earlier this week on out way to Tablerock lake. Would have roasted to death in the Plymouth.
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I wish I would have taken more pictures of my rebuild. I still have to do the clutch which just started slipping and finish under the hood. That car sure gives a man a headache once in a while but it makes up for it while cruising. Thanks
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Here are a few pictures of my 47 Plymouth. It is the first Mopar that I have ever owned. The big problem with that is that I am 63 yrs old and born in 1947 so now you know why I bought it. The car is stock except for a brake upgrade with a dual master cylinder. That old 213 cruises right on down the street.
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The 56 is not finished yet. All the chassis work is done, 25-5 NHRA certification, rearend, brakes,tranny and turbo setup with headers is all finished. I have started on the engine and will have to do the fuel system and then have fun with 1300hp on only 10lbs of boost. Should be a great street ride I hope.
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Well I think the old Chevy man figured it out. Seafoam in the tank and get it started and spray some down the carb and walla it runs great again. Ten mile test run and it keeps on running. A Chevy man changing over I doubt if you look at my sig. Thanks for all the help.
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First of all I am a die hard Chevrolet man. I bought a 1947 Coupe with body and interior restoration done. Why did I buy it -- because the price was right. Did a brake job and then got it running. I ran great but failed on first test drive. Replaced fuel pump and it ran great again. Took it out for a 4 mile ride and it was running great. Set in the shop over night and when started the next day it was missing real bad. Compression on 2 - 6 was 75lbs. and compression on 1 was zero. Again I am new to this engine and need some advice as to where to start. Valves, lifters, adjustment or pulling head just need some Ideas.
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Will try and get some pictures tommorrow I hope. As far as a puller I broke two of them so I think I put plenty of energy into it. The back side of backing plates was caked with tons of old grease and dirt so it is apparent that it has been a long time since they have been off. On top of that the shoes were in backwards. Where is the best place to get cyl's and shoes at a decent price. PS: brakes are a real pain to work on.
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I was unable to get my rear drums off on my 47 business coupe. Broke pullers, used heat, air hammar and a 3lb sledge. It would not come off even with shoes backed off. I took 3 2 1/2 inch fine thread bolts left and right and ran them thru the lug holes and tightened the down and one wack with the sledge and off the came. The bolts hit a flat steel plate in the drum and did not damage anything. New idea or not it worked great.
