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Jerry, I've used 8V batteries on two occaisions and came away with a few opinions, which I shall modestly share now. 1. Don't tweak the VReg; it isn't necessary. 6V batteries get charged @ 7.2V and although I don't recall what the standing voltage in the battery was, it was more than 6V. The starter would spiin fast enough to almost whistle as it fired the engine in sub-zero Colorado winters (I use a block heater, but that doesn't do much for the initial spinning other than make the heater work. Once the cold oil hits the warm block things improve rapidly.). 2. Be prepared to buy a bunch of headlights, because they're burning brighter and hotter with less tensile strength. Expect to replace them twice a year, although none of the other lamps were affected. I didn't need to replace any fuses because the amps remained the same. 3. It's a toss-up which battery I'll use when I put mine back on the road, but I'll likely stick with 6V for no reason other than I drive a lot at night and love the extra brightness, but buying new bulbs that often is more expense than I want to make. I would not criticize anybody for running 8V because I did it for four or so years with great success, including not frying my points. I'd say go with 8V and come to your own conclusions; I never damaged anything doing it other than the headlights (carry a spare) and they are priced about the same as 6V. Get an Interstate for around $40 and if you like the way it works, when it wears out next year (jk) replace it with a quality job for twice the price that will live for many years. -Randy

greg g, Thanks for your timely response to my post about Bosch FI. The link you sent has answers to questions I hadn't formulated and as soon as the snow stops falling in Colorado (maybe by July?) I'll be able to get to it and have the confidence to get it done. Thanks again, Randy (BTW - I tried to send this PM but your mailbox is full; just a heads-up.)

He-he. I didn't spell it "SAAB". I'm a pupae-stage newbie to this stuff. -Randy

Gents, Working in up-scale restaurants I have had the opportunity to meet a number of famous folks, some of who have become friends. Last Saturday a famous writer (he shall remain un-named out of respect for his privacy) presented me with the title and keys to a 1984 Saab 900S and was told to get it running well and enjoy it. I know nothing about Saabs other than their fine reputation, and this one is in immaculate condition other than it runs like a POS. Idles very poorly and has a top end of around 60 mph, but the oil is clean, there's no smoke, and no weird noises so I feel the problem is most likely in the Bosch CIS mechanical injection system. Okay, I can recite fuel injection theory in my sleep but there are so many variations on the theme that it wouldn't hurt me to ask if anyone here knows everything there is to know about how this system works. I did the obvious minor tune-up stuff and replaced the O2 Sensor, and everything gets it running a little better. Because of my work schedule this week I haven't been able to get a manual for it, although I've found a few places on-line that are able to help some. What would make an otherwise decent engine act as though it's a 16 HP Briggs & Stratton? Any clues would be appreciated. Thanks, -Randy

Yup. All automotive paints have a code to describe the color, and with that code you can match anything you want. I don't have it at hand but it is there and if I find it first I'll post it. I also think you can search this site and find the answer because this question has been asked before. -Randy

Gents, I lived in Estes Park for over twenty years, and every year we'd open our doors to 5-6 million visitors in 100 days, and as much as we disliked loosing our quiet mountain town in the summer we found ways of easing the pain. The smell of burning brakes was and probably still is the foremost highlight of our lives when there are so many people in town that you give yourself half an hour to drive the three miles to work. Trail Ridge Road is, on the logical parts, a 30 mph road for a good reason; that's the fastest it should be driven, and the dozens of times I've circumsized Trail Ridge Road in my '48 P-15 I never once over-heated the brakes. It's a 2nd gear road and should be driven as such, and stop being such flat-land foriegners about the whole situation. Brakes are not a problem on Trail Ridge Road so stop sweating it and watch as you perceive your crossing of the tree-line and emerge onto the tundra, just to go down the other side and do it again in reverse. (I have been known to go off on a rant, haven't I?) A few years ago there was a discussion on pressurized radiator caps and I was soundly put in my place by one of our senior members about how zero pressure was what P-15's were designed around and that's how they should be run. I don't remember who chastized me for it and I certainly don't disrespect him for his statement, but he didn't live where water boils at 192 degrees. I've used 4# caps from NAPA for over ten years of driving without a problem, and I suggest that everyone driving to Estes do the same and then keep it on the radiator after they go home. You radiator won't develop any leaks it wasn't already developing. Whew, I gotta stop here and go back to the garage. -Randy

Gents, JohnnyS mentioned a possible road trip for we Coloradoans in the forum and it sounds like a winner to me, so let me modestly take it one step further; the Estes Park Antique Auto Club (of which I was one time a member) stages a bit of a rally every year around Memorial Day from Estes to Grand Lake. It's to celebrate the annual re-opening of Trail Ridge Road, and they're the first to drive it. If any of you haven't been on that road, it's the highest continuous paved road in the US, attaining an elevation of around 12,200' and the spectacular drive affords a view from withn the Rockies secound to none. (While I must admit that looking 3-4,000' down from a two lane road with no guard rail can be a bit unnerving the first time, if you don't regularly drive off the roads at home there's little cause for concern.) Many of us, myself included, don't have our rides road-worthy at this time, so if we were to plan on joining that rally we'd have a realistic time-frame around which to work and maybe that inspirational nudge to get ourselves away from our keyboards and out to our garages. I'll volunteer to do the logistics because I know most of the stuffy old farts who run the rally and still get along with them pretty well. There are at least a half-dozen of us living within sixty miles of each other and we should get together anyway. What say you, Gents? -Randy

James, I've been following this thread but felt the only thing I could offer would be negative so I've kept quiet. I have obviously abandoned that stance. The fluid coupler is a turbine with many small blades fit close together and set at very close proximity to a mirror image of itself. Add to that the third set of vanes around the perimiter bisecting the other two wheels and an age almost eligible for Social Security and my first best guess is to dismantle it and mic the bearings and visually check the vanes. Other than shock to the shafts and bearings it probably won't do to much other damage if it goes, like severing your feet, but you've got a good chance of screwing the pooch on your drive train if you let it go. The loss of noise is an indication that something has broken off and is circulating through the tubine at engine rpm. That's why I haven't written until now; I don't wish you anything other than the best but reality may be setting it. I hated to park my '48 P-15 for the last time when I did it for the last time, but I can see the light at the end of my tunnel. I hope your light glows soon. -Randy

My replacement came from Neil Riddle (206 285-6534) so long ago I don't recall what it cost, but I can assure you it was alot less than $100. -Randy

Mike, When I lived in Estes Park, where the air density is 30-35% less dense than sea level, I had to advance the snot out of my timing to get it to run well, At the elevation where we live now it's only 10-12% less than sea level and it isn't an issue that needs immediate attention. What you need to do (if the battery isn't fried) is reverse the polarity of the battery so that + is the ground. That was MOPAR's way of doing things back then and it isn't as bass-akward as it sounds; the logic (also used by the US Navy when I was in during the late 60's) is that ions are what flow in electricity and ions have a negative charge, ergo negative is the hot side. Just be glad you're working on an old car and not rewiring a WWII Diesel-Electric submarine. Swap the battery connections then, before you turn on the key, polarize the voltage regulator. "Remove the lead from the generator field terminal, then ground the generator field terminal and strike strike a jumper from the battery negative post to the armature terminal on the generator." That was almost verbatum from the factory manual, and what you're doing is building a residual magnetism so that all those pesky ions travel in the desired direction and should be done whenever you replace a part of the charging system. It will cause some sparks and only needs to be a momentary connection, but if all is right with the world it should solve the charging question. If it doesn't solve the problem you're up **** creek with at least one part but since this needs to be done with new stuff anyway you may as well try it with the old components first. There was a thread last year about painting a car with Rustoleum. I have a copy of it around somewhere on CD and will send it if you'd like, but basically you prep the car as though you were going to spray it and then roll-on eight coats, sanding between every second coat. I'm going to do that to my '48 P-15 this Spring and I'll keep everybody posted, but the neat part is that if it doesn't come out like I want I'm out less than $100. Ace Hardware can mix the paint to PPG formulae for about $25\gallon, and since I'll be rolling it on instead of spraying it I won't need to pay for a bunch of one-time impliments and the whole car should take less than two gallons. Just a thought. -Randy

Jim, I think a lot of us need a little inspiration this time of year and would benefit from reading the article, so rather than post it to each of us perhaps it could be posted somewhere here on the forum. Having never spoken with you in the past I feel a bit untoward asking you to do this, so I'll play my trump card: I was born in Quantico (guess what my Pop did for a living?). Also being a profesional writer doesn't count because my verbage in this Forum has often come across out of the context in which it was intended, but I'll throw that in as a little ballast for my request. Thanks, -Randy

I fitted a light for my P15. I didn't bother formulating any plans because it seemed obvious how it should go, but I located the light to the rear of the ornament so I wouldn't be distracted by the light. (My wife says I'm easily distracted by shiny objects.) I also installed an in-line fuse because something sharp always found it's way through the insulation of the wire, and after I paint the hood I'm planning on using silicone to glue the wire between the hood halves, maybe preventing water from collecting in the plug wells. All-in-all, it's just like Tim said so go for it. -Randy

I have two original radios I'm not going to use. I'm going to create a facia door from one of them, but the rest is up for grabs. How do I check the vibrator before I send it, hook it to a battery and listen for a hum? -Randy

... is located a block East of Taft (CR-17 for you flat-land foriegners) and 402, aka 14th SW. I live about a block away from this world-class deli and if you're going to meet in Loveland that's where you should be. Give me a call because I'd really enjoy meeting other members of this forum. -Randy (970) 593-1593

Mike, You've just gotten several lifetimes of advice and I agree with everything that has been written, especially the part about the meeces. Ugh! How they squeek and we eek and they charge and we jump on a stool in the kitchen and cling our skits above our knees. Nobody notices that we've wet ourselves, ever so lightly. I would suggest that when you lube it you don't just fill the zerks until the seals swell, but rather you keep pumping it through the fitting until fresh grease comes out. Thing is, the molecules of grease are composed of strings while most other petroleum products just kinda hang out, but after awhile those strings break down and lose their ability to function the way they where intended to protect your investment. I know that's the expensive and messy way to go but for me to admit that I'm wrong you're going to have to give a powerfull argument as to why grease that has been doing it's job for twenty years is at least as good as grease that's brand new. You only need to do this about once every five or ten years but you need to do it for the first time to get the ball rolling. It never hurts to jack the car enough to remove all tension from what you're trying to lube, and try not to get too pissed about the globs of grease on the floor because you forgot to lay down newspapers to catch them. Once you get everything inflated and lubed you'll be able to suffer the joy of diving a car that has an 18.5" diameter steering wheel for a good reason. Welcome to the club. May God have mercy on your soul. -Randy

Mike, Just a quick thought; Martin's Auto Salvage is in Windsor (970 686-2460) and has tons of old cars and trucks around. I've been dealing with them for years and they're decent folks with fair prices. -Randy

Gents, I've been following this thread with much amusement because due to my Pop's job I grew up in your area and have fished many of the lakes and streams you've mentioned. I also put myself through college in part by building campers, tricking vans, and even helping to create small camping trailers like the teardrop but with newer technology. Thing is, I earn some of my living writing novels (only one published so far and unless you've visited Estes Park, CO, you've never heard of it) and a current work in progress deals with the Imperial Valley and that it has the most toxically poluted groundwater in the Western Hemisphere. Under no circumstances should you ever eat anything that comes from the Salton Sea: Celenium is the biggie but it is also blessed with every form of agricultural, industrial, and human waste known to man and a few which may be morphing. The story of how it got that way is an hysterical example of black humor that would never be believed in one of my works of fiction, so if you question what I say check-out San Diego State University's New River project. They are the only people in the world who seem to give a rat's ass about the problem and are trying to do something about it. Whew! Sorry, but if you stray that far in your fishing travels and eat what you catch there it will kill you as fast as it's killing the migratory birds. Have a nice day, -Randy

Mike, I live in Loveland and have the factory manual, almost as many tools as I need, and 18 years under my belt rebuilding my '48 P-15 4-door. By the time you fix the brakes this weekend (and I heartily recommend that as your first step) I'll have the following Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday free and we could get together for a closer look. PM me if you're interested. -Randy

Hey, Tim, you're right, and I forgot to update since my last computer rebuild. I'll post a picture as soon as I get a pretty one... -Randy

The OD tranny I got from Riddle is longer than the std. tranny it replaced but the tailstock made up the difference. Also, I have a sliding spline on it that allows a lot of slack to the driveshaft. Having not seen anyone else's (in fear they'd want to see mine) I always figured this was SOP. Anyway, I can swap them back and forth with no changes to anything. Some of you needed driveshaft work? Maybe I was just lucky. -Randy

Gents, With the recent discussion of turn signals fresh in my mind I decided to yank my switch off the steering column and clean it so I could finally get around to wiring it in. Much to my dismay I found one of the holes (see arrow) to be stripped out. It's a #10 screw in pot metal so forget anything like a heli-coil. Not all of the threads are gone; just enough so the special shoulder bolt that fits it spins almost freely with my fingers. What I'm thinking would make a good fix would be to apply a little J-B Weld to the inside of the hole with a toothpick then "thread" the screw with my fingers and let it sit overnight. I'm going to need some type of release agent for the screw and thus my question; what would work well? I thought about a thim film of Vaseline (or K-Y if the petroleum might be a problem) or maybe a quick shot of WD-40, but what do you think? Thanks, -Randy

Nobody's ever needed to make his own part? I'm surprised.

I like to use original parts whenever possible, but occasionally I've needed to manufacture a part from scratch, the linkage from the throttle pedal through the firewall is an example. I've since found an original and was surprised that the one I made was only .25" off on the large bend, and it got me wondering how many others in this forum have done the same. Anyone got a story to tell or a pic to post? -Randy

Ladies & Gents, It is a beautiful piece of sculpture if you're into minimalist art, but Chuck Baris would have Frenched the lights and not used a grill that was so busy it drew the eye away from the sculpting. As a daily driver it's useless but there was a lot of TLC put into it; too bad the artist didn't understand the importance of retaining a theme. Aside from that it's gorgeous, just not as an automobile. Drape a WWII "Gam Gal" or two across strategic points, put a B-17 in the background, pump Big Band music from massive sub-woofers in the trunk and send it to the WWII re-enactor's meet at Oshkosh; those guys would appreciate the use of metalic baby-burp yellow. Gave it every positive nudge I could muster but, yeah, it sucks. -Randy

Tim, Although I have checked this forum every day for quite some time I don't recall a discussion about acid etching the body. Because I'm going to paint "Pigiron" this spring acid etching sounds like something I should look into. Where would I find any posts about it on this forum? Regarding your post about the taillight lenses, how did you treat them? As a personal aside, I want to thank you for the knowledge you have shared with the rest of us over the years. At one time I thought I knew a lot about my '48 SD, certainly more than any professionsal mechanic I'd met, but the most important thing I've learned is that I don't know squat. Thanks for that lesson; it'll make my ride run a little more smoothly. -Randy