BobT-47P15

Thanks for the hint DJ

How about asking Greg if he still has a copy??

Oh.....was the man in your convertible unlocking story blonde?

Tim---i noticed that slot but could see no springy retainers in parts book or for sale. Some for 50s Chevy might work. However I think there is a "collar" around where the lock cylinder goes thru the door. But not sure. Would have to pop my door panel to see. Any other P15 doors are in K. C. at son in law's house. Guess I'm in no rush...just really want them for looks. What you said about cutting the top is true.

In my two pictures posted above---the first one is the original length shock now in use. The second picture is showing the stock number of the shock that was too long. They were yellow when new---i painted them black. Moderator Edit: Use PM or classifieds for buy/sell offers.

No. The 555004 was the longer one i went to based on information from some one on here, but i dont recall who. Then i tried some other suggested number that was similar in length....also hit bottom. Returned to auto store. Then---somewhere in my information i keep, i found thr number of the shorter original size shock... Which i purchased....and it works fine. The only thing that strikes me is the original is stretched just a little past it's middle position. Am thinking a shock about one inch longer might sit at a more normal sort of position. I have not gone to the trouble yet of determining the model number of a slightly longer shock. Hopefully these comments make sense.

I have also read the binder twine story........makes a lot of sense for it's day.

As I recall (haven't thought much about it lately).....the door lock unit on a '47 Plymouth is held in place by a set screw with an allen head. And this screw usually is rusted and difficult to remove. So some have drilled the screw out. I tried that years ago and could not hold the drill straight -- thereby drilling thru the side of the channel -- and the screw is still mostly there. I think I removed the lock cylinders by using a large nail as a punch against the end of the shaft, and tapping them out from inside the door. Have had no locks -- only chrome "pop-in" covers in the holes for umpteen years. The chrome pop-in disc fills the lock hole pretty well and most people probably never really notice what it is............ So -- at Hershey last year, I found a pair of locks with "figure 8" covers.....with keys.....and am getting in the mood to install them. My question is -- I wonder if they will stay in place if put into the holes. And if loose, what will I need to hold them in place.

Definitely a 49 model. Looks fairly nice.

They appear fairly regularly on eBay. The prices have jumped way up there on the ones for sale today...... You need to watch them over a period of time for a better buy.......if you have time to do so.

Sounds just like my situation. I used some nice long, yellow shocks -- which promptly hit bottom. So I went back to my original length (shorter) shocks....they work fine. TOO LONG.....

Should probably be Ok if re-tightened good. I Have done that without any trouble.

"you probably in the very limited minority on that subject.".............Tim, I'm sure you are correct. Not everyone likes those old knick knacks as I do.

I had a whistle (given to me by my son in law one Christmas) before the big tornado. I still have some part of that whistle, but need to find it and see what I have. I think something is missing.

If the switch did not come in a box......how would you determine what the amp rating is? I didn't notice any numbers to speak of on my new switch. I somewhere saw these switches are sold by Cole Hersee also.

hts Thanks Ed. That's something I can check. Otherwise, it blinks the light just fine. But I still need to make the tail lights brighter to be better seen. Oh........I just remembered........I think I have a set of the 6 volt LED tail lights made by Technostalgia. At the time I called them, they had recently stopped making the 6 V model due to low sales.......so they made me up a set at that time. Guess I need to go out to the garage and rummage around for those lights since I'm currently in a mood to work with the car. I think they sent wiring instructions.

Sounds like the previous owner, for some reason, either did not know how to make the system work with stuff on the car......or he simply thought his separate system was easier. I once had a CB radio in a 47 Plymouth coupe that was still 6 volt.....the radio was 12 volt, so I put a 12 volt battery in the trunk and wired the radio to it direct. Worked just fine. Simply had to re-charge the battery from time to time. On my car.....I have double filament 6 v bulbs in the tail lights for flashers.......but on the front I unhooked my parking lights from the system, and now just use them as turn signals only needing a single filament bulb. You really don't use your parking lights much - at least I don't. Also on mine -- for some reason that little indicator light on the turn signal unit does not seem to blink when signal is engaged for a turn. So I made a holder and used two small red lights mounted under the dash as an indicator. They hook in at/near the flasher.

I bought mine on eBay probably 4 or 5 years ago.....had them sitting around for a while. And, they appear to need to be spaced out from the frame a bit to line up. My original style shocks are Monroe Sensatrac 5752, purchased at either o'Reilly or NAPA---not sure which place -- it's been a while. They went on OK, but it seems to me they should be about one inch longer.

Harvey..........good to hear from you, even with a problem. Looks like you now have the solution. Hope you and yours are doing well.........keep on driving the old Mopar..... Bob

Well............this has been an interesting conversation. I didn't realize the negative things about Steele. Usually I see good words about how their products are the best.......vs perhaps some item from A.B. that is too skimpy to fit. I did purchase Steele's windshield gasket, along with having new glass cut, which my son in law installed. He ultimately broke both halves of the windshield, which he had re-made.....and finally got someone to assist him to get it in place. Now it seems fine. I purchased the non tinted glass as the original glass was just plain. You can get about whatever color tint you want from a glass shop. I still have the original two pieces ............ so if anyone needs a pattern for a convertible windshield, I can trace one off and send it to you. I also still have my old original rear wooden top bow, even though broken in one place. If needed, I can send pictures and measurements. I haven't made very many posts over the last 3 or 4 years about the car since it was not here. Now, finally, I'm getting back into the mood of messing with it. I call it "messing with" because most of what I do is not heavy duty mechanical or body work......just dealing with small issues like replacing my siren; cleaning up and repainting in the area between the grille and radiator.......and other assorted small matters. Thanks for the input gentlemen.

Oh.....Uh.....doesn't everyone have a siren on their old car??? Or perhaps an "Oogah" horn??? Bought a 6 volt siren a few years back at a swap meet.........have had a lot of fun with it, especially when driving in the Christmas parade. I also have an old "oogah" horn that I took apart a few months ago and cleaned things up.....now it makes the proper sound and generally works better. My siren seems to have conked out and now fails to wail. So when at the Wichita swap meet earlier this year, I ran onto another siren just like my old one. Therefore, am getting ready to replace the first siren with a seemingly better one. Guess I won't mention my third extra horn......I just call it a "beep, beep" horn.......from some older model car.: After I get all these knick knacks working, I need to fix the regular P15 trumpet horns. They need a new wire that runs down through the steering column. Tonight, I removed the trumpet horns to allow access to that darn siren which has a couple nuts and bolts to get to. Will do some cleaning and painting in the frontal area before re-assembly.

Hi Andy. Hope you are doing well. It's too bad that companies sometimes take the attitude you described. I guess they don't care if they not only lose your future business, plus they will get some bad publicity when anyone asks you about their type of product.

Now, my cowl vent is cooler than your cowl vent.........because I have pictures of two pin-up girls inside it. When he was working on the car, my son in law thought it was really cute putting those photos in there. They are like WWII girls. So I am leaving them to see if anyone notices......

Last Fall at Hershey I bought a rubber cowl vent gasket direct from Steele Rubber Company at their trailer/vendor booth. Price was $43. So, now, about a year later I decided to install it. So, I had to remove the vent itself which involves some ever popular standing on your head, working under the dash. To make it as easy as possible, I removed the bottom seat cushion. You would think that for the price, that gasket would be a perfect fit. But, not so. At least not this one. I had to cut it and remove about 1/4 inch of rubber because it was too long. Did that on the back side. Then used some 3M trim cement to hold that gasket in place.

Yeah....this older fellow who owns a 1952 Olds bought an engine and transmission for it---you can tell it's a late model motor from some un=named car. In order to get the motor and trans, which are bolted together, home--- they have to use the strength of several men to hike the engine into a horse-drawn wagon for a trip across town. Then they have to work to strengthen the door frame of the building where the car is located so they can use it as a hoist to get the engine into the car. They did not have such a thing as a cherry picker (hoist). I thought it was an interesting insight into how it's been all these past years in Cuba. We know they have kept all those old 50s cars running.......now we can see what it took.