Norm's Coupe

Don, Sounds like you need to hit the bookstore. There you will find a book titled "Football For Dummy's":D. Will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about football. Will also answer the questions you mentioned. You could probably buy it online too.

Don, Looking at that again, you may be right. I painted my oil filter housing and air cleaner with Chrome paint when I rebuilt my engine. Looked great back then, but over the years it did dull out a little. Arthur's hasn't been used yet in that picture. So........if it is just paint, it won't stay looking that nice after running the car.

$50 for a used transmission is not bad, but you still may need to rebuild it after getting it. Most gas tanks rust out from the inside out. So.....you really can't see inside that old 60 year old tank, to see just how much rust is in there. If the tank had some sort of coating inside, I wouldn't buy it at all, even if it was just cleaned and sealed. So.....I wouldn't give more than "maybe" $10 for it. Anything more than that, I'd rather buy a new one. But.........in your case you say I don't "really" need either. Whenever I'm buying used parts to have spares, I will not spend a lot of money for them. After all, it's not an emergency, so I have the upper hand as far as price goes. I can take it or leave it, so I'd probably only give $25 for the tranny and $10 bucks for the tank. If he didn't like those prices, I'd simply walk away without either. The worse that can happen is my tranny goes bad. But........it can be fixed. Same with the tank. I can always buy a new gas tank. So.........it has to be worth my while to buy a part I don't need today.

My guess is that Arthur either had his oil filter housing chromed, bought it from someone that had it done, or it was on the car when he bought it. There were no oil filter housings that came with a chrome finish, that you could buy from the store. I have seen people selling chromed ones, both on ebay and swap meets. But again, they didn't come that way, someone had them plated after buying them.

Sorry to hear about your family being in the accident. At least they were all OK except for minor scratches and bruises. Being in sales and on the road constantly for about 25 years from the 60's to the early 90's, I've had all kinds of things fly off trucks at me. In the St. Paul, MN area I had lumber flying at me off a pickup traveling on the freeway. Once on the freeway in Chicago I had a large piece of flat steel fly off a flatbed truck during rush hour going about 60 MPH. Had to hug the center concrete barrier to keep it from flying right through the windshield. That did damage the side of my car, which the trucking company paid for later. He didn't know it happened I guess, but I got the name and phone number off the truck door afterward, when I caught back up to him. I've also had concrete and rocks fly off trucks on the freeway at me on the freeways. Even had ready mixed cement fly off the ready mix truck. That did come off the car, but was a mess. Then there was the roofers truck on the freeway here in Milwaukee that had several boxes of roofing nails fall off their truck spilling all across the freeway lanes. Had no choice but to go through them and hope for the best. Luckily I was several cars behind it, so I only picked up one nail. About the biggest mess I ever had fly at me though was on a rural road here in Wisconsin. Got behind a truck carrying green beans with no cover on it, going about 50 MPH on a two lane road, so I couldn't go around. Ever had green beans splatter all over your car and windshield. That's really a mess to clean up. Those are just the ones I remember off the top of my head. There were a lot more.

Although it usually doesn't matter how many volts the switch is handling, most switches are rated for amperage. Too many amps and it'll burn the switch out. Just like any other switch. Take a look at the packages in the store for both toggle switches, light switches, etc. Each one has an amperage rating for them that you should not exceed.

You can see pictures of mine on my website. Click on the link in my signature.

There should be a parts number on there somewhere. Might help to find that and post it.

I don't know.........but I don't think I'd send them my gauge since I did not buy that from them. Sounds like they want to test the gauge to see if it's OK. But..........you've already done that. They should have their own gauge to test the sender with. I'd also be worried about the gauge getting lost or damaged in all that shipping back and forth. Since you already have both out, you can test both on the bench with a 6 volt battery and jumper wires. Hook up the sender to the gauge with jumper wires. Then add another jumper as a ground from the sender to the gauge. Then move the arm of the sender slowly up and down to see if it works. If the gauge does not work then, it's probably the sender. If it does work, you had a bad wire or ground when they were in the car. Keep the gauge sitting upright as it would in the car when testing. About the only thing that can go wrong with gauge is the points get worn or dirty. It's unlikely the spring is bad. So.......prior to making your test, run some paper between the points to clean them off.

The question I have is. Why is your friend replacing those batteries? If they are old and not that good, then you'll start having problems with them. Might be better off just buying a new battery, or batteries for what you want to do.

Ed, Unless you have your head in the sand, I'm sure you already know the answer to that.:D But........it was only by 7 points, and was a tight game for both sides, right up to the end. The Pack almost pulled it out in the last seconds of the game. That said. When it comes to comparing the stats between Rodgers and Farve for the game, they were almost even. Actually, the stats for Rodgers was better than Farve's for the game (that statement came from the commentators). The problem was/is the Packers Offensive line is not doing it's job to protect Rodgers. He's been sacked 20 times in the last 4 games due to their not protecting him like they should so he can get rid of the ball. Even when not sacked he is constantly having to move out of the pocket to pass, due to the poor performance of the linemen protecting him. Even the commentators for the game were talking about that. Yet, he did have slightly better stats than Farve in this game and Farve was well protected during the game by is offensive linemen. Now, our defensive team did shut down your star player Peterson. He had one of his worse nights for yardage last night. Don't think he even came close to 100 yards when he had the ball. The Packers even took the ball out of Peterson's hands and ran it back for a touchdown in one play. That took your running game away from you, and forced more of an air game for the Vikings. So, our defensive team did a pretty good job that way. Farve got nowhere when he tried to give the ball to Peterson, and neither did Peterson. Actually, we can blame Fred Thompson for dropping the ball on better protection for Rodgers. He's the one who didn't get the right mix when he hired the players. That said, it's also the reason him and Farve didn't get along. Even Farve couldn't do anything the last few years with the Packers because he was always getting sacked too. When Farve started complaining about it is when all the rift between him and Thompson started. Farve kept after them to get him better protection, but.....that did not come about. You probably know the rest of the story on that subject. But.......this was only one game. The Vikings will be in Green Bay on November 1st. So........we'll get our win then.

Don, I don't think the problem is the flasher. It has been in there ever since I added the led brake lights. That was several years ago and I never had a problem with them or the brake light. I think it's either that led light I added in the radio head or the flasher being hooked up to the primary side on the ignition switch. I moved that connection the same time we added the led light in the radio head for the flasher around August or September of last year. Thinking back, that's when I started having dead or low battery issues. Prior to that, I had the flasher hooked up to the accessory side of the ignition switch, and didn't have any problems. I think by disconnecting the flasher at the switch, then testing, that should tell me if that is the cause. The signals and brake light do work OK when the battery is up. Sort of reminds me of when I first replaced the switch on the signals with no led lights hooked up to it. The car had signals when I bought it, but......the switch was broken. Put on a new switch and took a test drive. Every time I'd turn on a signal, let off the gas to go around a corner, the engine would die. Then if I did not turn off the signal before trying to start the car, you could not start the car. Turn off the signal and it would start right up. When I found that problem it turned out the previous owner had hooked the hot wire for the signals directly to the wrong side of the coil. So........the every time you hit the signal switch, it acted like a cutoff switch. Then removed that wire and moved it to the accessory side of the ignition switch, then had no more problems, until now with it back on the hot side of the switch. At any rate, I won't have time today to do anything with it. Will have to wait until tomorrow sometime. Even if that's not it, it's no big thing. I'll just get the battery back up and leave it disconnected, and reconnect it when I want to start the car to move it. At least I'll still be able to move the car that way if I need to, until I find the problem.

Mine with the dual heaters were not covered. They were just the bumpy board type as BobT mentioned. They color was gray to match the door panels. Like Joe, I still had them, but made new ones, using the old ones as a pattern, to get rid of the smell. I did cover the new panels pleated covering to match the new door panels and seat covers when I made them.

Tim, I still think the problem may be that turn signal connection. Going to check that first for the reason mentioned before. As for checking the voltage regulator, I can put the analyzer on it to check it out. There is a drain somewhere. Had a fluctuating ohm reading of between 29 and 59 ohms with the battery disconnected.

I agree with Ed. That looks like a GM or even a Nash in the background based on the way the fender goes into the door. That said. Ed, don't know about you but it's time for me to cut out of here at least for a few hours. Packers and Vikings game is just coming on TV. You'll have to watch too. Don't want to miss Rodgers beating Farve.:D:cool:

Tim, Forgot to mention. No, didn't check the voltage regulator. Looking at the amp meter when the battery was good and car running it seems to be working like it should.

Tim, Funny you should mention the overhead dome light. A few years ago that did run down the battery. But........that turned out to be because it must have stayed on when I thought it was off. Ran down the battery and burned out the bulb. I never replaced the bulb after that. Figured I didn't need it anyway since I have the under dash light, plus I rarely drive the car at night anyway. The more I think about it, the more I think it's the turn signals that are the culprit. After all, that's what I last worked on that was electrical. When I moved that connection to the ignition post of the starter switch is also when I added an led light inside the dummy radio head to act as a dash signal indicator. That's why I said, that was going to be the first thing I check. Everything worked fine before that. Of course, something else could go wrong. But.....I'm a firm believer that when a problem comes up, always look at what you last did to start out. But.....thanks for the suggestion. That's why I started this thread. I know you guys can't tell me where the problem is. But.......never hurts to get suggestions.

About the only place you can get a vintage plate is from a vendor at a swap meet, or someplace like ebay, and then you may have to restore it, or have someone do it for you.

David is correct. The correct term is "Kick Panels". Like Young Ed said. If you have the dual heaters with the vents, you need kick panels cut a little larger for that since they bend around the fresh air vent. You may have to make those yourself, or have someone do it. Don't believe I've seen any for sale already made. Some things on all old cars we must make our self, or do without. This may be one of them. I made my own for the dual heaters and they are not hard to make.

Guys, there was just another thread the other day in the Parts Wanted section that someone was looking for wheels. Thomas Russom said he had some. You might contact him. His email is tmrussom@yahoo.com If that doesn't work, send him a message from his profile.

Just checked the hot side with the ohm meter. Just as I thought, I got a reading, so it's something in the wiring that's draining the battery. Didn't bother to hook up the charger. It's a new battery and may build itself back up since it's now disconnected. If not, I'll charge it back up when I find the problem. Won't have time to do any checking until Wednesday now. Think I may know where the problem is though, so I'll check that first. Last year about this time, I moved the connection for the turn signals to the ignition side of the ignition switch, so they would work with the key off. Seems like ever since then I've noticed the amp meter almost pegging out when I'd start the car. That's when I really started having problems with dead batteries. Of course, during the winter I kept the trickle charger on it, so it never ran down. I'll disconnect it first Wednesday, then check with the ohm meter. Might be just a simple matter of moving that connection back to the accessory side of the switch. Hey, I can hope can't I. Like I said, thinking back that's when the battery issues started.

I believe the JC Whitney unit is a one wire setup. Are you sure you have a good ground on your gauge and sender. If not, it won't work properly, or not work at all. Try running another good ground to the sender from the frame or bumper. If it works, run a permanent ground wire to the frame. If that doesn't work, check the connection at the gauge. Make sure it's good and tight and has a star washer on it to supply a good clean ground. If it still doesn't work right run new wires from the sender to the gauge outside the car temporarily. If the gauge works then, your old wires are probably shot. So, move the new wires inside the car and make them permanent.

Don't think it would be the starter solenoid. If that was it, I'd still have lights. I have absolutely no power anywhere. Even the courtesy light under the dash is out now. Wish it was that simple. I have two new solenoids in the box and even a new voltage regulator in the box. If it was either of those two, would be a quick easy fix. Tracking a bad circuit is like fishing. Don't like doing either one. Going back out shortly and remove the battery to charge it back up. Will check the hot cable with the ohm meter then. Fred, Putting a disconnect on the battery to keep it from being drained won't fix the problem, that only hides it, so that's out. Have to find and fix the problem. Otherwise if you are out somewhere, turn the key off and stay there for several hours, you may not start when ready to leave. That's not good. Nothing should be draining my battery like a clock. Don't have a clock or radio in the car to cause that.

Guess it's my turn to go fishing now. About 3 weeks weeks ago my battery was deader than a doornail. Didn't even get a click when I turned on the key. Charged up the battery and all was fine again. The amp meter did do a little jumping when I first got it started then, but it finally settled down. So attributed that to the possibility I didn't get the battery fully charged prior to starting. Only had the charger on it for about 3 hours. Took a ride and the car ran great. Last Wednesday when I tried starting it again, it was again deader than a doornail. So........assuming I just blew another battery somehow by not driving the car a lot, I bought a new battery last Thursday. Put it in Friday. Car started right up as always. Not even a complete turnover before it started. Didn't go anywhere though as I didn't have time, so only ran the car for about 3 to 5 minutes and shut her down. Haven't touched it since until about 15 minutes ago. Got in and the new battery is now deader than a doornail. Guess it's time to go fishing now. Sounds like I may have something draining the battery. Would think it has to be in some wire between the battery and ignition switch though. When I did run the car after putting the new battery in, the amp meter was right where it was supposed to be, so I would think I can rule out the starter solenoid and the voltage regulator and even the generator.

I've always been afraid to use paint on seats and fabric myself. Vinyl paint may be OK if painting the whole piece like a dash, etc. If you want seat covers instead, that will cost you a lot more. But........places like AutoCraft have all the original seat patterns to make nice covers, that fit nice and snug. Although they do have various types of cloth material, they don't make covers that are the original pattern. They also have the vinyl leatherette seat covers. Even those old type clear vinyl seat covers to fit our cars. You can order sample swatches from JC Whitney or other distributors to determine the material, color, etc. of the covers, prior to ordering. The samples use to be free at JC Whitney. Check out their catalog for prices, etc. My whole interior came from AutoCraft. I did have to make my own door panels though, using matching material purchased by the yard.