Rich Gengo

I put the Fatman set up on my 51 and it rides great. I went with the p/s also. It does drop the front end quite a bit so be prepared to lower the rear also.

I'm confused, what doesn't come apart? I redid my visors on my 51. The arm should pull off the visor if thats what your talking about.

Do a volt drop test on the cables and starter. They might look good on the outside but not on the inside or not making a good contact. Did you replace the cables with something to small? Size does mater in this case. : )

I put a wiper motor in from Newport Enginering. Bolts right in

Most brake systems use 3/16 lines. I know the older vec. use 1/4. You shoud be using some sort of metering valve if you have disc in the front and drums in the rear. You can try calling Master Power Brakes or The Right Stuff for any parts or fittings you might need to hook this up.

The difference is that there is a slight angle on them so they are a bit different on the top and bottom.

Hi everyone. It's been a while since I've been here but wanted to tell you guys that my 51 pilothouse got picked for the Top Eliminator Award by Mopar and is going to be shown at the S.E.M.A. show in Vegas. You can see the pictures they took at facebook/mopar.com . I'm still in shock!

Hey,that my truck! Thanks for posting the pics. It was nice talking with you and seeing the pics of your trucks. Truck has been done now for about 4 yrs now and it won best of show truck in the Mopar Nationals in Ohio 2 yrs. ago. I guess it also helps to be the only one out there. Where are all you guys hiding? I'm from NJ and I never see any other Pilot-houses around. Would be nice to get a bunch of trucks together and see each others vision of what they want their truck to be. It' funny, I cant tell you how many people tell me they never thought these trucks could look good.

I went from the inside and pulled the rubber out. This will probably be the worst job on the truck to do! Nothing short of hateful. I really think the key is the quality of the rubber seal. If it's soft and pliable it will pop in like the front. But I have never found one and I used two. Good luck

Thats why the Goodguys events are getting big. There entry is 72 and older, any condition. I take my 51 there all the time. They run a nice event.

I saw a very nice panel truck today for sale but it had a few things done to it that dont look right to me but then again I never saw one in person before. It is nice and straight with good paint on it but the front cab mounts are rotted by the floor in the corners. Looks like someone did a nice paint job but did nothing underneath. This is what I saw. The header panel appears to be filled with a seam sealer to the fenders. No rivets on the outside of the front fenders where the supports are. Rear fenders are part of the body. Not bolted on ??? And the running boards were also molded to the panel body. Inside looked nice with a wood floor. Doesn't look like any work was done inside. Looks original. Guy says it runs good. What do you think it is worth?

Nice job and good luck!

I bought the fiberglass boards for my truck and was shocked to see there was no way to mount them but they did look like the original boards. What I did was cut 3 pieces of 1" square tubing and glued them the length of the boards. I then put them where the belong on the brackets and the drilled and tapped them and bolted them on. I rhino lined the bed rails and the inside of the bed and had the running boards rhinoed also. Really looks good and never have to worry about them every getting scratched and they look like steel and I can also stand on them if I had to.

Very nice. That's one more Pilothouse on the road and away from the crusher!

Any glass shop who does auto glass should have the tape in stock. It's just a piece of rubber about an inch or so wide that wraps around the glass when you push it into the track. Spray some glass cleaner on it for lube when you install it. Not WD40

Just a note on residule valves. 2 psi is for disc. and 10 psi is for drums in the hot rod world. On normal brakes usually if you have a better pedal on the second pump it's usually a wheel out of adjustment from the others

Try Autobody Specialtys or Bruce Horkey for the tailgate

I did that to my truck also when I was building it. Sure was easier on paper!

I'm heading up to the Carlisle show this weekend with the 51. Probably be on the hill again if anybody else is going stop by.

Looks good. That's a s- load of springs in the rear.

www.newportwipers.com have an electric motor that bolts right in using the original linkage arms. I put in in my truck and the only problem I had is every time I go somewhere far it rains!

Yes. I don't know what ends you have so if there not the same you can use your old ones

3/16 and 1/4 are the sizes for most everything.Sometimes you have to use the old fittings if it has a special end on it.

Get a buddy and a six pack of beer.Get a new rubber and lube it up. Stick it in the window frame.Get a string and wrap it all around the inside lip leaving a little hanging out. Hold the window to the rubber from the outside and start pulling the string out while pushing the widow in so the window goes in and the rubber lip goes out and it should pop in. Easier said then done depending on the rubber seal but that is basically how it is done. A little push,bang and a few curse words latter you can sit and enjoy the beer!

I was told by the Bendix tech. rep. that the cylinders are manufactured and assembled using Dot3 so contamination is always there. You can flush the system with brakleen and you might get it all out. I used Dot5 in my T bucket and my Cuda when I built them. I had to rebuild all the rubber components on the T bucket and didn't have a problem with the Cuda but I did flush the system and went back to Dot3. Didn't want to take any chances. I guess its a crap shoot- dammed if you do and dammed if you don't