Thunder II

Thanks Ian..... Interesting story though.

Sorry guys. This is unrelated to our beloved Pilothouse trucks, but with such a large group of our Ausie Brothers here, I thought that I would ask here. On one of my other forums, Oldgas.com, somebody was asking about a streamlined tanker from Australia. Can somebody here, shed some light on this for us? http://www.oldgas.com/shoptalk/ubb/Forum1/HTML/010759.html Thanks....

Uuuhhhmmmmm........ AIR Horns?

I grew up in La Habra Calif, where his shop is. Orange County had a LOT of cool stuff like that. Irregardless of how one feels about Boyd, he is/was a driving force in the custom car industry. I for one, will miss him.

Welcome aboard 51 Fargo.

Just a thought... Why not have three matching runners, that go forward?

Check the link that I gave. It has all the details....

If you check the link to cleaning a trailer frame, they acually built a tub of sheet plastic, dipped it, then cleaned it off, so, it is possible. Media blasting is good, but this system is cheap and easy, and It can be done at home by anybody. If you add up, transportaition cost, time, and labor expense, it might be better to dip it. I haven't tried it, so I dont know.

Check this link..... http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp Some of the guys on Oldgas ( I collect old gas pumps) have used this with a lot of success. Be sure to use a battery charger with a manual setting, not a timer....

The question is, what do YOU want from your truck? There are some hardcore purists here, that are meticulous about nuts/bolt/washers on their trucks. Color codes, and other, highly technical questions often arise here, again, from and for the purists. As for me, I want to DRIVE my truck. In comfort and style. However, my style may not fit the likes of anybody else here. So the question, which only you can answer is, what do you want from your truck?

With all the years, and all the gears, (Hey! That rhymes) there will ba a BIT of slop in there. ALL of my trucks, have a bit of slop in the driveline. If you're hearing noises, something isnt right. Older vehicle, will make a bit more noise. Straight cut gears, as compared to the "slanted" cut gears. But a "noise"? There is probably a problem in there. But even with all of the good people here, and their expertise.... Pause for affect. This is kinda' like doing, mail order brain surgery. you might need to take it to a driveline shop, and get their opinion. I hope that the diff, is full of oil, and that the spider gears aren't shot. As my truck is a B-2G, I'm not familiar with the smaller trucks. Can you pull the diff cover, and take a look inside?

That truck is too stock to be a custom, and too custom to be stock. Dont worry Chucky, you're doing great. I just cant wait to see it when you're drivin' it...

Grab the driveshaft, and turn it back & forth. See if there is any slop at the u-joints. Then, push & pull, up & down and back & forth at the u-joints, and check for slop. Do the same checks, at the support bearing, if you have one.

Kenwort part #75001657. Its a six foot piece. Like I said, not original, but its available. And you dont have to pay shipping, if you're near a Kenworth dealer. Hope this helps.

Its notao original DODGE part but, Kenworth has replacement window tracks that may work. I havent tried them yet, as i am not at that point in my resto. I dont remember the part number. But If you get a guy, thats half way sharp, he'll know what you're looking for.

THAT is 2KEWL!!! I'm in the trash business too. I was thinking of making my B2G into a roll-off truck.

Silver solder requires a higher heat, but produces a stronger bond. And it can be done with an ordinary propane torch. even an ordinary plumbing type solder should be sufficient. Just be sure to clean off ALL of the contaminates (sp?) use flux, and be careful not to contaminate the bond when re-soldering the bracket. By reading all of your posts, I'm confident that you can handle this. Now quit tearing that darn truck aprt, start putting it back together, and take it out for a drive!!!! Good luck. Keep us posted.

If I remember correctly, the wheel base is changed, by cutting the welds in the splice/slip joint area. Then sliding either pushing or pulling the frame to the correct wheelbase, and rewelding. Of course, you would want to check all your measurements, before and after, to be sure that the frame is square. After that, its just a matter of changing the driveline length, and any hoses, wiring, and/or lines

Typicly, old model Ts, chopped, channeled, lowered, big engines, lake pipes, anything that could be drug out of the junkyards, and bolted together, at little or no cost. Not really dragsters, but all about speed. This one isnt mine, but I wish it was....

It looks GOOD down on the weeds like that. And ya' gotta' love the cross ram.....

I've heard that you can powder coat over JB Weld. It holds up to the heat process, where Bondo wont. I've never tried it though, so ask your Powder people.

All you need is a huge oven.LOL!!!

Engine mods, such as a cam re-grind, and raising the compression, are really, no big deal. But, a stainless steel fuel line requirement, would make me question the fuel tank capability and/or life expectancy (sp?). so, hows about a plastic tank, electric fuel pump, and copper lines????? Easy enough so far. But what about the carb? Maybe I should read the links before I start asking dumb questions...

I like your creativity AND your offer. Lucky for me, I dont need them though.

I as hoping somebody would bring this pic up...... Pic up, hey, thats funny.... I'm planning on the two tone brown for my B-2G. Someday, not soon, but someday.....