Don Coatney

Loaded or unloaded the brakes should work the same. Ever see an advertisement or warning that the brakes do not work correctly unless the truck is loaded. Of all the Pilothouse era truck owners on this forum none have ever reported that the truck must be loaded for the brakes to work correctly. Once again I suggest you inspect all 4 wheels looking for contamination or incorrect adjustment.  

Also check your driveshaft universal joints. It is difficult to pin point sounds from the drivers seat.

Open the resources link at the top of this page and read everything found it there. Search the internet for a P-15 service manual and buy one.

Bill, Thanks for your response. I find it much easier to resolve questions forum members have if all the eggs are in one basket so to speak. Much easier to read responses in one thread than to duplicate answers posted in another thread about the same issue. The most important responses are if it aint broke don't fix it.

Do a forum search for Sisson choke

As had been said many times 90% of electrical problems are carburetor related. Increase your idle speed and see if that helps.

Two different things. Manifold vacuum, and ported vacuum.
 
Manifold vacuum reads high at idle and goes way down when the throttle opens. Manifold vacuum is where you should connect the vacuum gauge.
 
Ported vacuum goes high when the throttle opens and that is where your vacuum advance line connects.
 
This picture shows the ported vacuum line connected to the base of the carburetor and the manifold vacuum line connected to the SS plate where the original carburetor was mounted. This manifold connection will be different on a stock engine.
 

Here are a couple of quotes about thermostats from my old friend and forum member Grey Beard. This is worth the long read.
 
 
 
 

yes

I read you are disassembling the engine for rebuild. Were it me I would finish the disassembly and then deal with this fitting once all the attached stuff (distributor, starter, coil and wire loom, etc.) have been removed.
 
How did this fitting get stripped? In the future I suggest you never use a wrench to tighten anything until you are 100% positive that the threaded piece is started by hand correctly and not cross threaded. I also suggest you invest in a set of tubing wrenches as pictured below. Use of the right tool for the job makes life easier.
 
Also the female threads in the brass fitting are not tapered pipe threads. Use of a pipe tap in the brass piece will do more damage. The internal threads in the block where the brass piece screws in are tapered pipe threads. However I have doubts those threads are damaged as brass is softer than the engine block casting.
 

Yes. The oil pan must be removed as well as the crossover oil supply line from the oil pump. The plug is installed inside the block where the crossover line connects on the starter side of the block. The block should be already threaded internally to accept this plug.
 

Your choice ICEDUDE

Should be installed as pictured. The water follows the path of the pipe cleaner.
 

When you rebuilt the horn was there an adjusting screw near the coil?
 
I hope you get it fixed as there is nothing better than tooting your own horn

The toggle switch you pictured is an add on most likely installed by a prior owner to power up some accessory. The toggle switch pictured below is what controlls the dash lights. Could be a 2 or 3 position switch (dim, dimmer, and off)
 
It is not a good practice to use solid copper wire in a car. Should be stranded wire. Suggest you remove those wires as they are not currently in use.
 

Looks like a shock absorber mount????