48jumpdoors

thank you sir for the info!

good morning folks, I am currently in the process of pulling the MC to rebuild it. I have the floorboards pulled and everything is disconnected except the turnbuckle/adjustment rod from the clutch pedal but I can tell there is tension on it from a large spring that is attached down low on the clutch linkage. Does the spring have to be disconnected prior to disconnecting the turnbuckle rod? and if so how do you go about doing that? I can see that if you loosened up the turn buckle adjustment rod you lessen the tension? Thanks anyone for wisdom! Clay W.

thats what Im working on is a 48 four door, another question, what size tires are you running? I would like to run 6.00x16's with this lowered stance to help a little with gearing.

every time I see an old solenoid at a swap meet or garage sale I pick it up just in case. I'm not sure how to distinguish 6 from 12 volt solenoids but Im sure there is a way other than markings

Man!! I was getting so frustrated just reading your post that I was getting ready to go out in the shop and beat on my own car! I'm glad you figured it out.

I have done a lot of the same repairs that you have here in the thread. You remind me of my Dad he had the same personality and his car was a 48 Plym coupe that he used to street race in the early sixties around South Park area, he ran a flat six with dual carbs, Fenton exhaust, shaved head, cam etc etc.. I'll be keeping track of what your doing as its right up my alley and skill level, thanks so much for sharing.

hopefully they are wool sox with all that snow your going to need them!

you gotta be on the coast! Im in the Okanogan where we have BOB (Big Orange Ball) sunshine!! Dad moved us here in the 70's from south Seattle thank goodness. Love your progress, Im working on a 48 Plymouth 4 DR. that's been sitting for 20 years on the ranch.

I was going to say, that I ordered my kit then removed the pump "in that order" and found that the kit does not fit my pump. So I bought a new pump.

thanks for the update, I have a set of Aerostar springs that I have been told may fit but I will have to look at them.

so did you have any issues with handling or weird tire ware after you cut the springs?

Thank you for the info, I will take a look at it, I was thinking of cutting a coil from the top, glad I asked.

so can someone clarify the cutting of one coil? I envision cutting just below the upper end of the coil spring? Thanks in advance!

Hello, I see that your car had one coil cut from the front springs, I am contemplating lowering doing my 48 4 Door. I was curious if having the springs cut had any negative steering geometry issues such as uneven tire wear etc... thanks in advance

Hello Im following your progress on the Plymouth, sorry to hear about your bike wreck. I ride as well and am always looking for the driver that isnt!! My question is I see that you are going to use Moog Aerostar coils for the front? to lower it? I was wondering where you found this info so I could do some research. I have a 48 four door that I am currently working on and want to lower it some. Thanks in advance and get healed up.

Hey no worries, Im still working on brakes on the 48, Im going to run the crap out of the stock motor and get some miles in before I pull it and up the compression and do a cam swap. I have a set of Fentons for it as well. I need to check this forum and see if there is a way to lower the front end and still retain the stock geometry. Thanks for the information.

thank you for the tip, I will make sure that it is clear/open Clay W.

sounds good, the plug is currently being a witch to get off Im letting it soak in PB overnight and then give it a try. I may have to hit it with some heat. Thanks for the info. Clay W.

those guys in the coupe from the ESD look like they are having a junk on the bunk (JOB) inspection!! Thanks for the pics

I am actually not replacing the master cylinder but am rebuilding it, I saw in my manual that the MC can be rebuilt while still in the car, does anyone have any experience in doing this? and possibly some tips on how to go about it?

hey there, I am pulling the master cylinder out of my 48 P15 as well, I have the floor board out and I saw in your comment that you can then take out the MC and pedals as an assembly. Where are you disconnecting the clutch pedal from? its adjustment/turnbuckle rod? I see that there is a pin with a nut/cotter pin that holds the clutch pedal to the adjustment/turnbuckle rod. I also see that there is a rather large spring putting tension on the clutch pedal as well. Thank you for any additional info.

its dirt roads to my parents farm and rough as heck, that old Plymouth is heavy with a light suspension and rides real nice. Dad street raced a 48 Plymouth coupe in Seattle in the early 60's. He said he had a hopped up flat six with dual carbs and Fentons (I still have the Fentons) he said that he would catch someone by surprise on occasion when he leaned on that motor! Im putting the Fentons on my P15.

So who were they thinking they could catch in these cars? hopefully they ran an overdrive in them so they could get above 65 for any amount of time.

I ended up cutting slots in the major adjustment anchor bolts on the nut side/ back side of the backing plate. I took out the anchor bolts and put them in a vise and cut the slots. The slots are in the inside and are not visible unless you crawl under the car and look. As far as adjusting the shoes I loosened the anchor bolts and while the drum is on I spin the drum and adjust the anchor bolt/major adjustment/heel with a screw driver from the backside of the backing plate using the slots that I cut with a hacksaw until I have drum stoppage and then back off just a smidge (scientific term) and then I move to the minor adjustment on the same shoe and do the same thing. I then move to the other shoe and do the same thing. Took me about 10 minutes to do one hub assembly. This prevents the taking on/off monkey business of the hub that the factory requires. I know that this will not be proper for a lot of folks but but if it works and is safe then thats good for me. This procedure/tip by the way was given to me by fellow member Sniper who I will gladly give the credit.

So I went ahead and cut the slots for both sides of the rear end and adjusted the drivers side using this method, how simple is that! I had to order some brake shoes for the other side as they had some brake fluid on them and I dont think I could get it off enough to be servicable. I was going to ask if you had switched to DOT 5 brake fluid? If so was it just a simple flush out of the DOT3 and then go with the DOT5 ?